nobber · Jan 30, 2018

Yes it would , anything is possible, but just fix and galvanise what you have, it would work out much cheaper, less hassle and the cash you save will go towards other things. Have a go at costing up a front axle rebuild, new brake calipers and suspension for the front, you will find that its far from cheap and give you a taste for how much this is all going to cost. One of my front hubs, not including brakes or suspension bits was just over a hundred quid, you will be surprised how the cost soon builds up.

border · Jan 30, 2018

nobber said:
Yes it would , anything is possible, but just fix and galvanise what you have, it would work out much cheaper, less hassle and the cash you save will go towards other things. Have a go at costing up a front axle rebuild, new brake calipers and suspension for the front, you will find that its far from cheap and give you a taste for how much this is all going to cost. One of my front hubs, not including brakes or suspension bits was just over a hundred quid, you will be surprised how the cost soon builds up.

Just thought I might make a cheeky offer. If it was not going to be to much hassle to modify it. although there is quite a bit of hassle to get mine right. depends which one was easier if I could get it at the right price.
I have been looking at prices for axle parts and your right, some seem cheap but when you add a full rebuild up bearings, hubs etc it all mounts up.

nobber · Jan 30, 2018

Thats it, and you want to be using OEM parts where ever possible. If you could save the money for a new galvy chassis that would be the best option but they arnt cheap. Get fixing yours costed up then you can make a better , informed decision. How bad is yours on the inside? Even some bits on the outside look fairly ropey.

border · Jan 30, 2018

nobber said:
Thats it, and you want to be using OEM parts where ever possible. If you could save the money for a new galvy chassis that would be the best option but they arnt cheap. Get fixing yours costed up then you can make a better , informed decision. How bad is yours on the inside? Even some bits on the outside look fairly ropey.

Got to find someone that can weld the rear crossmember and front outriggers on, I know plenty of welders but don't think any of them could line things up correctly, on a Defender chassis. Just waiting to catch the right person.

border · Jan 30, 2018

Back to the parts. they the rest finally arrived today, came back from work at dinner time but did not go back it took me all afternoon to empty them all. I'm no expert but I would say 99 percent of parts are here to fully rebuild.
Got a couple of nice surprises too. even found the two front outrigger.
The guy who has started has obviously thought ahead as he has bought a load of repair panels from Y R M, he has even labelled everything at one time but most of them have fallen off.

Al2O3 · Jan 30, 2018

border said:
Back to the parts. they the rest finally arrived today, came back from work at dinner time but did not go back it took me all afternoon to empty them all. I'm no expert but I would say 99 percent of parts are here to fully rebuild.
Got a couple of nice surprises too. even found the two front outrigger.
The guy who has started has obviously thought ahead as he has bought a load of repair panels from Y R M, he has even labelled everything at one time but most of them have fallen off.

And that's just a sample of what you've got? Nice

New clutch, new set of poly-bushes, new trailing arms, new outriggers. You've done well there.

border · Jan 30, 2018

Al2O3 said:
And that's just a sample of what you've got? Nice New clutch, new set of poly-bushes, new trailing arms, new outriggers. You've done well there.

Did you notice the new callipers and pads.

nobber · Jan 30, 2018

That lot will save you a fair few quid. I wouldn't let a welder line anything up, you have no datum point to go from, jig it all up your self, then you know its right, just get the welder to melt steel for you. Building a jig will be easy , just sit down and stare at it for a while, you will figure it out.

I would be more concerned with this part of the chassis, its hard to see from the photos but those A Frame bracket mounting points look a bit ropey? When the old rear cross member is off you will get a good look inside the chassis, this will allow you to make an educated guess as to how bad it is inside, at that point it may be worth trying to clean the inside but I don't know how doable that would be with it sitting on a jig.

Al2O3 · Jan 30, 2018

border said:
Did you notice the new callipers and pads.

Yes I did. Sorry, forgot those

border · Jan 30, 2018

nobber said:
That lot will save you a fair few quid. I wouldn't let a welder line anything up, you have no datum point to go from, jig it all up your self, then you know its right, just get the welder to melt steel for you. Building a jig will be easy , just sit down and stare at it for a while, you will figure it out.

I would be more concerned with this part of the chassis, its hard to see from the photos but those A Frame bracket mounting points look a bit ropey? When the old rear cross member is off you will get a good look inside the chassis, this will allow you to make an educated guess as to how bad it is inside, at that point it may be worth trying to clean the inside but I don't know how doable that would be with it sitting on a jig.

