Okay, finished oil change and also changed fluid in front and rear differentials - all good! Decided to do transfer box as well. Vehicle up on axle stands and lying underneath. Transfer box drain plug easily accessible and budges, but need to get fill plug off first before draining the fluid! Who put the fill plug there?!!! Try to access fill plug with breaker bar, wobble extension and 1/2" male square socket. Spray it with Penetrene, try shocking by hitting breaker bar with a hammer, nothing! Finally, wobble extension breaks! Defeated! (I always wear safety goggles!) The wobble extension was a Gearwrench brand and it broke at the narrowest point where it connects onto the socket.

Don't know why this thing was put on so tight!!! (Last time the transfer box fluid was done by a LR mechanic around 6 years ago). Any thought / ideas? Might have to take to a mechanic who can put it up on a hoist and have a go at the fill plug?

While on the subject of lubrication, I believe there are four universal joints (2 per drive shaft?) that I should inspect grease? Straight forward grease gun job?

Apart from engine, transmission, diffs, transfer box and universals, is there anything else I should check/lubricate?

Probably they put thread lock on it. Although tapered, those plugs are known to leak but I hope it wasn't the red that they used. Take the vehicle for a drive to warm up the transfer case and try again while hot. And mind the exhaust pipe while doing it.
Standard, there are 3 UJs at the front and 1 at the back. The 2 on the cardan joint at the front are non serviceable factory fitted but they may have been replaced with greasable joints. Also, don't forget the sliding joints on the prop shaft itself. You will need to fit a grease nipple on the front one - from memory, I think it's a 1/4" UNF.

I suggest you also lubricate the door locks & hinges, the steering shaft UJs and any nuts, bolts & threads that are likely to corrode, especially earth points.

Always put a bit of PTFE tape on the thread, help to seal it and acts as a lubricant when you need to take the plug out. I'm not sure but the threads may be a bush set into the metal of the diff, take care not to break it loose.

Wobble extensions aren't the strongest things...

When I started servicing my D1 after having it done regularly by a local "expert" it took both feet on a 2 foot extension to get the sump plug undone. Fortunately the threads were OK. Why they can't use the torque figures - or even common sense - beats me.

iansoady said:

Wobble extensions aren't the strongest things...

When I started servicing my D1 after having it done regularly by a local "expert" it took both feet on a 2 foot extension to get the sump plug undone. Fortunately the threads were OK. Why they can't use the torque figures - or even common sense - beats me.

Click to expand...

Yeah, wobble extension snapped clean at the narrowest point where you can pivot the socket. So, wobble extension broken and the tip of the extension is now stuck inside the 3/8" to 1/2" male square plug!

You'll get that out, just have to tap it back and forth i'd a thought, unless it is right inside the plug. In which case you may well have to drill it ridiculously carefully. but i'd try lots of WD and knocking around first, anti clockwise!

I had a 3/8" wobble extension connected to a 3/8" breaker bar. Connected to the other end of the wobble extension was a 3/8" female to 1/2" male square plug adapter (to fit into the transfer box 1/2" square female plug). Anyway, didn't budge the transfer box plug, but the tip of the snapped wobble extension is now lodged inside the adapter. So, result is, without a 3/8" wobble extension now and also have an adapter with the tip of the wobble extension broken off inside it! Tried JB Weld and sticking wobble extension back onto the tip so I could pull it out of the adapter - JB Weld didn't bond.onto it.

Anyway, wearing safety goggles and out of the line-of-fire when the wobble extension snapped off so at least no injury! It broke at the point of narrowest cross-section - someone mentioned that wobble extensions are not particularly strong - strength compromised by adaptability!

Main thing I'm angry about is why was this plug done up so tightly by the mechanic who did the lube change 6 years ago?! Once I had tyres done at a chain outlet and when I got near home I had a flat! I could not get the wheel off to change it with the spare! Called RACV as a last resort and the technician was dumbfounded - he couldn't budge the wheel nuts either!. Had to get towed (tray truck) to a workshop!

Haven't tried tackling it again (will need to get a better wobble extension first) - someone suggested doing it when box is warmed-up (good idea), but because of limited, cramped access and all the fumbling around trying to get purchase on that 1/2" female plug near that confounded brake cable and drum, I think the exhaust would be a bit too close for comfort. Probably easier to drain the box, remove it, and tackle the fill plug on a workbench?!

Just p****d off it was done up so tightly - makes what should be a relatively simple job into an ordeal! Arrrggggghhhhh!

iansoady said:

Wobble extensions aren't the strongest things...

When I started servicing my D1 after having it done regularly by a local "expert" it took both feet on a 2 foot extension to get the sump plug undone. Fortunately the threads were OK. Why they can't use the torque figures - or even common sense - beats me.

Click to expand...

The box is cast aluminium eh? Yeah, the other thing is I worry about potentially damaging the box itself (or someone else damaging it)! Someone else said it takes a big extension and two feet to get it off - with my pot belly it makes it hard underneath! Must have been a masochistic engineer/designer who put that fill plug where it is!

Intestinalworm said:

Probably easier to drain the box, remove it, and tackle the fill plug on a workbench?!
Just p****d off it was done up so tightly - makes what should be a relatively simple job into an ordeal! Arrrggggghhhhh!

Click to expand...

Easier to use a 1/2" breaker bar.
Most LR jobs should be straightforward, but almost always turn out to be an ordeal.

Yeah, tried 1/2" breaker bar and 1/2" extension, but forced to use 3/8" extension and an adapter (3/8" to 1/2") as I had (now past tense) that as a wobble extension. Just so needlessly fiddly getting access, and the plug is tapered I believe which doesn't help me get good purchase. Anyway, don't want to harp on, but after spraying with Penetrene, leaving and finally getting what I thought was good purchase on the plug, I gave it a heave and broke the wobble extension. So much farting about for no result!

Did see a Youtube video with a Land Rover guy who uses a tommy bar with an extension (cheater bar). He ground the 1/2" male plug on the tommy bar with a grinder to give it a slight taper. He gets that into the transfer box plug without having to use a wobble extension as it is low profile and slips in behind the handbrake cable.

LR decided to put the filler right behind the handbrake cable!!

I mangled mine a tad.



I got a 1/2 extension and hammered it into the plug, then gave it a good kick..

came loose!!

**** that came out was mank.




I didn't torque the f out of it, coz simply you don't need to,

No PTFE tape

Just clean threads..

All good.

Used Miller 75w90 myself

Intestinalworm said:

Probably easier to drain the box, remove it, and tackle the fill plug on a workbench?!

Click to expand...

If it comes to that, I'd consider removing the handbrake shoes and the backplate to get a clear view of the plug.

Agree with above. If you have your plug so tight, better to remove hand brake asm and have a clear access. You do not even have to remove shoes, only loosen 4 bolts which fix backplate to Tbox and you can move it aside.

Was looking around for a 1/2" male tapered socket so it could fit snugly right into the 1/2" female plug on the transfer box - couldn't find anything though.

Might have another go, and remove the handbrake as you said.

I use this tool to remove the fill plug. It tight but works. If you will not succed and have to remove hand brake asm use the other tool for propshaft. Makes life much easier for future jobs as well.

Intestinalworm said:

Was looking around for a 1/2" male tapered socket so it could fit snugly right into the 1/2" female plug on the transfer box - couldn't find anything though.

Might have another go, and remove the handbrake as you said.

Click to expand...

A 1/2" sq drive extension works quite well.

Cheers