I've got a scale I could've used but tbh I just went with what feels right as per JM's previous post.

Ah, fair enough, I did the same with the first I did, the others I just checked out of curiosity.
That said, they was found to be ok anyhow.
 
Got a bit more done today...

Diff rear bearing track fitted to main case, slightly fiddly because there's no flange for the bearing to butt up against, instead you have to use a straight edge and a 1mm feeler gauge to check depth (or 2 * 0.5mm in my case!)
IMG_20150708_171759.jpg


Input gear front bearing track pressed in next
IMG_20150708_173048.jpg


Then the rear track along with a 3.5mm shim
IMG_20150708_173528.jpg

IMG_20150708_173818.jpg


Then I made up a pusher for the input bearings, cutting the bearing inner race stops it from also staying pressed onto the shaft...
IMG_20150708_175034.jpg


Pressed the bearings on using it
IMG_20150708_175126.jpg

IMG_20150708_175520.jpg


Same story for the inner tracks on the intermediate gear, you can't see the cut in my 'pusher' in this photo
IMG_20150708_180303.jpg


Next the rear output housing was heated up and the bearing dropped into place
IMG_20150708_181943.jpg


After fitting the retaining circlip I used the old bearing outer track as a pusher for the oil seal
IMG_20150708_183505.jpg


Then pressed the shaft into the bearing
IMG_20150708_183536.jpg


Same story for the front output housing
IMG_20150708_185515.jpg

IMG_20150708_190334.jpg


New o-ring on the hi/lo crossfhaft
IMG_20150708_190814.jpg


New o-rings on the difflock selector
IMG_20150708_191909.jpg


And that's it for now, need a cuppa!
 
Well, they say only fools rush in....

Got the rear output housing bolted & RTV'd on
IMG_20150709_121941.jpg


Dropped the diff assembly and selector in
IMG_20150709_123134.jpg


Fitted the front housing, including RTV
IMG_20150709_125610.jpg


Big mistake, I should've dry fitted it first and checked the preload. As it stands I can barely turn the diff assembly by hand, way too much preload.

So I disassembled the front output housing and checked the shim thickness, 2.55mm, the only spare shim I have is exactly the same.

No way I'm going to get the tbox rebuilt ready for Sunday, I doubt ashcrofts can get a shim kit to me by tomorrow :(
 
Checked the input bearing preload, it's also way too high.

So looks like the replacement case from Ashcroft's has a completely different register to the old.
 
DTI'd the input gear travel with no shim behind the rear bearing track....

Zero'd
IMG_20150709_171644.jpg


Gear at full travel
IMG_20150709_171658.jpg


Which is just shy of 3mm

According to the workshop manual 3.15 is the usual smallest shim.

I'm going to triple check all the tracks and bearings are pressed on fully.
 
Can't get feeler gauges behind any of the bearings or tracks, so all I can think is that a) this case is a bit off, or b) the bearings are thicker, or c) both.
 
So, it looks like the selectable spacer for the intermediate shaft is too long for this case, unfortunately these are a pain in the bum to size up right without access to a special setting tool from LR.

I'm going to use a crushable spacer instead and do it the old school way.

Preload should bebetween 5.9 & 12 Kilos of spring balance force to turn both the input gear and the intermediate gear, my intermediate gear alone took ~ 10KG of force around its wider circumference which is way too tight.

See this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7onWjo4dIU
 
Shim kits arrived from Ashcrofts...

Got stuck into sorting the diff preload, first attempt 3.0mm of shims (1+1.5+0.5) too tight, 2nd go 2.5mm (1.0+1.5), too loose, third try 2.8mm (1.0+1.5+0.3) just right - I feel like goldilocks!

So anyway a good preload is anywhere between 1.63 + 4.5KG of turning force required with a wire wrapped round the bit between the gears. (the wide range is to cover old & new bearings). I got a reading of ~3.25KG

N5rZMVNjxzy2e12szu8gdYEUu5mh9wlLDeEOFNEaCL8=w1287-h965-no


Input gear next but I've got to go out now!
 
