yep cant move the rotor arm even using the flat blade approach.

Whats your thoughts on running a hacksaw blade down the side of the rotor arm to split the side and free it off. Or am i asking for trouble?
 
nope, there's nothing under there apart from shaft. just watch for swarf heading down into the depths, cos it stands a real chance of interfering with the balance weights.

probably pop a rag around there etc to catch the bits, but yes in principle cutting it off will present no issues :)
 
btw, pull harder!

even a bit of gentle levering between the reluctor and the rotor arm has been known to work in past.

if the rotor arm has lucas stamped on it you REALLY do not want to be cutting it up!!!
 
Now its through the M.O.T huraah ! ill run it on gas and gentle rebuild the petrol system. Give's me more time to tinker on those lonely winter nights in warrington.

Just a thought, if you're going to be in Warrington why don't you pop over, it's less than an hour from Warrington I have a few bits and pieces that might help if you can get the motor over here.
 
Thanks for that i will take you up on that, im in warrington monday to thursday night usually then head back down south on thursday nights. i could pop over one night after work.

On the vehicle front i have replaced the ignition pickup amplifier and it makes a world of difference on petrol and gas. The timing light shows consistent strong sparking now compared to the inconsistency of the previous amp.

Ill being doing the front brake disc and pads this weekend for the upgraded type so i can stop on the motorway instead of the front left skidding and the front right not really doing much at all.

Generally the more i do with it the better it gets now im starting to understand it more. Im pretty sure i have some cam follower issues probably down to the service history (or lack of). noisy !

There are lots of other small issues and improvements i can make to get it up to a resonably reliable standard.
 
Thanks for that i will take you up on that, im in warrington monday to thursday night usually then head back down south on thursday nights. i could pop over one night after work.

On the vehicle front i have replaced the ignition pickup amplifier and it makes a world of difference on petrol and gas. The timing light shows consistent strong sparking now compared to the inconsistency of the previous amp.

No worries, drop me a PM and we'll see if we can get something organised.

Glad you got ignition in better shape, makes things a bit easier. Have you solved the blowing fuse issue? What air flow meter does yours have - I'm guessing 5AM?
 
Ok ,will do.

I'm waiting for lrparts to tell me what they found with the returned maf so no ,not solved the fuse issue yet . My first priority is the brakes , I found the front right disk is fubar and the front left locks up easily , turns out the primary circuit has failed suggesting hydraulic failure at the rear put a bottle of fluid in on the way home tonight .

I bought new drilled and groves disks and green stuff pads , also changing gear box oil and filter this weekend .

On a positive note the gas economy is great gets me up and down the motorway comfortably
.
 
I suspect the problem is the ECU. Have a look at pins 2, 11 and 13 on the ECU and follow the circuits. The MAF and fuel injectors look common. The injectors are earth switched. If there is an earth fault in the ECU the fuse would blow? MAF as cause for short may be a red herring.

Might be worth pulling main plug off ECU and checking for earth on the pins and the plug and see if you get a ground where there shouldn't be one. Have you opened the loom and checked for damaged wires? HTH
 
Ive got a copy of the rover guage , lead and laptop ready to start doing some more investogation on teh ECU and running conditions ect. Slightly embarressingly i cant find the interogation port not where is expected it to be and i cant find any reference in teh manual.

dont laugh ! advice please
 
Ive got a copy of the rover guage , lead and laptop ready to start doing some more investogation on teh ECU and running conditions ect. Slightly embarressingly i cant find the interogation port not where is expected it to be and i cant find any reference in teh manual.

dont laugh ! advice please

I don't know for sure on a Disco but on an RRC the diagnostic plug is under the seat near the ECU, it is a white plug. I can only suggest you trace the loom, the diagnostic plug separates from the other wires, if you can find the tune select resistor and the power feeds for the relays you should (hopefully find the wires going to the diagnostic plug. What I don't know is whether or not the later looms used the same 5 pin TTS plug.
 
ok embarrasing moment over, the connector have a male and female connector together , only reveals itself when you unplug them.

starting to get some interesting readings , will post later but it appears to show no lamda readings and the original maf is working fine.

will do some testing later and put some picks up.
 
ok so i have had a brief look at the readings using the rover gauge , still ealry days but.

It appears the MAF is working ok and reading about 26% linear at tickover, you might not remember but the troubles started with the engine erratically hunting when the M.A.F is plugged in.

While the engine is warming up and the M.A.F plugged in its seems to operate ok. When it gets warm then the engine will start hunting and almost stalling, you cant rev it so its unresponive to the throttle and eventually stalls. Unplug the maf and its fine. plug it back in and off it goes again.

Im assuming only the stepper motor changes could cause this engine hunting so this is leading me to take a look at the stepper motor and see if it is clean and operate's correctly. The fuel pump doesnt appear to be an problem but ill get a fuel gauge a bit later so can discount that.

Interestingly the rover gauge show's no lambda correction factors either short term or long term. Probably a read of the manual will tell me why that is.

So any though on the wild hunting when the M.A.F is plugge in.
 
ok so i have had a brief look at the readings using the rover gauge , still ealry days but.

It appears the MAF is working ok and reading about 26% linear at tickover, you might not remember but the troubles started with the engine erratically hunting when the M.A.F is plugged in.

While the engine is warming up and the M.A.F plugged in its seems to operate ok. When it gets warm then the engine will start hunting and almost stalling, you cant rev it so its unresponive to the throttle and eventually stalls. Unplug the maf and its fine. plug it back in and off it goes again.

Im assuming only the stepper motor changes could cause this engine hunting so this is leading me to take a look at the stepper motor and see if it is clean and operate's correctly. The fuel pump doesnt appear to be an problem but ill get a fuel gauge a bit later so can discount that.

Interestingly the rover gauge show's no lambda correction factors either short term or long term. Probably a read of the manual will tell me why that is.

So any though on the wild hunting when the M.A.F is plugge in.

If MAF is O.K. look at stepper and at temp. thermistor. If that checks out, then get a strobe light on it and see what the ign ition timing is doing - I once had trouble getting mine to idle, turned out it was a stretched timing chain. BTW how did you resolve the fuses blowing?
 
A pic of the diagnostic connector would be handy, just for reference.

My 92 Disco definitely doesn't have one fitted, removed the loom fully yesterday anyway and it's just not there. Pins are available on the ECU plug though so it can be wired in.

When I did a CO test at tickover to setup my MAF I was looking for between 0.5 and 1.0% CO.

I accidentally leant on the MAF plug which caused it to disconnect, and the CO at the exhaust went up to 9.5% ish.

We only noticed there was a problem because it started to smoke, I had a little 2 stroke fuel in it at the time and it was so rich it was smoking off the 2 stroke oil.

SO, the point is, it sounds like it is far too lean on tickover with theAF plugged in.

The RV8 needs a rich tickover, have you checked the exhaust gas?

A combination of a gas tester, strobe light, fuel pressure guage and your diagnostic tool will help you sole this problem!
 
The diagnostic tool show the M.A.F reading in the expected range, the temperatures are fine, the tool alows you to drive the stepper motor directly through its range so ill be removing and see if its operating ok.

I suspect they gave me the wrong M.A.F with different connectors, now i have the diagnositic tool it shows me the old maf is working ok. i suspect the hunting is either the stepper motor or controller but ill test this out when i get the chance.

Front brakes are first on my list of jobs, i have new discs and pads but i suspect when i remove the callipers or try and bleed them ill have the same rusting problems so i might just bite the bullet and put new callipers on anyway.
 

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