aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Ah, fair enough, I did the same with the first I did, the others I just checked out of curiosity.
That said, they was found to be ok anyhow.
Ah, fair enough, I did the same with the first I did, the others I just checked out of curiosity.
That said, they was found to be ok anyhow.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Got a bit more done today...
Diff rear bearing track fitted to main case, slightly fiddly because there's no flange for the bearing to butt up against, instead you have to use a straight edge and a 1mm feeler gauge to check depth (or 2 * 0.5mm in my case!)
Input gear front bearing track pressed in next
Then the rear track along with a 3.5mm shim
Then I made up a pusher for the input bearings, cutting the bearing inner race stops it from also staying pressed onto the shaft...
Pressed the bearings on using it
Same story for the inner tracks on the intermediate gear, you can't see the cut in my 'pusher' in this photo
Next the rear output housing was heated up and the bearing dropped into place
After fitting the retaining circlip I used the old bearing outer track as a pusher for the oil seal
Then pressed the shaft into the bearing
Same story for the front output housing
New o-ring on the hi/lo crossfhaft
New o-rings on the difflock selector
And that's it for now, need a cuppa!
Diff rear bearing track fitted to main case, slightly fiddly because there's no flange for the bearing to butt up against, instead you have to use a straight edge and a 1mm feeler gauge to check depth (or 2 * 0.5mm in my case!)
Input gear front bearing track pressed in next
Then the rear track along with a 3.5mm shim
Then I made up a pusher for the input bearings, cutting the bearing inner race stops it from also staying pressed onto the shaft...
Pressed the bearings on using it
Same story for the inner tracks on the intermediate gear, you can't see the cut in my 'pusher' in this photo
Next the rear output housing was heated up and the bearing dropped into place
After fitting the retaining circlip I used the old bearing outer track as a pusher for the oil seal
Then pressed the shaft into the bearing
Same story for the front output housing
New o-ring on the hi/lo crossfhaft
New o-rings on the difflock selector
And that's it for now, need a cuppa!
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Well, they say only fools rush in....
Got the rear output housing bolted & RTV'd on
Dropped the diff assembly and selector in
Fitted the front housing, including RTV
Big mistake, I should've dry fitted it first and checked the preload. As it stands I can barely turn the diff assembly by hand, way too much preload.
So I disassembled the front output housing and checked the shim thickness, 2.55mm, the only spare shim I have is exactly the same.
No way I'm going to get the tbox rebuilt ready for Sunday, I doubt ashcrofts can get a shim kit to me by tomorrow
Got the rear output housing bolted & RTV'd on
Dropped the diff assembly and selector in
Fitted the front housing, including RTV
Big mistake, I should've dry fitted it first and checked the preload. As it stands I can barely turn the diff assembly by hand, way too much preload.
So I disassembled the front output housing and checked the shim thickness, 2.55mm, the only spare shim I have is exactly the same.
No way I'm going to get the tbox rebuilt ready for Sunday, I doubt ashcrofts can get a shim kit to me by tomorrow
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
DTI'd the input gear travel with no shim behind the rear bearing track....
Zero'd
Gear at full travel
Which is just shy of 3mm
According to the workshop manual 3.15 is the usual smallest shim.
I'm going to triple check all the tracks and bearings are pressed on fully.
Zero'd
Gear at full travel
Which is just shy of 3mm
According to the workshop manual 3.15 is the usual smallest shim.
I'm going to triple check all the tracks and bearings are pressed on fully.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
So, it looks like the selectable spacer for the intermediate shaft is too long for this case, unfortunately these are a pain in the bum to size up right without access to a special setting tool from LR.
I'm going to use a crushable spacer instead and do it the old school way.
Preload should bebetween 5.9 & 12 Kilos of spring balance force to turn both the input gear and the intermediate gear, my intermediate gear alone took ~ 10KG of force around its wider circumference which is way too tight.
See this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7onWjo4dIU
I'm going to use a crushable spacer instead and do it the old school way.
Preload should bebetween 5.9 & 12 Kilos of spring balance force to turn both the input gear and the intermediate gear, my intermediate gear alone took ~ 10KG of force around its wider circumference which is way too tight.
See this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7onWjo4dIU
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Shim kits arrived from Ashcrofts...
Got stuck into sorting the diff preload, first attempt 3.0mm of shims (1+1.5+0.5) too tight, 2nd go 2.5mm (1.0+1.5), too loose, third try 2.8mm (1.0+1.5+0.3) just right - I feel like goldilocks!
