200
Active Member
I will agree with the vent been in would be nice and that they are part of the characteristics of the Defender but the price of good td5 bulkheads was just ridiculous compared to the puma ones so they were sacrificed I'm afraid. Anyways I live in Huddersfield and we only get one day of sunshine a year and I think we've had it already 
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200
Active Member
More neat work mate, well done. Looks super smart. That's good lathe work too, great being able to do it yourself. You've got some gear in your workshop.
Cheers mate
It's all tackle that i've built up over the years. the lathe doesn't see much action now and i can remember the last time i switched my milling machine on. I used to do a bit of model engineering but now have a land Rover so i find a hammer and chisel will suffice for most jobs.
200
Active Member
Thank you kind Sir. I get the bare metal plated as i get it done very cheaply and it just adds protection to the parts really and if you want you can paint straight over it without any special primers or paints plus i like it.
Anyways did a test fit of the rear tub and doors today, it took a bit of persuasion to fit nicely but i'm well chuffed with the way it has.
200
Active Member
Neither was i that's why i did it before i did any paint work.
It was more the front to back i was bother about as when i put the rear tub on initially it was sat 1/2" in front of the rear tube outriggers but touching the rear crossmember that's what prompted me to fit the seat box and doors and make it all fit properly but i don't think i will need any shims hopefully.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
They're not a bad job to do mate. They can just be a little time consuming.
I found the best way to do it for me was to.
Bolt the rear tub solid to the rear crossmember (As their is no movement there) Unless you have a td5 crossmember and adjustable rail which gives you a little more.
That gives you a fixed point to work off, and shim the bulkhead to suit with m12 washers behind the front outriggers.
Shim until you have a reasonable door gap on both sides. (You may have a different amount of packers behind each outrigger, but not to worry, mine had 2 on one side and non on the other)
Don't worry if the gap isn't even all the way up the door as it's the angle that will sort that. Which is the little brackets that bolt to the chassis and the footwell's.
Bolt to the chassis and put spacers in under the footwell to alter angle as needed, and again it may have a different amount from side to side.
Then last off if you can't get it the angle perfect with packers (i.e one is too much and one less in not enough) have a jiggle on the door as theirs a fair amount of movement in the hinges, and you should get it good then.
As I say it's not difficult, but can be time consuming and a fair bit of back and forth to get it 100%.
The first one I did I f*cked about for hours with and it still wasn't 100%.
The last 2 I did went nice and easy and done in no time at all.
Thanks Aaron that all makes sense. Great description. Do you use a tape measure to set the bulkhead in place for the correct door gap? At what point do you put the door on? I should image the bulkhead would be a nightmare to set up with a door hanging off it. Or do you put them on and off, that would be time consuming.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Thanks Aaron that all makes sense. Great description. Do you use a tape measure to set the bulkhead in place for the correct door gap? At what point do you put the door on? I should image the bulkhead would be a nightmare to set up with a door hanging off it. Or do you put them on and off, that would be time consuming.
Was hoping it made sense and wasn't just a big ramble
You could use a tape measure, but I prefer to fit the door I'm going to be using so you know it's going to be right when you're finished.
I hang the doors straight away, then you can see how far off the tub you are.
I just stick a jack under the bulkhead mounting pillar to take the weight so it can't drop, knock bolt out and slide washers in and re-tighten bolt.
Check and repeat until satisfactory. Just do one side at a time.
Was hoping it made sense and wasn't just a big ramble
You could use a tape measure, but I prefer to fit the door I'm going to be using so you know it's going to be right when you're finished.
I hang the doors straight away, then you can see how far off the tub you are.
I just stick a jack under the bulkhead mounting pillar to take the weight so it can't drop, knock bolt out and slide washers in and re-tighten bolt.
Check and repeat until satisfactory. Just do one side at a time.
Makes perfect sense, mate. Got a clear picture in my head. It's knowing the little details that speed things up, so that's perfect. During this project I never get as much done in a day as I think I will at the start. I think it's all down to thinking/planning time. (and talking to neighbours) The next one would be faster. Cheers, mate.
Well, clouds breaking and sun is coming out, so back to the tub
