At least the IAT wiring issue is ruled out as the reading is now OK all the way... the boost is low, you should get up to 230 manifold presssure under heavy load and 210 was the highest i've seen so tighten the wastegate rod with two threads and if it's better one at a time untill it overboosts then one back...if it doesnt overboost your turbo might be "tired" or something else but then we'll speak more about that
 
sierrafery said:
At least the IAT wiring issue is ruled out as the reading is now OK all the way... the boost is low, you should get up to 230 manifold presssure under heavy load and 210 was the highest i've seen so tighten the wastegate rod with two threads and if it's better one at a time untill it overboosts then one back...if it doesnt overboost your turbo might be "tired" or something else but then we'll speak more about that
Click to expand...

Thanks, I appreciate your feedback, everyone's feedback, I am working hard trying to get this sorted.

So, new MAP sensor required then? I have some spare time early part of next week, so will get onto the Wastegate part then.

Have a nice evening! 👍
 
Does the MAP sensor have to be a genuine LR part, or are there alternatives? (I have a feeling this is asked frequently!!)
 
tweedandbriar said:
Does the MAP sensor have to be a genuine LR part, or are there alternatives? (I have a feeling this is asked frequently!!)
Click to expand...
Anything like that I go LR. That CPS pattern part looked junk compared to the LR part when I also did that chasing the accelerator issue on mine. Another chap had a pattern fail within a couple hundred miles 😂
 
MAP sensor en route, should be here tomorrow. Managed an early finish so will wind in the Wastegate a couple of turns and see how it goes. I'll update again when the new MAP sensor has been fitted and do another Nano run.
 
When you plug in nanocom go to engine "inputs switch" and see if the clutch switch and brake switch inputs are reacting when you push the pedals, these are also important
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
When you plug in nanocom go to engine "inputs switch" and see if the clutch switch and brake switch inputs are reacting when you push the pedals, these are also important
Click to expand...

Yep, they are both coming on/off as expected. However, I did notice that when I put the transfer box into High, the Nano is reporting it as Low and vice versa??
 
sierrafery said:
That's how it is
Click to expand...

Thought as much!

Just picked my boy from school up so recorded the following Nano Log with Wastegate turned in two threads - I've not had the chance to do this until it limps, then back a turn. Its on my list! I suspect the connection might need cleaning on the Nanocom plug in the vehicle as the engine speed is clearly gone awry!


The old girl is running well, Still hops in second gear at times (but much less often) if the revs aren't maintained high enough - could be me getting used to it(?) Remember when you were a learner driver, and you were in too high a gear for the speed travelling and the car would hop before stalling, thats what it feels like - again, might be me, and I am sort of getting used to it now, but would rather address it if its not my driving style.

First gear seems like it merely to get off the mark and demands changing to 2nd as soon as possible - is that typical?

Tony
 
tweedandbriar
Check out the antisurge Circuit. It's activated by depressing the clutch. The switch is fitted to the clutch master cylinder and on the Defender is switch closed when foot off pedal and open when depressed. Easy check of the switch with a multimeter switch open switch closed when clutch pedal activated. It is possible to have an incorrect switch which works the opposite way. Also check this circuit all the way back to the ECU as the wire and connector can be at fault. It may be possible to check with your Nanocom if the circuit is working, it is possible with my diagnostic reader not sure about Nanocom.
Good luck
 
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