Bennehboy · Oct 9, 2015

Well, the box has been in for 3 months and done about 4K miles, and the CDL is whining - can hear it mostly when cornering at slow speeds.

Clearly I either stuffed something up or got some debris in there.

Any thoughts?

Drive it till it goes bang?

jamesmartin · Oct 9, 2015

Bennehboy said:
Checked the input bearing preload, it's also way too high.

So looks like the replacement case from Ashcroft's has a completely different register to the old.

of course it youll find very few cases share the same dimensions , rear diff bearing when fitting you just tap in till its flush rear speedo housing pushes it to its correct depth in case ,the amount depends on speedo housing they can vary greatly so swapping a speedo housing can make shimming diff very difficult

Bennehboy · Oct 9, 2015

I think I got the shimming correct on that James, used the spring gauge as per our phone conversation - I'm wondering if some of the cable insulation came away with me constantly having to reshim and retry, and maybe that's found it's way into bearings? Might explain why it had no whine at all to start with.

I'll drop the oil this w/e and see what I can see.

jamesmartin · Oct 9, 2015

Bennehboy said:
So, it looks like the selectable spacer for the intermediate shaft is too long for this case, unfortunately these are a pain in the bum to size up right without access to a special setting tool from LR.

I'm going to use a crushable spacer instead and do it the old school way.

Preload should bebetween 5.9 & 12 Kilos of spring balance force to turn both the input gear and the intermediate gear, my intermediate gear alone took ~ 10KG of force around its wider circumference which is way too tight.

See this video

10 -15 lbs inches or 2-4 thou preload as with the input and diff

jamesmartin · Oct 9, 2015

Bennehboy said:
Well, the box has been in for 3 months and done about 4K miles, and the CDL is whining - can hear it mostly when cornering at slow speeds.

Clearly I either stuffed something up or got some debris in there.

Any thoughts?

Drive it till it goes bang?

diff gears wont be turning very fast when cornering how tight was it, or do you mean the 2 taper bearings

Bennehboy · Oct 9, 2015

Diff gears were really tight, think I mentioned that it was hard to turn by hand, very notchy - same carrier, same shims, but new thrust washers and different cross pins (ashcroft HD).

jamesmartin · Oct 9, 2015

Bennehboy said:
Diff gears were really tight, think I mentioned that it was hard to turn by hand, very notchy - same carrier, same shims, but new thrust washers and different cross pins (ashcroft HD).

nothcy is normal but should turn by hand easy enough with out been loose,too tight and thrust washers take some force

Bennehboy · Oct 11, 2015

Yeah I'm expecting some golden oil when I drop it this aft.

Bennehboy · Oct 12, 2015

OK, so I'm a complete chump...

On a hunch I checked the PAS fluid, turns out it was low, have a weep from the pump. Anyhow topped it up and noise gone - amazing how sound travels because it deffo sounded like it was coming from same area as tbox.

Still, feel a lot better!

cj_uk · Oct 22, 2015

Glad you sorted it Ben

I really need to get mine done as I've got a whine from about 50 mph upwards once at temperature and its leaking, not much, but you know how a little oil always gets everywhere

Bennehboy · Jul 31, 2020

BTW both of these boxes are still going strong 5 years later

landy-lee · May 12, 2021

jamesmartin said:
you know the synchro springs should be staggered ie gap not in same position on both sides

What happens if they are not staggered?

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