Dazlander - I was aware of how to remove the rear part, but driving a pin out of a UJ is not an easy job, specially when you dont have gravity on your side. I have had my prop off and on since 2001, I could have the prob remove the whole prop and refit quicker than it takes to drive out stubborn pins. If you come up with a quick release mech on the UJ Im all ears.
 
RENRUT said:
scuse me for being fick but what are the advantages of going mondo?
Click to expand...

The big advantage is felt by your insurer, they don't pay out when you write your car off in undisclosed mondo mode.
I imagine this has been mentioned in the previous 15 pages.
 
Northern Irelander said:
Dazlander - I was aware of how to remove the rear part, but driving a pin out of a UJ is not an easy job, specially when you dont have gravity on your side. I have had my prop off and on since 2001, I could have the prob remove the whole prop and refit quicker than it takes to drive out stubborn pins. If you come up with a quick release mech on the UJ Im all ears.
Click to expand...

you are NOT removing any pins in the UJ - the bolt holding it in is after the UJ and bolts into the vcu - the UJ comes off complete with the prop - stick yer head underneath and you'll see the bolt inbetween the UJ and vcu. Did a mates at work today over the pit - took all of 15 mins:)

page 8.7 pic 7.10 in the Heinz Manwell :D
 
Dazlander - sorry my error, im with u now mate, im scrolling down through the posts using a mobile phone, I jumped to point 6 and just glanced at it. I will give you that one, thats worth a beer token, only do I carry a 10, 15 and 17mm rachet spanner with torx sockets, or my 4lb club hammer. Again if we could get a quick release mech on it, that would be the way to go.
 
using an iPhone here I don't think any quick release would take the torque while offroad. Could probably get this down to 15 mins if I could jack it up quick enough:D although if you don't mind sliding under it whilst on the floor then jacking is not needed but you will need to roll it a bit to get at all bolts on the rear flange.
 
Northern Irelander said:
Dazlander - sorry my error, im with u now mate, im scrolling down through the posts using a mobile phone, I jumped to point 6 and just glanced at it. I will give you that one, thats worth a beer token, only do I carry a 10, 15 and 17mm rachet spanner with torx sockets, or my 4lb club hammer. Again if we could get a quick release mech on it, that would be the way to go.
Click to expand...

We discussed, a year or so ago, the possibility of using a dog clutch, either manual (lever) or preferably electrical, but it was considered too complicated to achieve.
Slitties achieve the 2/4wd with an electric clutch as part of the rear diff.

read http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f3/current-controller-38656.html
 
what about using a series PTO and building some means of inserting it in yer rear prop. yer PTO comes with dog clutch and would only need a short shaft fitted and some kinda housing made up fer the entry side of it, which you could make so as it would double up as the mounting bracket fer it.?
 
'building some means of inserting it in yer rear prop'

Anyone know the rpm of the prop shaft?
 
JonFre said:
'building some means of inserting it in yer rear prop'

Anyone know the rpm of the prop shaft?
Click to expand...

The max rpm of a prop shaft is the engine revs in the top gear you have, plus whatever extra if your top gear is actually "overdriven".

By and large, think engine speed and you won't be far away.

CharlesY
 
JonFre said:
'building some means of inserting it in yer rear prop'

Anyone know the rpm of the prop shaft?
Click to expand...
don't see why that would be a factor.

yer series PTO comes on the back of the gear box before the T/box reduction so it actually can spin faster that a series rear prop.
it wint take much to couple it up to the existing prop. a new output shaft and a shortened prop. then you could perhaps use a chopped down series T/box casing to mount it in place.
 
slob said:
don't see why that would be a factor.

yer series PTO comes on the back of the gear box before the T/box reduction so it actually can spin faster that a series rear prop.
it wint take much to couple it up to the existing prop. a new output shaft and a shortened prop. then you could perhaps use a chopped down series T/box casing to mount it in place.
Click to expand...

Makes the existing transmission sound quite simple.
 
slob said:
about as simple as a piece of cheese but less useful
Click to expand...

They have all the clever ideas but none of the depth of understanding to be able to see why not!

I would like to see him try that transfer box trick - working with his own hands and tools.

A big hammer and a Black & Decker maybe?

CharlesY
 
SUCCESS!! did the mondo thing it took less than an hour start to finish, what a difference in the way the g/l drives now, best advice on the forum as yet, thanks chums, keith!
 
now the complete prop shaft is off i`ve noticed that the 2 mountings either side of v/c are kaput, are they difficult to replace? i see they are £15 each, but are they a diy job?
 
£15 ? Bloody hell, my local LR dealer ripped me off, charged €88 each (£55). :[
They're not a very difficult job, provided you've a solid bench and vice to grip the vc with.
 
Pattern are about £15-20, OEM are around £40-50 and Genuine Parts are ££££££!

Cheers

Blippie
 
Come on Ming get the extra terrestrial cerebral juices flowing, the answer must lie within the function of the VCU as the main link between the gearbox/IRD output and rear axle differential. Get yer VCU on the coffee table whilst Mrs Ming is out and consider what can be done to achieve selectable drive through the unit from the drivers seat. D..
 
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