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Did the input gear preload next, shim worked out at 3.05mm so smack on the DTI measurement +0.05mm for preload. Tested it with a spring balance and get 2.5kg of force required to turn, acceptable limits are 2.2 to 6.8 kg.

ervvGOFkrYuSC2mF55xr0skScmTv2x53fCCVNGPZQJU=w1287-h965-no


Spot the schoolboy error, gear is back to front!

Next the front housing was RTV'd on, CAUTION, the workshop manual says to insert the difflock selector shaft AFTER fitting the housing to the main case. DO NOT DO THIS, there's a plug in the end of the selector shaft hole that means you can't fit it afterward - nowhere does the manual state the plug should be removed, or even refitted (see the 2nd picture)!
ItmRaNC2KyxFv2FeBDmbfSyBY3TzGKWJoG3noXV6kFI=w1287-h965-no

wcaojvrgzRGddtWMXMLMe9ssMwL4yZxLiJRJMvNk_W4=w724-h965-no


Spring detent caps on
KzIRnA4tX_ptNaWbBXgE-5jncyei_V8SbEYQqs9y26o=w1287-h965-no


Selector lever fitted and correctly engaged in the shaft, and tested with a 10mm spanner
ECnrKfZleaTLLnMUpEmr4p-Iyja5LH6gktmCW9rdW_A=w1287-h965-no


Difflock switch fitted, hi/lo switch fitted (D2 specific this), hi/lo selector housing, switch retaining plate, & diff lock detente fitted
zPp1FGJd6ZLQJQABSPs_NDEzngJJBb0eIgTdO0pHtTs=w1287-h965-no


Intermediate gears lowered in with bearings and a crushable spacer (D2 has a selectable spacer but it's a mare to figure out the right size and they are 7 quid each!), still got the input gear back to front in this pic, oops!
WY4OpjLip3-UWbajkWXTQ1GWHhaICZ6PzVCXbSL-qCY=w1287-h965-no


Preload for the intermediate is achieved by tightening the stake nut until there's no endfloat on the gears, spring balance testing the input gear (with diff in neutral) the aim is to get an extra 3.7 +-1.63 KG of force required to turn, I kept tweaking the stake nut to collapse the spacer until I had a total force required of 8kg, would've preferred it to be a tiny bit less but that will have to do, not got a spare crush spacer.
BeFCHfz9D6Cm2FKljfvhhB9BAwGWJS2Ng6DMyc0XxWo=w1287-h965-no


PTO cover back on
9sryWrXICfNladnDMB0e1UbbgZB1BSJe8pGMGOEJUTI=w1287-h965-no


Extended sump on
KOYoMUeBik6BCsUDZ3r53qahLiRoY-HoLU0RIgwu7Bo=w1287-h965-no


hi/lo detente in
Ygh1DFrYzp8mL3XvxkVYSOnGAs6Z272WNecIXHNklXU=w1287-h965-no


New flanges on and an input seal fitted
SYylPWDHXotCJzE43mS_WvTIUcUrwOfRfuA1pwFNo-o=w1287-h965-no


Jobs a good un.

Only one small task to do and that's to clean up the harmonic damper that's fitted to these on a D2, I'll need to swap two of the front housing bolts over for stud bolts to fit it.

Gave the R380 I'd already built a final coat of black too.
yUzj9wt6VjGHXjPEM3QKYcPzgqgcYy0x1hmtqZKsrU8=w1287-h965-no


All ready for the chassis swap!
 
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FS Google have changed summat if the phots are linked from picasa, but they work from Google Photos... editing...
 
Photos working for me!
Great write-up.

Paul
2001 D2 TD5 185,000 miles & climbing.
 
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Both boxes finally on the vehicle

Z5LZhbGIV81I-MuL88-fYR5M3oRZem_8x3vH8bsMg_E=w1287-h965-no


The good news is that they work as expected. V8 5th gear is brilliant for motorway cruising.
 

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