S

steve52

New Member
Hi - ive just put an old disco engine in my 90 - all fine except oil pressure warning light flickers on when engine hot if i slow tickover down by either slipping clutch at tickover or turning the steering to full lock - i intend to catrry out oil change soon - anything else i can do? thanks
steve
 
V8 or diesel? The V8 tends to have a low pressure anyway.

If it's still the same after an oil change fit a new pressure sender as Mad Hat says.
 
Do NOT be tempted to use thicker oil than a 40/50 at worst.
Too thick doesn't flow well and bearings die.

There's only so m,any reasons why oil pressure can go down.

You pays your money and takes your choice where to start.

But, as the light goes on and off, do get it gauged first!
There may be no problem with pressure at all, just a dodgy £5 sender that takes ten minutesm to change.

CharlesY
 
And then move on to the oil pick up strainer in the sump if the sender proves to be OK. Diesels go all sludgy if oil isn't changed regular, especialy if on a lot of short journeys
 
Ok so ive changed the sender - no difference, changed oil and filter - made it slightly worse! Have upped tickover speed which has stopped light showing so much but im paranoid now and contemplating dropping the sump - what to check? thanks steve
 
Biggest cause is that crankshaft main bearings are worn - yu're basically at the point of having to drop the sump anyway so cheap will be blocked strainer and expensive will be new bearings and shells and a poss regrind of crankshaft. Good article here for you to - worth a read befroe you go further

Low Oil Pressure
 
Am in the throws of removing the sump - only rounded off 3 of the screws! I know big ends can be replaced in situ but what about mains? thanks steve
 
Unfortunately, mains will require strip down front timing gear and gearbox/flywheel removal - I've never heard of replacement in situ. However, you should get an idea of wear by dropping one of the caps off and inspecting the shell. I would advise replacing big end bearings as a matter of course anyway while you've got it down this far regardless of what you find - unless anyone has other advice to add?
 
Thanks Miles! sump off, pump stripped - nothing obvious. Big end caps off - still plenty of whitemetal but they do look polished in the top shell. struggling to undo main caps in situ - difficult upside down! Does this look like engine out again? steve
 
dunno if yu can do it on yo pump - but one of the tricks we used to do to oil pumps is to put a 1/4" (5mm) spacer behind the pressure relief spring to increase the relief pressure. Might be worth considering if yu have it in pieces and is practical.
 
What was the end float clearance like on your oil pump? Should be between .026 and .0135mm for a 200tdi. Worth checking while you've got it opened up
 
Thanks Miles n Hatman. Latest update. Ive borrow 3/4 drive impact gun and main brg caps now off nos 2 - 4. Can get upper half out too by using piece plastic shimm to push it round crank - similaar to big ends - no catastrophic failure, just shiny portion in centre portion of each shell, no grooving or signs of backing showing thro. Is this bad news or would a small amount of wear on each shell give me low oil pressure at hot tickover? With regards to the relief valve spring, how much compression should there be as sndard? this one squashes up about 6mm, will check end float on gears. thanks steve
 
steve52 said:
Thanks Miles n Hatman. Latest update. Ive borrow 3/4 drive impact gun and main brg caps now off nos 2 - 4. Can get upper half out too by using piece plastic shimm to push it round crank - similar to big ends - no catastrophic failure, just shiny portion in centre portion of each shell, no grooving or signs of backing showing thro. Is this bad news or would a small amount of wear on each shell give me low oil pressure at hot tickover? - No it shouldnt - wot yu describe is normal polishing - there are no score marks? With regards to the relief valve spring, how much compression should there be as standard? - that depends on the pump - I am not familiar with the RR one. this one squashes up about 6mm, will check end float on gears. thanks steve If it only squashes 6mm - i wud be reluctant to fit a 6mm spacer - otherwise - no pressure relief - maybe a 3mm spacer if yu can, but yu need to check pressure before and after with a pressure gauge
Click to expand...

:)
 
Land Rover engine parts supplier for TD5, 300TDI, 200TDI, 2.25 petrol, 2.25 diesel, 2.5 petrol, 2.5 diesel, 2.5 turbo diesel, V8, VM

are offering a repair kit for 200 tdi oil pump at 25 quid. Worth a look. Considering your description, I would spend time really checking the oil pump - be a right bugger to replace shells and all that work to find it was the pump all the time! (which it is pointing to now). MHM is dead right in my opinion!
(By the by, as a matter of interest, mm-4X4.com are offering Big end Bearing set for 200 tdi at 10.71 and MB set at 14.83. I've dealt with them before and can vouch for their service).
 
Put the mains back nice and tight, fit new big end shells, and do the PUMP.

First thing to check is the relief valve isn't partly jammed open by swarf or a bit of crud.

After that, replace the damned pump.

CharlesY
 
Ive just spoken with a very nice Lady at Turner engineering - I was enquiring about oil pump repair kit - she advised me not to waste my money - they have experience of cam bearing spinning in housing giving the exact symptoms im experiencing - anyone else had this problem? thanks steve
 
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