quite prob would be in **** , but if fault that bad and you choose to drive it after being told then you deserve what you get . I have refused to let cars out with dangerouse faults (exept on susp. tow) they dont like it but my consience is clear
 
By law i think your car is meant to be able to pass an MOT at any time. If you know about a fault you should repair it asap.

With temp mine sit's at half way once up to temp
 
What he means is you can present in four weeks early, so if it passes you get the twelve months from the date the old one expires! ie twelve months four weeks! ( not thirteen months ) but cos you did it four weeks early its not really any extra?!?! It's just a bit of flexibility to remove last minute panic and not loose days!


DD
 
all good info from all angles here.

it's my first mot For a 4x4 and getting use to and enjoy learning as I go about each fix and normal running knowledge. I didn't know about pre checks just went by dates like the tax renewal. I initially had a fix list and thought of priority fixes just to get through like emissions and tyres/breaks/lights the usual. Being a 4x4 I didn't want to miss anything technical great read guys.
 
It failed.. Any help or advise would be very much appreciated

Fog light in dash not working (but it was earlyer in the day)
Offside relay rod Drag link end ball joint has excessive play.
front brake pads both side less than 1.5m thick.
both rear rust 30cm from body mounts

NO ADVISORY'S
 
It failed.. Any help or advise would be very much appreciated

The best bet is to start a new thread with exactly the same content. :D

Failing that............
  • Fog light in dash not working (but it was earlyer in the day) - Bulb?
  • Offside relay rod Drag link end ball joint has excessive play - Replace for a tenner.
  • Front brake pads both side less than 1.5m thick - Replace pads and discs for £85.20 (I've just ordered Paddock performance slotted and drilled brake discs & EBC extra duty 6000 series Green Stuff brake pads yesterday). To pay £400 would be mad. :D
  • Both rear rust 30cm from body mounts - Learn to weld. It'll save you ££££s over the next few years.
None of this is difficult.
 
The best bet is to start a new thread with exactly the same content. :D


Failing that............
  • Fog light in dash not working (but it was earlyer in the day) - Bulb?
  • Offside relay rod Drag link end ball joint has excessive play - Replace for a tenner.
  • Front brake pads both side less than 1.5m thick - Replace pads and discs for £85.20 (I've just ordered Paddock performance slotted and drilled brake discs & EBC extra duty 6000 series Green Stuff brake pads yesterday). To pay £400 would be mad. :D
  • Both rear rust 30cm from body mounts - Learn to weld. It'll save you ££££s over the next few years.
None of this is difficult.

Thank you auf

Thats the way foward i think. I didnt want to waste time and money doing the wrong thing. Its the welding bit that would be the problem
the previous owner paid the 400 notes illd rather learn myself
cheers again
 
My disco needs both front inner arches doing. Got 3 weeks off over Christmas so will do it then. Ball ache of a job but being a fabricator welder isn't much of an issue. :D Defiantly worth learning to weld if u own a disco!!!
 
My disco needs both front inner arches doing. Got 3 weeks off over Christmas so will do it then. Ball ache of a job but being a fabricator welder isn't much of an issue. :D Defiantly worth learning to weld if u own a disco!!!

I thought they would of mentioned the front more so.
I would love to learn. I'm looking around for welders and parts/kits I would need. The lack of space doesn't help as I have no driveway yet. So every repair is in the street.
 
An introduction to welding course is £596 for part time over 30 weeks
I've found a number so ill ring and see if they want something to practice on .
 
I thought they would of mentioned the front more so.
I would love to learn. I'm looking around for welders and parts/kits I would need. The lack of space doesn't help as I have no driveway yet. So every repair is in the street.

For some reason the previous owner of mine waxoyled the lot very keenly but decided to leave front arches. Everywhere else is as solid as a rock n front arches are goosed. Some people baffle me. Why not do the lot?!? Bell end!
 
U can get those 'easy-on' arches but all they do is sit over original arch. U just cut rusted parts away. Rust proof it then place new arch section over the old and stitch weld it in place. ****e really. I've got a load of mild steel plate there. Ill cut rusted bits out and fab up replacements out of that and fully weld in. Be as good as new.
 

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