NikTheGeek

NikTheGeek

New Member
Not a good week. Burst radiator, now failed it's MOT on:

1. Wheel bearing rough
2. Drag link end ball joint - excessive play
3. Track rod end ball joint excessive play

MOT'd at LR Parts in Liverpool, who my Landy owing friends use and recommend and they said you can't get just the bearings for the P38 and you have to change the whole hub - something about not being able to remove the wheel studs I think they said. But you clearly can get them, both Timkin from Island 4x4 and also from Britpart.

Is there a reason they would recommend the whole hub? They have a big garage so I assume they have a bearing press.

Out of that list, what is a DIY job I can do at home and what should I leave the garage to do? I've never done any of the above, but I guess I could replace a full hub assembly myself (as I've had it off to do axle seals), but not a bearing as I have no press...

tnx

Nik
 
Trying to press the original bearing it requires tremendous force (20 ton plus have been reported)...also the risk of damaging the hub when pressing out and pressing in .... safer just to replace the whole hub assembly.

Track Rod and Drag link are simple pimple to do at home for the DIY'er - hub assembly is relatively easy, aslong as you are competent with a spanner....
 
As Saint V8 says, you need a press and there is risk of damage, which is why most garages want to replace whole hub (cos your paying). Better to buy the whole hub/bearing and diy.
 
hi nik , just had both of mine done on font end cost £148 .00 each side for bearing repair kit from britpart plus 2and half hours labour total cost 425.00 ,and perfect job at that cheers for now mozz
 
I'm getting quoted £130 labour to do the lot. Which I could save if I did it myself. But if I did, I'd have to pay for a retest and a drive to and from Liverpool. So I save about £80 I reckon by DIYing it. In which case, I may as well let them have all the hassle and get a car back with a 12 month MOT and working.

It wasn't a wasted question, as I have an advisory on the 2 rear wheel bearings!!!!! So I'll do those myself later.

tnx!

Nik
 
I've done the bearings on my Transit which is also supposed to need a 20 tonne press. It was possible to cut the bearings out.
To re-fit, I put the bearings in the deep freeze overnight and then the hub assembly in the oven. The bearings then pressed in quite easily using a large bench vice. Not sure if this could be done on the P38 though.
 
Track rod ends simple job with a splitter tool, but have to ensure you set the new one in at the same length as the old one or you could upset the tracking.
For now at least it looks like you may as well pay the garage and get a full 12 months ticket with zero hassle, but its always worth asking the question on here first to help on the decision and get advice :)
 
Datatek said:
I've done the bearings on my Transit which is also supposed to need a 20 tonne press. It was possible to cut the bearings out.
To re-fit, I put the bearings in the deep freeze overnight and then the hub assembly in the oven. The bearings then pressed in quite easily using a large bench vice. Not sure if this could be done on the P38 though.
Click to expand...

Oven gloves required of course.:D
 
I have a press and wheel bearings are a piece of **** to change. If you haven't got a press they aren't. Nothing is difficult if you have the correct tools.
 
Unless the bearings are pretty well shot and showing movement it is pretty difficult to detect roughness on a live axle. Think someone maybe having the **** taken here.
 
kevwill said:
They will make a rumbling/grating noise when shot to pieces.
Click to expand...

I do have a rumble (that sounds like very knobbly tyres) BUT its an oscillating one (is that the right term?). It only sounds at one point of the transmission rotation. So the wavelength gets shorter the faster I go until at 70 it is virtually constant. But at crawling speeds its only once per second or so.

In fact, a much better way to explain it would be that it sounds like something is rubbing as the wheels turn. But nothing is.

It gets louder as I turn left or right.

Eitherway, the bearing whine is now as loud as the rumble on that video :)
 
NikTheGeek said:
I will check (for play), but I've been having a rumble for months that has now turned in to a whine. I posted this ages ago, have a listen

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1HYyy7j760

I thought it was the tyres but I've changed those...

Nik
Click to expand...

Fair do's. All i am saying is they have to be pretty shot to pick up roughness on a live axle. You can hear a worn bearing long before you get any play in it, when the races start to pit and break up. Rather like your noise. All four at the same time is pretty unusual.
 
wammers said:
Fair do's. All i am saying is they have to be pretty shot to pick up roughness on a live axle. You can hear a worn bearing long before you get any play in it, when the races start to pit and break up. Rather like your noise. All four at the same time is pretty unusual.
Click to expand...

Bizarrely, 3

Front left is a fail
Both rears are advisorys.

Nothing at all wrong with front right. So all I can assume is it's already been done at some point!! :)
 
Hope your ball joints were not the fixed end otherwise you need new bars like me they are cheap tho gl the reason the wheel beseings are tight sometimes is due to the corrosion and rust bonding them in .
 
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