S

scallaghan87

New Member
thinking of taking the front shaft off my 300tdi 90 making it RWD to see if its my front diff that is making a god awfull growl under acceleration. I know this issue has been talked about before. Anyhow, would doing this harm my transfer box or rear diff driving it with the front shaft off for a prolonged period of time?
 
Won't do your handling a helluva lot of good, but running with the diff locked and the front propshaft off should not be a huge deal for determining what's wrong.

it does make 'em squirrelly in the wet/snow, so I wouldn;t leave it that way.

ajr
 
Ran my 110 like that for a few days while I sorted the front prop out, didn't notice the difference to be honest
 
mrchurchill109 said:
Won't do your handling a helluva lot of good, but running with the diff locked and the front propshaft off should not be a huge deal for determining what's wrong.

it does make 'em squirrelly in the wet/snow, so I wouldn;t leave it that way.

ajr
Click to expand...

It is what you are used to been driving rear wheel drive all my life............. Until I engage lock outs and put diff in 4 wheel high. Nice thing about lock outs is I can get 2 wheel low if needed:D

I like rear wheel drive better than front wheel drive
 
landowner said:
Ran my 110 like that for a few days while I sorted the front prop out, didn't notice the difference to be honest
Click to expand...

The 20" extra in wheelbase would help keep it abit settled though unless its very slippery.

I took mine off when trying to track down a vibration a few weeks ago too and other than being pretty good fun in the field one evening, there was no difference on the road really. Would actually love if you could just select RWD rather than full time 4WD when its not needed.

Took the rear one off before when I was away for a weekend as the UJ started to fail. Done about 200 miles with just the front prop then and must say, that felt horrible. Under acceleration, there was quite abit of torque steer and on anything other than tarmac, it would spin away the front wheels until the cows came home :p


Friends of mine broke a rear diff alright before in a V8 P38 Rangerover that was being scrapped when we took it drifting with the front prop off :eek::D
 
DaveM-sport said:
The 20" extra in wheelbase would help keep it abit settled though unless its very slippery.

I took mine off when trying to track down a vibration a few weeks ago too and other than being pretty good fun in the field one evening, there was no difference on the road really. Would actually love if you could just select RWD rather than full time 4WD when its not needed.

Took the rear one off before when I was away for a weekend as the UJ started to fail. Done about 200 miles with just the front prop then and must say, that felt horrible. Under acceleration, there was quite abit of torque steer and on anything other than tarmac, it would spin away the front wheels until the cows came home :p


Friends of mine broke a rear diff alright before in a V8 P38 Rangerover that was being scrapped when we took it drifting with the front prop off :eek::D
Click to expand...

you can have it selectable rwd and 4wd in diff lock
 
Even if you took your front prop shaft your diff will still be turn because itll get drive the wheels so will stll make the noise??
 
It still just has an open center diff when not in diff-lock so it'll put power to either axle no matter what you do. It'll go to pretty much full time front wheel drive if you get stuck with the rear wheels on solid ground and a front wheel in slippy mud or dangling in the air.

My dads old Disco 1 would act abit like a RWD in a field alright if you gave it the beans but that was mostly because the back wheels let go first with persuasion as there was only crap road tyres on it and it was lighter at the rear so had less grip.


Obviously different story if you have an old series or old selectable RWD/4WD LT230 transfer box.

Or buy this kit from Ashcroft
Ashcroft Transmissions - 90/110 LT230 Part Time Kit

That kit would be cool but I think if your worried about fuel economy to go to the lengths of fitting all that for 2wd or want more fun in 2wd than you could in an old scrappy with the front prop off, A Landrover isn't quite what you need :p
Plus... if its for fun, you'll only bust rear shafts and diffs all the time if you got a good bit of power :(


There's jap yokes to rape for that sort of craic :D
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
ive never seeen a rwd selectable lt230 ,have you a link to one
Click to expand...

Think I remember reading somewhere that they were offered as an optional extra for the very early Defenders or even might have been the Series when they came out first. I could be wrong though :eek:
 
I have the FWH on my 90. No selectable centre its only on because I have a rarther aggressive front locker Lock right which is coming out soon
 
DaveM-sport said:
Think I remember reading somewhere that they were offered as an optional extra for the very early Defenders or even might have been the Series when they came out first. I could be wrong though :eek:
Click to expand...

the series had that with lock out hubs for the front. That all changed when defender was made
 
DaveM-sport said:
Think I remember reading somewhere that they were offered as an optional extra for the very early Defenders or even might have been the Series when they came out first. I could be wrong though :eek:
Click to expand...


Early like really really early 110's had selectable 2 or 4 wheel drive not this kit tho
 
Ahh, I knew I had the arse-end of the stick somehow :p
I knew they had FWHs alright but thought you could completely isolate the front props and shafts from power then too via the transfer box


As a matter of interest? Are you going without a locker in the front altogether or going for something else? Was chatting about front lockers that were similar to the lockright for their pajeros but the consensus was it would be too harsh like in your case and something like a Tru-trac or even a selectable locker thats on or off like ARB etc would be better.


I have a Tru-trac for mine to go in when I get a Detroit locker for the rear but still undecided if I'll go with a pair of ARBs instead.
Later would be better and more useful for offroading but the 110 is predominantly for the road
 
Well I have a salisbury rear detroit locker because they really are fit and forget. they have a manner on the road but theyre cheap and pretty good if you can live with their road manners. I want a selectable locker for the front ideally however money, time and what I have laying around means i may just fit an open 4 pin and ashcroft shafts. For now later upgrading to an ashcroft locker.

I will sell my front locker as its far too harsh for road use and its 10 spline. No good for me. Its got to be reliable as the 90 will be my tow motor/recovery motor for the offroader/marshalling.

My 2p worth. I would never and i mean never touch ARB. Seen too many fail at comps driverounds and recovering a rrc at a trial. Ashcroft locker all the way or if not a trutrac.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JoeCoutz
Defender TD5 90 - Play in front Prop Shaft - DON'T WANT TO DRIVE!
Replies
4
Views
766
Brown
Brown
J
New knocking noise on 1986 110
Replies
15
Views
2K
Anaconda
A
F
Landrover 90 Diff problem?
Replies
10
Views
836
Anaconda
A
N
Swivel Ball seal replacement
2 3
Replies
43
Views
4K
Brown
Brown
Military Mobility
Help identifying high pitched whine
Replies
12
Views
1K
lynall
L