mrnice

mrnice

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Hi I finally got round to fitting my spider immobiliser bypass unit today part number ANR4956 as Ive been experiencing an intermittent fault for quite some time and I think its becoming more frequent, to the stage im getting worried one day she may well not start.

So I bit the bullet and fitted it, and tbh it was really easy and done in less than 5 mins.

The only problem is it doesnt seem to have done anything, the light still comes on and imobilises the vehicle intermittently for anywhere between 2 - 20 secs.

So I need some help, what the bloody hell to do next?

I know nothing of electrics so please bear with me.

By the way if this helps: I hold the fob as close to the reciever as poss and always try to warm it up a little in case its the battery but im really not too sure what to do now. I thought if the bypass unit was in place the immobiliser would not kick in, does it just bypass the spider unit? Ive tried unplugging the bypass unit and not plugging it back into the spider but obviously then she doesnt turn over.

Any help much appreciated.
 
Some thing like this AMR4956 IMMOBILISER CENTRE CONSOLE LOOM | Discovery 1 1989-1998: Accessories: Interior | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

Well mrnice the loom does bypass the 'spider' ie. remove the plug from the spider and plug into the bypass loom so leaving just a box, therefore you will only need your fob for the central locking as you engine should now be mobilised permanently.

Why it doesn't work I don't know perhapes an iffy connection. The red led will flash as it's stiil part of the alarm.
 
cheers 'cool. thats the fella, yeah ive unplugged the spider and plugged the bypass unit in but still the imob light flashes intermittently and she doesnt start, if I simply unplug the spider and not plug in the "bypass unit" then when I turn the ignition nothing happens (no engine turnover no imob light no clicking relays etc) which is to be expected. If ive bypassed the immobiliser why is it still coming on?

I was under the impression that once fitting the bypass unit all my imob problems would simply disapear and one of these would appear on my face :D

Instead its looking a bit like this:confused:

Do you think its worth buying another one just in case (are there perhaps one for the TDI and one for the V8?), there doesnt seem much to go wrong on it tbh its only a plug with a few wires in it.
 
Same impression here, the bypass will be suitable for both engines it's just the outputs from the spider go to different places on the engine.
If you have the spider have a look in side there's a method of solding wires inside to bypass it.... there's a link around on how to do it.
I know it's just wires but... terminations have been known to be done wrong... i've done it.
Hopefully someone who has done it will be along soon with the answer.
 
cheers buddy, unfortunately the spider is still behind the radio (ive read up on the re soldering but my logic was test the bypass unit and if it worked then consider sorting the spider) im just really confused as to why the imob still comes on when Ive apparently bypassed it.
 
does anyone know the whereabouts of the immobiliser on my 98 disco I have all my dash stripped out and there is still no clues help///.

Hammerhead.
 
Some later D1s don't have the immobiliser ECU (spider) behind the dash they have a different system fitted.
 
The Discovery 300Tdi Auto vehicles built for some markets (UK market is one) had EDC = Electronic Diesel Control, and these vehicles do not have a spider unit fitted so check this before you pull the dash out! Immobilisation in EDC engines is via the engine ECU - totally different system, totally different problems - and the above info does not apply.

I am told some manual vehicles also had EDC but have never seen one. Not all automatics have EDC - ROW export spec vehicles had the mechanical injector pump as late as 97MY at least.

EDC engines are identifiable by a load of electrical cr&p on the injector pump, the purpose of which is to increase the 111bhp to 120bhp for auto vehicles to compensate for some of the losses in the transmission.

in 1997 or 1998 land rover built the engine immobilizer circuit into the alarm module Z163 and used a transistor instead of a relay. It is behind the dash trim under the glove box. It has 2 connectors C225 and C274. If you solder a jumper between pins 10 and 11 the truck will start.
 
Last edited:
Jonnyb1990 said:
The Discovery 300Tdi Auto vehicles built for some markets (UK market is one) had EDC = Electronic Diesel Control, and these vehicles do not have a spider unit fitted so check this before you pull the dash out! Immobilisation in EDC engines is via the engine ECU - totally different system, totally different problems - and the above info does not apply.

