you can limit torque by using extension bars and drive size apadters ,the longer or thinner the bar the less torque applied
 
Sounds good that James

As it happens I was bolting the LT230 back together Wednesday night, adapted down to 3/8" and then with a 10" extension by the time it got to the socket it was actually quite gentle and you could pretty easily burst the gun to carefully nip the m8 bolts without trouble

:)
 
So, with the stake nut off the lay shaft I could crack on with the dissassembly:

First job was to pull the damaged 5th lay gear off, and make sure the split washer doesn't go walkies!
IMG_20140328_105240.jpg


Reverse gear then slides off the layshaft:
IMG_20140328_105259.jpg


Next the collets and retaining ring come off the main shaft:
IMG_20140328_105322.jpg


And then the mainshaft rear support bearing track needs pulling off - I used my bearing splitters to do this:
IMG_20140328_105331.jpg


5th main gear and it's baulk ring can now come off the main shaft:
IMG_20140328_105402.jpg


Only minor wear on the baulk ring:
IMG_20140328_105418.jpg


Off comes the needler roller that 5th main sits atop:
IMG_20140328_105450.jpg


Out with the grub screw holding the selector yoke, and tap the yoke off the selector shaft:
IMG_20140328_105651.jpg

IMG_20140328_110243.jpg


Now the circlip securing the 5th/Reverse selector hub needs to come off - wear eye protection!
IMG_20140328_110346.jpg

IMG_20140328_110542.jpg


The entire hub assembly and selector can now be slid off, make sure you keep the hub and ring aligned, you'll want to make sure they go back ion the same way. I had to tap the selector off with a punch and rubber mallet - I slaved a bolt into the centre plate and main casing to stop everything separating while I did this:
IMG_20140328_110633.jpg

IMG_20140328_111025.jpg

IMG_20140328_111101.jpg


Now main reverse and it's baulk ring can come off:
IMG_20140328_111219.jpg


I'm stacking everything in the same order as it comes off:
IMG_20140328_111233.jpg


With main reverse off it's needle roller can be removed:
IMG_20140328_115209.jpg


Then the bush and selectable spacer:
IMG_20140328_111328.jpg

IMG_20140328_111422.jpg


Now the detent springs and balls for the selector need to come out so the centre plate can be removed - be careful to catch the ball bearings, they don't like to play nicely:
IMG_20140328_111818.jpg

IMG_20140328_112420.jpg



Carefully lever the centre plate off and slide it over the main and layshaft - you'll need to support the shafts whilst doing this and be careful not to lose the bearing tracks from the centre plate, they can fall out:
IMG_20140328_112222.jpg


First impressions are that the lay shaft and mainshaft gears are in really good condition :banana:
IMG_20140328_112436.jpg


Next step is to remove the spool retainer so that the mainshaft and selectors can be slid out as one unit:
IMG_20140328_112519.jpg

IMG_20140328_112625.jpg


Mainshaft, layshaft, and pinion then simply slide out :D
IMG_20140328_113034.jpg

IMG_20140328_113041.jpg

IMG_20140328_113046.jpg

IMG_20140328_113050.jpg


Main case cleanup & mainshaft dissassembly next :)
 
Selector shaft is quite warn from the detente ball bearings, and those are also looking quite pitted:
IMG_20140328_142324.jpg


The 4th/3rd selector fork is really quite warn too:
IMG_20140328_142349.jpg


I'll check what the one on the other box is like and swap it in if it's in better shape.
 
Degreased, jet washed and wire brushed the main case:

IMG_20140329_134938.jpg


First coat of Zinc primer (3 in total):

IMG_20140329_143358.jpg


First coat of matt black (still wet):

IMG_20140329_162923.jpg


All rattle canned so no idea if it will be any good on a gearbox :D

3 coats of black going on then will do 3 of lacquer.
 
'pressed' the idler gear shaft out of the centre plate using a BFH & MAPP gas:

IMG_20140329_170421.jpg

IMG_20140329_170431.jpg


Set about cleaning the plate up ready for painting:
IMG_20140329_171541.jpg
 
Looks good mate, And a good read :)
Not sure I'd have the bollocks to attempt to rebuild mine :eek:

Oh and where and how much was the milwaukee impact gun if you don't mind me asking :p
 
Just watched this Ashcrofts R380 rebuild video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTyuszBpnC8

Lots of BFH use, no press involved at any stage, didn't see any endfloat checks at all... But then the video chops about so they could have left it out.

some leave endfloat ,ive found none is better , you dry build box with rear bearing plate on a suitable stand to allow shafts to poke through unhindered ,fit lay shaft and main shaft with input shaft ,then dry fit case and secure with 4 bolts then fit front bearing cover ,you can then check for end float or too much preload by feel if ok you can the rebuild with selector shaft and loctite all bearing races and shims into cover and plate ,it stops bearing races spinning case, usually during clutching or power changes
 
Anyone know if the reverse idler gear from a 300tdi box will fit OK?

I'm assuming it will, but notice that at some point LR superceded the idler gear part no from FTC2725 to TUB102000 - just wondered if I need care about any differences?
 
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