U made any progress on this prob, Steve? Afraid I know sod all about the cam bearing spinning in the housing so would be interested in knowing if this proved to be the prob or not.
 
Hi Miles
Still ongoing! Ive managed to replace all big end and main shells - all ok apart from rear main which was worn quite badly. Oil pump checked out and clearances all within spec. Re fitted sump last nite - giving it 24hrs to cure before re filling and start up tonite so will let you know if any improvement. Going to change the oil from 10/40 to 20/50 unless anyone advises me otherwise?
steve
 
well started her up and no change! Once up to temp on the drive, if i slip the clutch in high gear to drop engine revs, oil light will come on full, dip clutch to regain revs, light stays on, blip throttle and light goes out - v frustrating.
steve
 
If the light comes on when under load (ie when you put it in gear and slip the clutch) then I would say that you are looking at worn mains/ big ends. This is based on what I know about older car engines that I have worked on in the past. However, I could be wrong. I think that all the bottom end bearings could be changed with the removal of the sump only.
 
Yes or NO, did you dismantle the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump to ensure that the "bullet" isn't stuck?

CharlesY
 
Hi Miles
Yes - relief plunger is free and clean, I even put a 2mm washer behind spring in desperation. have spoken with another land rover engineering company - they diagnosed cam bearig failure too - am going to try removing cover plates this weekend on side of block to have a peek at cam bearings for signs of major failure - looks like engine has got to come out tho
steve
 
Fitted a gauge tonite - when up to full temp i have 5 - 6 psi at tickover. Fast tickover goes up to 20 psi, 2 - 3000 rpm 40 - 50 psi. im tempted to leave well alone - comments please?
 
Fitted a gauge tonite - when up to full temp i have 5 - 6 psi at tickover. Fast tickover goes up to 20 psi, 2 - 3000 rpm 40 - 50 psi. im tempted to leave well alone - comments please?

A lot of older, high mileage cars (I know, its not a car its 'special' cos its a landy), do have low oil pressure at tickover. Not sure of the implications here though. A lot more complex and expensive to fix if things do go badly wrong. You probably should check out this cam bearing problem to see if that is a problem. Not sure if that can be done in situ or not. I do know that I had a 73' Capri that had low oil pressure and a can of slick 50 made a big improvement but I am not suggesting you try this.There are a lot of more knowlegable and wiser people who can advise better on here.
 
I think that all along this has been a combination of things conspiring to allow just a little more oil OUT than the pump can keep up with to maintain the pressure at slow revs.

Some "clearance" at all the journals, and including up at the rocker shaft if the rocker bushes are worn, can do this, when the pump is old and tired.

PRESSURE as such isn't so important. What really matters more is VOLUME, so that plenty good more or less clean oil is reaching and flowing through the bearings, (a) to lubricate them and (b) to cool them down.

The lubrication of the mains and big ends requires very little pressure, because of a hydrostatic effect which creates a wall of oil in the bearing just ahead of the bits that would rub. As long as the thjing is running this effect saves the day.

So, I think your pressure will be fine, BUT if a camshaft shell bearing is spinning in the block, that is a problem.

In my fifty years of engines, I have never seen or heard of this happening, but I am not all that experienced with Landies!

CharlesY
 
Yes - I agree with you charles, its going to run now and ill monitor the oil pressure and listen for increasing noise - thanks all for your help. steve
 

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