Z

zanner64

New Member
Hi guys, posted this a while ago in the wrong section, well it was late and wine was involved. Problem now worse.

2001 2.5 diesel Auto 117000 miles

Regardless of temperature, at tick over it's not running smooth and is juddering when pulling away.

This problem has now progressed over last week so now between the speeds of 50 and 60MPH it can give a judder until that speed has increased beyond 60, then will run smooth under load until speed is achieved and the throttle is backed off slightly when it will slightly judder again.

Every now and again when i get to the end of the motorway run and take my foot off the pedal the amber engine light on dash illuminates for a moment and then there's nothing there when pedal pressed again, pressing pedal a few times will usually get her running again.

Now a while ago i had the tick over problem only and posted this , it was suggested that i change the fuel filter and clean/check the maf. This rectified the problem and harmony was restored.

However, a few weeks ago unusual circumstances led me to run low on fuel to the extent i was running on warning light for some ten miles or so, believe it or not 5 garages had no diesel available as tanker apparently broken down till finally found one.
Filled up with Shell ( usual brew) and since then started with bad tick over and progressed to above problems.

Change fuel filter ( Bosch) No change and getting worse week by week.
Average 25 miles a day, 10 miles motorway and the rest city crawl.
Never supermarket fuel. Always Shell or Bp
Research has suggested fuel pump and horrified at the price.

Does anyone have any ideas on confirming this, or any clues to what it could be,

Similar post this evening was is more pointing to manual problem .
Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks in advance Phil
 
zanner64 said:
Hi guys, posted this a while ago in the wrong section, well it was late and wine was involved. Problem now worse.

2001 2.5 diesel Auto 117000 miles

Regardless of temperature, at tick over it's not running smooth and is juddering when pulling away.

This problem has now progressed over last week so now between the speeds of 50 and 60MPH it can give a judder until that speed has increased beyond 60, then will run smooth under load until speed is achieved and the throttle is backed off slightly when it will slightly judder again.

Every now and again when i get to the end of the motorway run and take my foot off the pedal the amber engine light on dash illuminates for a moment and then there's nothing there when pedal pressed again, pressing pedal a few times will usually get her running again.

Now a while ago i had the tick over problem only and posted this , it was suggested that i change the fuel filter and clean/check the maf. This rectified the problem and harmony was restored.

However, a few weeks ago unusual circumstances led me to run low on fuel to the extent i was running on warning light for some ten miles or so, believe it or not 5 garages had no diesel available as tanker apparently broken down till finally found one.
Filled up with Shell ( usual brew) and since then started with bad tick over and progressed to above problems.

Change fuel filter ( Bosch) No change and getting worse week by week.
Average 25 miles a day, 10 miles motorway and the rest city crawl.
Never supermarket fuel. Always Shell or Bp
Research has suggested fuel pump and horrified at the price.

Does anyone have any ideas on confirming this, or any clues to what it could be,

Similar post this evening was is more pointing to manual problem .
Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks in advance Phil
Click to expand...
have you tried injector cleaner (millers worked on mine) checked fuel lines,leak off pipes check for leak around injectors, also look for signs of leaks around pipes going to and from fuel filter,above a quarter of a tank and fuel pump will draw fuel and it should run trouble free,or it could be an electrical connection bad earth poor battery condition, my poor running at low speed is down to the dual mass flywheel (really bad on the overrun) coasting. and check for leak on wire around injector 4 this injector may be the fault on yours,try and get your faults read.
 
Thanks Roddy 4,
Yea tried 2 doses of injector cleaner (Redex)

No fuel leaks that i can find.

Just had fault read and it comes up with 136 Fuel Quantity Control

Just as an extra note going to work today it ran like a dog, chugged most of the way there,, even on acceleration.
Wondered if climate had anything to do with it.
It was a very damp morning 5 degrees. Started fine, then when put into drive it dropped sharply on revs to nearly cut out then picked back up again. On way back home it was better but chugged a lot.
Does the damp morning suggest electrical fault

Isn't the fuel quantity control on the injector pump, How can this be tested

Meanwhile i will check as you described.
Thanks Phil
 
Roddy is pretty bang on....I would suggest looking at No.4 injector.

This injector has a needle lift sensor on it that tells the ecu how long the injection period is and, as it is a metered nozzle, how much fuel is injected....(fuel Quantity Control)

I would hazard a guess that the needle lift sensor has gone U/S and will need to be replaced.

Just my twopeneth.....
 
Zanner64

It sounds like u have the same fault as me, as u come off throttle the injector light flashers quickly and then goes off.

