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Thanks Mate, That's another Idea to think about.
I guarantee you will. But, that's what happens when you build a car, you hit problems. Happens to all of us, so don't worry about it!
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Well weather is changing now so just about got my Shed / garage whatever you want to call it nearly done now. apart from roof leaking but gonna fix that tomorrow, I know as much about building sheds as I do about building Defenders, and that's not a lot.
Anyway I can actually see it now and get around it, so gonna concentrate on getting chassis stripped then when rear cross member is finally welded on I've got someone local to sandblast it. then see where I go from there.
.Anyway I can actually see it now and get around it, so gonna concentrate on getting chassis stripped then when rear cross member is finally welded on I've got someone local to sandblast it. then see where I go from there.
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I mean the big black cylinder that's attached to it, also another bottle type thing underneath.
Sorry! Some of them were fitted with a levelling device. That's it, I reckon
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What the Fu!!!k I hope it is working tooI think it's part number NRC7050
I've just looked it up, I hope your is working!
could nearly by a Galvanised chassis for that price.From what I've just read seems like you can do away with them, might just go that way. Mine seems to be in good order, might get decent money for it.
AS far as I'm aware they were optional on the 110. So, presumably, you can do without it.What the Fu!!!k I hope it is working too
From what I've just read seems like you can do away with them, might just go that way. Mine seems to be in good order, might get decent money for it.
On the bright side, you got even better value for money with that buy Hicap phill
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The big black "thing" was also fitted to early RRC. Yes you can do without it. Only makes the motor look level with loads of weight in the back/tow hitch.
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I know Hope I find more surprises along the way. No wonder everyone who has seen it has tried to buy it from me.AS far as I'm aware they were optional on the 110. So, presumably, you can do without it.
bluedog333
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I guarantee that self-levelling unit doesn’t work anymore, they stopped working about 2 weeks after they left the factory! You can just leave it in place for a bit of nostalgia. When purchasing shocks and springs, just choose ones for a Landy with no levelling unit fitted and you’ll be good.
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Need to take it off anyway as stripping all bits off chassis to get it sandblasted, probably just leave it off.
Thanks
Retroanaconda
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Some still work, and if it does then I’d leave it on. The self-leveller combined with the softer springs for vehicles equipped as such makes for a much nicer ride than the usual ‘fix’ of just buying the commercial heavier springs.
Later station wagon vehicles used progressive springs instead of the leveller which goes someway to resolving this, but it’s still a compromise.
Later station wagon vehicles used progressive springs instead of the leveller which goes someway to resolving this, but it’s still a compromise.
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Nothing exciting but just thought id share as really pleased with myself for getting the engine and box off on my own. without breaking anything along the way,
Can strip the rest of the chassis now and try and get that dreaded rear crossmember sorted out, then hopefully ready for sandblasting.
Can strip the rest of the chassis now and try and get that dreaded rear crossmember sorted out, then hopefully ready for sandblasting.
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Hicap phill
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No they need to be bolted to allow movement.
If you do take them off they are handed.
If you do take them off they are handed.