So anyway a good preload is anywhere between 1.63 + 4.5KG of turning force required with a wire wrapped round the bit between the gears. (the wide range is to cover old & new bearings). I got a reading of ~3.25KG
Input gear next but I've got to go out now!
Got stuck into sorting the diff preload, first attempt 3.0mm of shims (1+1.5+0.5) too tight, 2nd go 2.5mm (1.0+1.5), too loose, third try 2.8mm (1.0+1.5+0.3) just right - I feel like goldilocks!
So anyway a good preload is anywhere between 1.63 + 4.5KG of turning force required with a wire wrapped round the bit between the gears. (the wide range is to cover old & new bearings). I got a reading of ~3.25KG
Input gear next but I've got to go out now!
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Did the input gear preload next, shim worked out at 3.05mm so smack on the DTI measurement +0.05mm for preload. Tested it with a spring balance and get 2.5kg of force required to turn, acceptable limits are 2.2 to 6.8 kg.
Spot the schoolboy error, gear is back to front!
Next the front housing was RTV'd on, CAUTION, the workshop manual says to insert the difflock selector shaft AFTER fitting the housing to the main case. DO NOT DO THIS, there's a plug in the end of the selector shaft hole that means you can't fit it afterward - nowhere does the manual state the plug should be removed, or even refitted (see the 2nd picture)!
Spring detent caps on
Selector lever fitted and correctly engaged in the shaft, and tested with a 10mm spanner
Difflock switch fitted, hi/lo switch fitted (D2 specific this), hi/lo selector housing, switch retaining plate, & diff lock detente fitted
Intermediate gears lowered in with bearings and a crushable spacer (D2 has a selectable spacer but it's a mare to figure out the right size and they are 7 quid each!), still got the input gear back to front in this pic, oops!
Preload for the intermediate is achieved by tightening the stake nut until there's no endfloat on the gears, spring balance testing the input gear (with diff in neutral) the aim is to get an extra 3.7 +-1.63 KG of force required to turn, I kept tweaking the stake nut to collapse the spacer until I had a total force required of 8kg, would've preferred it to be a tiny bit less but that will have to do, not got a spare crush spacer.
PTO cover back on
Extended sump on
hi/lo detente in
New flanges on and an input seal fitted
Jobs a good un.
Only one small task to do and that's to clean up the harmonic damper that's fitted to these on a D2, I'll need to swap two of the front housing bolts over for stud bolts to fit it.
Gave the R380 I'd already built a final coat of black too.
All ready for the chassis swap!
Spot the schoolboy error, gear is back to front!
Next the front housing was RTV'd on, CAUTION, the workshop manual says to insert the difflock selector shaft AFTER fitting the housing to the main case. DO NOT DO THIS, there's a plug in the end of the selector shaft hole that means you can't fit it afterward - nowhere does the manual state the plug should be removed, or even refitted (see the 2nd picture)!
Spring detent caps on
Selector lever fitted and correctly engaged in the shaft, and tested with a 10mm spanner
Difflock switch fitted, hi/lo switch fitted (D2 specific this), hi/lo selector housing, switch retaining plate, & diff lock detente fitted
Intermediate gears lowered in with bearings and a crushable spacer (D2 has a selectable spacer but it's a mare to figure out the right size and they are 7 quid each!), still got the input gear back to front in this pic, oops!
Preload for the intermediate is achieved by tightening the stake nut until there's no endfloat on the gears, spring balance testing the input gear (with diff in neutral) the aim is to get an extra 3.7 +-1.63 KG of force required to turn, I kept tweaking the stake nut to collapse the spacer until I had a total force required of 8kg, would've preferred it to be a tiny bit less but that will have to do, not got a spare crush spacer.
PTO cover back on
Extended sump on
hi/lo detente in
New flanges on and an input seal fitted
Jobs a good un.
Only one small task to do and that's to clean up the harmonic damper that's fitted to these on a D2, I'll need to swap two of the front housing bolts over for stud bolts to fit it.
Gave the R380 I'd already built a final coat of black too.
All ready for the chassis swap!
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aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Pictures aren't working, but glad you're all sorted mate
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Pictures aren't working, but glad you're all sorted mate
Weird, must be your connection buddy, these are all on google pics so no reason for them not to work. Same for anyone else?
nrgserv
Well-Known Member
Pictures aren't working, but glad you're all sorted mate
no pics ere either benneh
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Cheers fella, I re-linked all the photos in the end.
The weird things is that they work fine on another forum.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Aye, photo's working now. Looks good Ben, much betterer
