I'm interested in this thread as I recently got one of these and have still to wire it in. I served my time in engineering with welding as part of my trade and never gave much thought to the regulator and torch set up to be honest.
 
I have the Clarke 151EN gas/no gas.
Converted it to Eurotorch a while ago using this ebay kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIG-EURO...AS-SOLENOID-/113382356645?hash=item1a661d76a5 which comes with a gas solenoid. The instructions were very good.
Should have done it a LONG time ago. No idea whether it would still work with no-gas flux cored wire & TBH don't care - a bit of creativity with cardboard provides a good windshield.
Changed the regulator to a proper one & use it with Argoshield bottle from BOC as I claim it back through my business & it's MUCH better than CO2.

ETA. Looks like the gas solenoids are available on their own on ebay & hopefully would include another good 'how to'. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAS-SOLE...cc174ff4a:m:mFvCnGlWP6a-FDg6pqGfUXg:rk:4:pf:0
Links now expired.
Need a copy of the fitting instructions and a gas solenoid.
 
I'm paranoid about gas loss (that crap's expensive!!) I check & double-check that I have shut the main valve off on the bottle.
I used to chew through bottles like it was going out of fashion because the advice written everywhere is run at 12LPM.
My mate said to me, "Why trust those w4nkers? You are the one doing the welding, turn it down until it fails to shield, then turn it up a tiny bit."
I did and I find if I keep the work out of any gusts I can weld perfectly well on 5LPM. Has saved me a lot so far.
 
CEME 5541 or CEME5536 solenoid valve 24v for Clarke 160.

Still not sure how to get power to the Euro torch and how to mount the Euro socket.
 
I think yu missed the point, @Dippypud .
1) The 5541 has a chassis mounting BSP thread at one end.

2) The Clarke Migs have an angled front panel.
3) there is no way the power crimp fitting can be attached to the EUro socket as it is all inside a plastic housing.
 
upload_2019-6-30_7-32-23.png
 
I think yu missed the point, @Dippypud .
1) The 5541 has a chassis mounting BSP thread at one end.

2) The Clarke Migs have an angled front panel.
3) there is no way the power crimp fitting can be attached to the EUro socket as it is all inside a plastic housing.

The post # 32 shows a mounting for the sloped front panel ...

Have a read through see if the mod is doable for you ....
 
The post # 32 shows a mounting for the sloped front panel ...

Have a read through see if the mod is doable for you ....
I saw that. Am in the process of making the bracket, but with sidewalls to stop ingress of grinding dust.
Not sure why Clarke, in their wisdom, use 70A cable on a 160A welder, but I assume that because of welding cycles, it doesn’t need to be bigger.
Need to get a suitable ring terminal to fit the Euro connector shaft too.
 
I saw that. Am in the process of making the bracket, but with sidewalls to stop ingress of grinding dust.
Not sure why Clarke, in their wisdom, use 70A cable on a 160A welder, but I assume that because of welding cycles, it doesn’t need to be bigger.
Need to get a suitable ring terminal to fit the Euro connector shaft too.

Yeah, some of those are a pain ...you're ok with sourcing the ring terminal ?
 
Yeah, some of those are a pain ...you're ok with sourcing the ring terminal ?
Not sure at the mo. Will need to check sizes.
Am still trying to source solenoid too. Not sure why they use a 240v one as the switched motor power is 24v. Maybe they are doing it remotely, but can’t see that on the wiring diagram. Seems a bit weird to me.
 
Front bracket made and fitted. Need to wire it up now and (still) get 24v chassis mounting solenoid.
Will, most likely, operate motor and solenoid thru a relay, to take load off from torch.
Pics to follow.
 
Or an alternative to the excellent advice in all previous posts.....buy a land rover which doesn't require welding......'takes cover :D'
 

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