I am told some manual vehicles also had EDC but have never seen one. Not all automatics have EDC - ROW export spec vehicles had the mechanical injector pump as late as 97MY at least.

EDC engines are identifiable by a load of electrical cr&p on the injector pump, the purpose of which is to increase the 111bhp to 120bhp for auto vehicles to compensate for some of the losses in the transmission.

in 1997 or 1998 land rover built the engine immobilizer circuit into the alarm module Z163 and used a transistor instead of a relay. It is behind the dash trim under the glove box. It has 2 connectors C225 and C274. If you solder a jumper between pins 10 and 11 the truck will start.
Click to expand...
 
Hi I have a 96 300 TDi which should have the immobiliser spider behind the dash. Spent a good few hours dismantling and reinstalling for nought because it does not have this module behind the dash. I see you mention 97 onwards having this combined in the alarm module z163 but I must assume my 96 had this fitted in a very early option. Having established this I am now finding it difficult to determine which module under the glove box is actually the z163. Is it the box just under the window lift ecu? If not can you help me identify it. Also I was trying to fix the spider unit because I am getting the no start issue quite frequently so can I also ask if your fix I.e. Bridging terminals 9 & 10 does fix this? Be very grateful for some feedback, Dave, Bournemouth
 
As far as I am aware the spider is not the immobiliser as such - it is a bunch of relays controlled by the anti theft unit under the glove box. When you press the unlock button on your remote it tells the anti theft unit to swicth the relays in the spider unit. that then mobilises the car.
You need to fit the spider bypass and then jump the anti theft unit.(Yes under the window ecu - green in colour with 2 7mm nuts holding it on)
Green box below the glove box with two multi plugs going into it.
Pull the smallest plug(the one nearest to you. The alarm may go off so pull the sounder plug under the bonnet or disconnect the battery.
Look very closely at the plug and you will find very small numbers - now take a paper clip or house mains cable and poke each end in each to connect 10 and 11 together. You car should now start but you will have no central locking.
If you want central locking then you need to join the wires of ten and eleven and plug the plug back in.
You will now have the led on dash and red key symbol flashing all the time(Worse problems to have now it starts!)

I've done all of the above and am looking to buy an aftermarket remote central locking kit off ebay so I can ditch the horrid green box forever!!!!!!
I'll try and post when I get round to it
 
Or you can find somebody with hawkeye or similar to disable the immobiliser then everything will work OK except immobilisation, cheaper and easyer tha bodging things
 
currymunster said:
As far as I am aware the spider is not the immobiliser as such - it is a bunch of relays controlled by the anti theft unit under the glove box. When you press the unlock button on your remote it tells the anti theft unit to swicth the relays in the spider unit. that then mobilises the car.
You need to fit the spider bypass and then jump the anti theft unit.(Yes under the window ecu - green in colour with 2 7mm nuts holding it on)
Green box below the glove box with two multi plugs going into it.
Pull the smallest plug(the one nearest to you. The alarm may go off so pull the sounder plug under the bonnet or disconnect the battery.
Look very closely at the plug and you will find very small numbers - now take a paper clip or house mains cable and poke each end in each to connect 10 and 11 together. You car should now start but you will have no central locking.
If you want central locking then you need to join the wires of ten and eleven and plug the plug back in.
You will now have the led on dash and red key symbol flashing all the time(Worse problems to have now it starts!)

I've done all of the above and am looking to buy an aftermarket remote central locking kit off ebay so I can ditch the horrid green box forever!!!!!!
I'll try and post when I get round to it
Click to expand...
 
sierrafery said:
Or you can find somebody with hawkeye or similar to disable the immobiliser then everything will work OK except immobilisation, cheaper and easyer tha bodging things
Click to expand...

I didn't realise hawkeye would do just an immobilser cancel or on a 95 300tdi?
Great if they can! :)
 
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