Datatek
Well-Known Member
With my method it's possible to make an educated guess and with practice get the modulation very close at the first attempt.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I cannot disagree with that, but with the modulation so far out and it being an easy fix, it's worth doing that first. I'm not suggesting the chains should be ignored. Don't forget the FIP was set like it is by a "professional mechanic"Until they part company or jump a tooth.if the chains are stretched you can bet the sprockets are worn,Your choice of course if it's still making a rattling after you've done the modulation.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I do wonder how professional he really was,not very it seems.I cannot disagree with that, but with the modulation so far out and it being an easy fix, it's worth doing that first. I'm not suggesting the chains should be ignored. Don't forget the FIP was set like it is by a "professional mechanic"
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Par for the course in my experience.I do wonder how professional he really was,not very it seems.
I have used the same method myself in the past but both you and I started from a known starting point. I have no idea where he's starting from, only that wherever it is it isn't right. I'd put everything back to spec and then look for what isn't right. Once idling right he can then tap the pinp towards the engine until modulation comes down to 50%.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I suppose I could do that as well if my modulation is out,I'll check when the weather improves,, didn't have the Nanocom when I changed my chains, guides and sprockets.
I suppose I could do that as well if my modulation is out,I'll check when the weather improves,, didn't have the Nanocom when I changed my chains, guides and sprockets.
I think you have to reset it after 10k miles?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Christ that's another 10 years the milage I've been doing. 902 miles between MOT's last year.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Since the modulation being way out can affect idling I disagree with you. The OP is starting from a known point, the engine runs and the modulation is 93%, thus it is easy to calculate how far to move the FIP rather using your hit and miss guesswork method. In any case the idle figure is only 20rpm above the maximum figure so is not likely to make a big difference.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Not being funny Keith but how can one evaluate your method if you won't disclose it?
I marked up the pump, drew a guage with a Sharpie on the bit behind and then slackened the pump and tapped it ever so gently toward the engine until the modulation went to 50%. Did it with a dial guage when I replaced the FIP though.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
That seems the logical way.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I don't need you to evaluate it, I have passed it on to others who have found it satisfactory.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
So after doing the timing with the DTI have you checked it with Nanocom?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Read my post I said One not Me, if your method is so good don't hide your light under a bushel.spread the word.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I gave up posting many things as despite fact and figures a certain Mr Walmsley always saw fit to rubbish everything.Read my post I said One not Me, if your method is so good don't hide your light under a bushel.spread the word.
The information is available to almost anyone that wants it without having to go to the trouble of searching the archive.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Well Wammers isn't here anymore to comment but perhaps he saw something in your method that didn't sit well with him.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
If he didn’t value your input he never would have read it.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
He read it with the sole purpose of rubbishing it.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Nothing that diverged from his opinion sat well with him even if supported by facts and figures.
