KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
I used an old swivel, chopped with a grinder and plopped it the vice great tool! Took a while to get through with the grinder lol
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
+1 for the reversable ratchet......
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
if you gonna put your hand in the cookie jar, might as well put it in right up to the elbow.....So have you decided to strip the hub housing all the way down or are you going with your original plan?
if you are going with your original plan then that kit is overkill. That said spares on a shelf is never bad.
I would also recommend at least a set of bolts for 1 side for brake calipers and swivel ball to axle, and hub nut (if its a staked 1)
If and when you dig in there are always things that come up, if somebody has been in before the nut may have no staking left you can use, If you get stuck and mangle a bolt (we all do
How are you flexi brake pipes cos once you start to flex them outside their normal you may find they need looking at. Have you cleaned your balls off
Personally If you are hesitant at this (at this time) I would be ready to try the split the seal method as you find you cant get bolts off or are mangling to many, I see no reason for it not to work, it will then give you time to get to know it and build confidence. Will also give you insight into why we all own big hammers
You can see how fast a simple job grows arms and legs.
But hey we love em
J
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
its a doddle, seriously its just like this but heavier and more oil, if you can change a wheel you can change a swivel seal...Thanks for all the replies, a few questions:
Haynes manual often references up to 1999 model, or after 1999 model, my TD5 is a 1999 model. Is that referring to 300TDi vs TD5 or is not that simple? Would a TD5 have a 64mm locknut & adjusting nut for example?
If I do take it all to bits, would this kit be sufficient for consumables? https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-swivel-housing-repair-kit-without-housing-with-abs/
PR-90 is on it's way, what else would you recommend I have to hand before I start?
What grease should I get?
I'm fairly competent with basic car maintenance but this is pushing my confidence a little
Cheers
John
PS use the haynes manual for firelighters, download the LR workshop manual for free
Click here
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
With the socket, try it on and feel the fit of it. The quality of the socket makes a difference. I had tired bolts on my brake calipers and the tightest fit was a 13mm quality socket.
Unfortunately my bolts were beyond undoing with a socket. I ended up having to remove mine with one of the nut removal sockets - that was after splitting the caliper with a grinder, applying lots of plusgas, drilling the rear of the bolt and applying heat! Turned into a bit of a job!
Beware of mission creep....
Unfortunately my bolts were beyond undoing with a socket. I ended up having to remove mine with one of the nut removal sockets - that was after splitting the caliper with a grinder, applying lots of plusgas, drilling the rear of the bolt and applying heat! Turned into a bit of a job!
Beware of mission creep....
Looks like you're having fun. I think for people used to working on smaller cars, everything's a bit bigger, a bit rustier and needs a bit more force to get it apart or back together.Well I went for the easy route but the bearings are shot so have to wait for them now. Thanks for all the advice, turns out the most important tool is a big hammer
View attachment 291869
Yes, I find that it's a good idea to replace as many bearings and seals as I can get at whenever I have the Land Rover apart. Then at least you know they've been done and should be OK for a few years.
meego
Well-Known Member
I think your next purchase should be a set of axle stands !!Well I went for the easy route but the bearings are shot so have to wait for them now. Thanks for all the advice, turns out the most important tool is a big hammer
View attachment 291869
If you look closely behind the trolley Jack you will see an axle stand hiding there. Belt and braces
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
Belt and braces is a good option! None of us want our trucks coming down, even if not under it. Even when I use axle stands I leave the jack in position (with the pressure off) just in case.If you look closely behind the trolley Jack you will see an axle stand hiding there. Belt and braces
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
dont foget yer stub axle, while yer there yr old one will be cooked
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Scope creep is bad, scope evolution and innovation is expected.
If you deliver at the end what you expected to at the beginning, you did not do it well!
If you deliver at the end what you expected to at the beginning, you did not do it well!
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
drive shaft might be an idea, you will get used to the triggers broom approach every 10-15 years most of us on here drive 'new cars' that are 20 years old.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
yep i see it you have the widow maker type, careful not to knock that laver its easily done and then there goes your legs.If you look closely behind the trolley Jack you will see an axle stand hiding there. Belt and braces
lol Tubular with cross pins are the way to go!
