jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you can limit torque by using extension bars and drive size apadters ,the longer or thinner the bar the less torque applied
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Sounds good that James
As it happens I was bolting the LT230 back together Wednesday night, adapted down to 3/8" and then with a 10" extension by the time it got to the socket it was actually quite gentle and you could pretty easily burst the gun to carefully nip the m8 bolts without trouble
As it happens I was bolting the LT230 back together Wednesday night, adapted down to 3/8" and then with a 10" extension by the time it got to the socket it was actually quite gentle and you could pretty easily burst the gun to carefully nip the m8 bolts without trouble
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
So, with the stake nut off the lay shaft I could crack on with the dissassembly:
First job was to pull the damaged 5th lay gear off, and make sure the split washer doesn't go walkies!
Reverse gear then slides off the layshaft:
Next the collets and retaining ring come off the main shaft:
And then the mainshaft rear support bearing track needs pulling off - I used my bearing splitters to do this:
5th main gear and it's baulk ring can now come off the main shaft:
Only minor wear on the baulk ring:
Off comes the needler roller that 5th main sits atop:
Out with the grub screw holding the selector yoke, and tap the yoke off the selector shaft:
Now the circlip securing the 5th/Reverse selector hub needs to come off - wear eye protection!
The entire hub assembly and selector can now be slid off, make sure you keep the hub and ring aligned, you'll want to make sure they go back ion the same way. I had to tap the selector off with a punch and rubber mallet - I slaved a bolt into the centre plate and main casing to stop everything separating while I did this:
Now main reverse and it's baulk ring can come off:
I'm stacking everything in the same order as it comes off:
With main reverse off it's needle roller can be removed:
Then the bush and selectable spacer:
Now the detent springs and balls for the selector need to come out so the centre plate can be removed - be careful to catch the ball bearings, they don't like to play nicely:
Carefully lever the centre plate off and slide it over the main and layshaft - you'll need to support the shafts whilst doing this and be careful not to lose the bearing tracks from the centre plate, they can fall out:
First impressions are that the lay shaft and mainshaft gears are in really good condition
Next step is to remove the spool retainer so that the mainshaft and selectors can be slid out as one unit:
Mainshaft, layshaft, and pinion then simply slide out
Main case cleanup & mainshaft dissassembly next
First job was to pull the damaged 5th lay gear off, and make sure the split washer doesn't go walkies!
Reverse gear then slides off the layshaft:
Next the collets and retaining ring come off the main shaft:
And then the mainshaft rear support bearing track needs pulling off - I used my bearing splitters to do this:
5th main gear and it's baulk ring can now come off the main shaft:
Only minor wear on the baulk ring:
Off comes the needler roller that 5th main sits atop:
Out with the grub screw holding the selector yoke, and tap the yoke off the selector shaft:
Now the circlip securing the 5th/Reverse selector hub needs to come off - wear eye protection!
The entire hub assembly and selector can now be slid off, make sure you keep the hub and ring aligned, you'll want to make sure they go back ion the same way. I had to tap the selector off with a punch and rubber mallet - I slaved a bolt into the centre plate and main casing to stop everything separating while I did this:
Now main reverse and it's baulk ring can come off:
I'm stacking everything in the same order as it comes off:
With main reverse off it's needle roller can be removed:
Then the bush and selectable spacer:
Now the detent springs and balls for the selector need to come out so the centre plate can be removed - be careful to catch the ball bearings, they don't like to play nicely:
Carefully lever the centre plate off and slide it over the main and layshaft - you'll need to support the shafts whilst doing this and be careful not to lose the bearing tracks from the centre plate, they can fall out:
First impressions are that the lay shaft and mainshaft gears are in really good condition
Next step is to remove the spool retainer so that the mainshaft and selectors can be slid out as one unit:
Mainshaft, layshaft, and pinion then simply slide out
Main case cleanup & mainshaft dissassembly next
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Looks good mate, And a good read
Not sure I'd have the bollocks to attempt to rebuild mine
Oh and where and how much was the milwaukee impact gun if you don't mind me asking
Not sure I'd have the bollocks to attempt to rebuild mine
Oh and where and how much was the milwaukee impact gun if you don't mind me asking
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Just watched this Ashcrofts R380 rebuild video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTyuszBpnC8
Lots of BFH use, no press involved at any stage, didn't see any endfloat checks at all... But then the video chops about so they could have left it out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTyuszBpnC8
Lots of BFH use, no press involved at any stage, didn't see any endfloat checks at all... But then the video chops about so they could have left it out.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
some leave endfloat ,ive found none is better , you dry build box with rear bearing plate on a suitable stand to allow shafts to poke through unhindered ,fit lay shaft and main shaft with input shaft ,then dry fit case and secure with 4 bolts then fit front bearing cover ,you can then check for end float or too much preload by feel if ok you can the rebuild with selector shaft and loctite all bearing races and shims into cover and plate ,it stops bearing races spinning case, usually during clutching or power changes