View attachment 140694

I thought that to about the a frame brackets , [ now I know what they are called ]

when I looked at photos before it arrived, but after looking at them now they don't look that bad will give them a brush and clean to see how they turn out.
Can they be replaced and welded on??

nobber · Jan 30, 2018

border said:
I thought that to about the a frame brackets , [ now I know what they are called ] when I looked at photos before it arrived, but after looking at them now they don't look that bad will give them a brush and clean to see how they turn out.
Can they be replaced and welded on??

You could certianly fabricate some new ones, I dont know if YRM do them, sometimes surface rust makes things look a lot worse than they are, clean them up and see how it goes.

border · Jan 30, 2018

nobber said:
You could certianly fabricate some new ones, I dont know if YRM do them, sometimes surface rust makes things look a lot worse than they are, clean them up and see how it goes.

Will Do I'm not far from Y R M,

border · Feb 1, 2018

A Frame brackets look OK just surface rust should clean up good.
Been to a couple of local Land rover specialists today to ask about the rear crossmember. one said he could weld it on by measuring another identical chassis but could not guarantee that it would be lined up correctly.
The other said that bulkhead rear body and doors would have to be fitted to get it right.
Still cant get my head round making a Jig

as think it will be my best option.
Please forgive me if this is a stupid question but would a Crossmember with shorter or even no extensions be easier??
Thanks Everyone for help and advice so far.

Al2O3 · Feb 1, 2018

border said:
A Frame brackets look OK just surface rust should clean up good.
Been to a couple of local Land rover specialists today to ask about the rear crossmember. one said he could weld it on by measuring another identical chassis but could not guarantee that it would be lined up correctly.
The other said that bulkhead rear body and doors would have to be fitted to get it right.
Still cant get my head round making a Jig as think it will be my best option.
Please forgive me if this is a stupid question but would a Crossmember with shorter or even no extensions be easier??
Thanks Everyone for help and advice so far.

Those brackets do look like they will be ok.
If I was in your position I'd temporarily fit the rear tub and then locate the rear cross-member. Clamp or tack weld in place, then take the tub back off and full weld up. It's not much of a job to bolt the tub in place. You will need to prepare the tub, especially the floor and its cross members and new rubber pads that it sits on. With this prep you stand the best chance of getting the tub in the right place and, therefore, the rear cross-member welded in the right place. This really is CRUCIAL for everything else to fit later. Don't worry though, it's not that tricky, you'll just need to read a few rebuild threads on here and keep asking questions.
Oh, and once you've got your tub temporarily bolted in place. Get your mobile welder guy (or woman) in, get them to tack it. Take the tub off while they're there. It won't take long, and then they can weld it fully.
The longer extensions on a cross member are handy if the chassis rails are rusted back a bit, or because they give you more of an overlap and so a stronger job. Might be worth considering if you intend to tow heavy stuff.

border · Feb 1, 2018

OK I can get this Quite cheap, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Now would it be easier / cheaper/ quicker ? to get engine mountings welded on for my 300tdi ? or go through all the hassle of getting mine ready for rear crosmember??? to 300 Tdi
Cheers

Al2O3 · Feb 1, 2018

border said:
OK I can get this Quite cheap, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-110-TD5-Fully-Galvanised-Chassis/323038516256?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Now would it be easier / cheaper/ quicker ? to get engine mountings welded on for my 300tdi ? or go through all the hassle of getting mine ready for rear crosmember??? to 300 Tdi
Cheers

It's not hassle, it's just the fun of building your vehicle! Seriously, if you are thinking setting up the rear cross member is going to be hassle then you've got a nightmare ahead of you. You'll lose the galvanised protection on the chassis where you get the engine mounts welded on. I've no idea what other differences there are between the TD5 chassis and yours. Someone else will have to help you out with that. Have you got a quote for galvanising your chassis? My advice would be to read up a bit on how to build your Landy, before you make decisions about buying another chassis etc.

nobber · Feb 2, 2018

You cannot fit a tub on that accurately from looking at the photos, the mounting brackets across the top of the rear cross member are gone arnt they? Can you post a pic of the rear cross member on the chassis? there will be datum points to work from somewhere.

border · Feb 2, 2018

nobber said:
You cannot fit a tub on that accurately from looking at the photos, the mounting brackets across the top of the rear cross member are gone arnt they? Can you post a pic of the rear cross member on the chassis? there will be datum points to work from somewhere.

Yes Mounting brackets are gone, will get some photos today Mate

border · Feb 2, 2018

More pics sorry I could not get one directly from behind.

border · Feb 3, 2018

My new Crossmember has not got this rail on it, could this one be cut off and welded back on to the new one, ?? think only one end will need to be cut.,
That's if I ever get round to getting it done.

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