I have mine read it came up with fuel quantity actuator which is the actuator in the pump

When cold and put it drive it will drop revs to say under 500rpm and can cum back up or stall once warm it isn't too bad I found that if u rans revs to 100rpm and drop it in gears it won't stall

Once at crawling speed and light and I mean light pedal action is used say 1200rpm it judders and knocks along until more throttle is used and it is ok

I'm avg 16-18 mpg round town I live 2miles from work on a run at 60 I avg 30mpg

I've spoke to a well known bosch fuel specialist in my area and he seems to think that the pump is out of sync with the actuator the only way to find out is to remove pump and bench teat it I'm removing it this weekend to get fully tested I'm hoping it needs recalibration if not it will need a new actuator

I've change glow plugs and leak off pipes and checked for leaks and electrical connections on injectors etc changed fuel filter etc still the same I will report back in a week to ten days and let u know if I got mine cured

If u can remove ur pump and get it tested it might be worth doing if u dny mind getting dirty

Let me know if u get same probs as mine under the same circumstances
 
Exercise caution when removing the FIP...

It has to be set and adjusted correctly and is not something you can *guess* at...needs to be be very precisley setup.
 
Its a good job I'm a fully trained mechanic then saint v8 I've got the rave manual and keep studying the procedure every night I've got the special tool as well as long as the tdc is on no.1 on compression stroke then remove pump an install as it came out it shuld be ok well that's as I see it from the rave manual
 
Thanks boys, will get under bonnet at weekend,
All points from you all seem in right direction

Matt, when you get yours sorted please update on this.

Here's hoping for a bad injector rather than pump.
Thanks again boys, will keep you updated
 
According to my bosch specialist the needle.lift sensor injector four shuld read between 90-12ohms if it reads between it is.ok I'm going to check my over weekend and let u know would be good if u can check this weekend and let me know mkne is a non egr many thanks
 
matt1987 said:
Its a good job I'm a fully trained mechanic then saint v8 I've got the rave manual and keep studying the procedure every night I've got the special tool as well as long as the tdc is on no.1 on compression stroke then remove pump an install as it came out it shuld be ok well that's as I see it from the rave manual
Click to expand...

What special tools do you have Matt. You need sprocket holder, crank lock pin. And ideally dti with adaptor to check and set pump timing. Sticking it back on a scribe mark may get engine running but you can't set it to 0.035" +- .001" lift on a scribe mark.
 
Last edited:
I had a similar problem, spent hundreds changing components, pump, battery, etc etc. Fixed with Wynns Fuel-Dry, about £7 from Halfords. (I had also tried injector cleaner, made no difference). Might be worth a try - I was amazed when it actually worked. I had the problem for 3 month, but has now been fine for last 16,000 miles
 
wammers said:
What special tools do you have Matt. You need sprocket holder, crank lock pin. And ideally dti with adaptor to check and set pump timing. Sticking it back on a scribe mark may get engine running but you can't set it to 0.035" +- .001" lift on a scribe mark.
Click to expand...

pity you are so far away wammers mine could do with a bit of adjustment too.
 
Wammers I have the sprocket holding tool the cranck tool and the camshaft tool so ican adjust the slack in chain it what the bosch specialist does and the dti aswell it will be pump tested Monday so will report back on the pump findings

Also serviced today all axles autobox pads front and rear all filters took me four hrs so not to bad going had seized caliper sliders

It harder to service the rangy than the nissans I work on for a living
 
matt1987 said:
According to my bosch specialist the needle.lift sensor injector four shuld read between 90-12ohms if it reads between it is.ok I'm going to check my over weekend and let u know would be good if u can check this weekend and let me know mkne is a non egr many thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks Matt,
Trying to get the roof on my extension this weekend so may lead into midweek.
Please update on your progress when you can.
Thanks again Phil
 
The ohms reading on injector 4 may be correct, but that does not mean it's working. You need to look at it on a scope or live data on Faultmate T4 etc.
 
Today I have removed pump took 3hrs which wasn't too bad also took intercooler and pipes off to get clean at work and the rad as I didn't have the tools to remove the fan all in all not a bad job to do also checked the needle lift I was reading 103.2ohms whic was in spec I only get the injection pump fault will keep you all posted
 
right guys bit more new on the pump the electrics are shot so it needs new electrics/actuator will know price as of wednesday :mad:
 
Pump is complete fubar needs recon or new pump opted for recon around £650 it seems a reasonable price what do you guys think should have pump back Friday night so it can be fitted on the weekend. The wifey isn't very happy
 
matt1987 said:
Pump is complete fubar needs recon or new pump opted for recon around £650 it seems a reasonable price what do you guys think should have pump back Friday night so it can be fitted on the weekend. The wifey isn't very happy
Click to expand...

yep recon pump is as good as new, just leaves a hole in your pocket,but on the plus side should give you a few more thousand miles.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Freelander Tick-over Speed
Replies
3
Views
427
Nodge68
Nodge68
S
Classic 1987 Range Rover Vogue SE auto 3.5L fitted with LPG Park safety
Replies
11
Views
685
norseman
norseman
S
SORTED - Freelander 1 TD4, Cut out at speed not restart
Replies
13
Views
915
Sly401
S
S
Classic Tapping noise under load
Replies
9
Views
754
norseman
norseman
A
Dashboard like a Christmas tree!!!
Replies
3
Views
231
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel