Alright. Looking at getting some tools, and keen to hear your recommendations. I have a handful of sets of mostly complete hand tools, and probably no power tools except a cordless drill.
So, power tools, worth the money or not? If so, corded, cordless, pneumatic, which?
I know lots of landy bolts/nuts are really big, hence me not having the 52mm one required to get a hub off, are there any other sizes that are particularly useful?
Thanks!
 
Cordless tools these days are very good, All I would say is dont buy cheap. Lots like the cordless impacts available. A grinder will probably be needed cordless or not.

Some say you need a torque wrench, personally I would say if you are doing engine work yes it's needed, all other stuff can be guesstimated if you have done alot.

Some irwin sockets I would say if you are working on old stuff could come in handy.
If you have 12 point sockets a 6 point set also worth investment. There are a few bigger sizes needed but you just buy them when needed for the job.
Also remember depending on what you get it could be a mix of imperial and metric;).
And dont forget a Digital Multi Meter. Also depending on age of vehicle diagnostic.

The list is endless and could include pullers/ball joint breakers etc etc but often specialist tools can be brought as and when needed. After a few years your tool box will get alot bigger. And you will probably have built a bigger shed to house them too:D.

Halfords range of tools have a good name funnily enough and a pretty good guarantee.

J
 
I got a torque wrench very early on, especially necessary when tightening into ally as so easy to strip a thread. Human nature is to overtighten small sizes and undertighten big ones.;)
My three are one of the dial indicator type which are good for small torques as my next one up, a click to torque job doesn't do the small torques. You can of course get ones that do anything, tiny ones for stuff on motorbikes etc and feck off huge ones for lorries. My biggest one I got off eBay surprisingly to do up hub nuts on an old style Mini.
But one that goes up to the torque necessary to do a hub nut on a Disco would be ferociously expensive, so for that one I used a breaker bar with extension, knowledge of my own body weight, and a bit of maths to tell me where to stand on it.;)
As for socket sets, I think a lot of us just buy a set then buy the individual sockets as you need them, but 6 sided and/or those that act on the sides of the nut rather than the corner are better except that for one or two nuts you do actually need a 12 point, like the caliper (frame?) mounting jobbies on a Disco.
Lots of good advice above and second that re Halfords as the pro set especially is lifetime guarantee.
All good fun!!
Oh and 4 axle stands come in handy as does a feck off big hydraulic jack.
We each have our own favourite tools.
could go on about this for ages!!:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Ive got some hand-me-down tools, Ive got a 3ton jack, many axle stands, and more than one torque wrench. Ive basically got most things, other than a breaker bar, and anything powered. Ohh and a welder. Im thinking of buying a really cheap rotten old broken discovery, just to dump in the field and pull it to bits, and see how much I can put back together, since Im currently relying on mine. Also maybe practice welding, if I decide to get a welder (almost certainly a stick welder, agree?)
So really, power tools, are they needed? If not, are they worth getting?
Thanks!
.
 
Stick welder will not weld bodywork any sense, most go for MIG for that.
As stated, box section.
I don't use one, and even though I have a compressor I don't use a windygun, but lots of people swear by their "duga-duga"s.
(Batt powered impact driver things)
Oh and if you don't have one you might like to get an ornery hand powered impact driver.
 
Only reason I thought stick welder was
A ) gas is expensive
B ) "you can weld through crap" as I was once told (although possibly incorrect?)
I wasnt planning on welding any body panels, given that they dont rust? And all the bits that rust are acceptable to stick weld? Or not?
Read lots of reviews, both good and bad, about Ryobi, anyone got any experience? I like the idea of saving money buy not having to buy a bunch of batteries I dont need (although I agree that 2 or may e ever 3 batteries is a very good idea!)
 
But one that goes up to the torque necessary to do a hub nut on a Disco would be ferociously expensive, so for that one I used a breaker bar with extension, knowledge of my own body weight, and a bit of maths to tell me where to stand on it.;)

Did you weigh yourself before you stood on the 2ft line? was that before or after lunch:p:D.

J
 
No.



Yes & Yes.

J
Can't acksherly agree about stick welding. I use it a lot and find it easier than MIG, which I know makes me a candidate for the funny farm. But then I use it to make and mod things for kit cars which have feck off thick chassis and stuff. It is cheap and easily carried around. You just have to keep the rods dry.
Question of taste and experience I suppose.
 
Only reason I thought stick welder was
A ) gas is expensive
B ) "you can weld through crap" as I was once told (although possibly incorrect?)
I wasnt planning on welding any body panels, given that they dont rust? And all the bits that rust are acceptable to stick weld? Or not?
Read lots of reviews, both good and bad, about Ryobi, anyone got any experience? I like the idea of saving money buy not having to buy a bunch of batteries I dont need (although I agree that 2 or may e ever 3 batteries is a very good idea!)
Gas CAN be expensive. For a while I rented a bottle from (whoever) but as i used very little it was stupid, so i got an old pub bottle and used CO2 which isn't ideal, but now Hobbyweld have got a deal which is, as far as i can see cheaper.
Look em up.
If you want a crap weld, then weld through crap. Really not a good idea. That is what the flap wheel etc on your grinder is for.
 
Only reason I thought stick welder was
A ) gas is expensive
B ) "you can weld through crap" as I was once told (although possibly incorrect?)
I wasnt planning on welding any body panels, given that they dont rust? And all the bits that rust are acceptable to stick weld? Or not?
Read lots of reviews, both good and bad, about Ryobi, anyone got any experience? I like the idea of saving money buy not having to buy a bunch of batteries I dont need (although I agree that 2 or may e ever 3 batteries is a very good idea!)

I would say a couple of things here.
If you buy "cheap" you will buy twice.
If you invest now you will beable to do more later with the kit you got.
Many (same makes) use same battery so stick to a brand.

Oh and there's a welding fred here to that may help The Welding Thread for Landy projects | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

J
 
Good tools dont come cheap... I do have a Milwaukee impact, but not the good big one. Still, its much more powerful than the same size Bosch. I always look at used tools as, why are you selling it, is it broken or just crap.
 
Good tools dont come cheap..

So right...I bought a Cevik 130A Inverter stick welder was around 120 euros and got quite good with it till I started on my Rover P6 resto and Oh boy cars are not like gates.. so after a lot of research and asking questions bought an Italian Telwin 180A synergic mig cost around 900 euros including 2 5k drums of wire plus guages and a large argon mix bottle...the difference is bloody amazing I can plug weld 0.5mm steel by just setting steel thickness and weld heat and machine does the rest ...money well spent...
 

Similar threads