Doesn't need programming. Just plug it in.
There isn't a way to test it unfortunately, unless you have a mate that'll lend you one.
I bought one second hand as there is no way to guarantee success. It just shows a different mileage now which wasn't a problem for the M.O.T, but could be an issue over there.
I paid £30.
Only thing you need to do is get one from a facelift model 2004 onwards.
Mike
 
Just did my second transmission fluid change and an odd thing happened. I drained the fluid out and just under 4L came out. Put back in 4L, ran car you to temp and was going to test the temp of the fluid from the overflow, no extra oil came out at all! Should the tranny take more then 4L?

Also whilst getting the car up to temp no f4 and no hdc then ran through the gears on the auto box, then about 1 min later the f4 and hdc are back.

Another new development that may have always been an issue but never checked is that i noticed the tiptronic gears are not working even when the f4 and hdc are not on.

Will put more tranny fluid in the box in the morning as shops are closed now here in oz.

Thanks Skinny, looks like I'll bite the bullet on the ipack.
 
Just over 4 litres is correct, sometimes 4.5 is closer to correct. It seams to vary a bit between vehicles. By up to temperature, what do you mean? The transmission fluid needs to be between 35°C and 45°C for fluid level checking. I use 40°C simply because it's between the two extremes. What fluid are you using? as the Jatco box can be fussy on fluid types.
 
Sorry i meant the '35-45°' when i said up to temp. Doing it old school with a thermometer.

Ok I'll put more in until i get some out of the overflow. I'm putting in what was recommended to me by my LR parts manager its a full synthetic by penrite, as the stealership wanted $104 per litre for their stuff (yes i did type $104 per litre, roughly £50 per litre) so as i was leaving the parts manager caught up to me and recommended the fluid i have now put in.

I know the box is picky about fluid but i was hoping that with the upgrade in atf these days that as long as it was quality stuff it should be ok, plus i trusted the LR guys advice, should i not have?
 
Penrite do a compatible fluid that far exceeds the original Texaco N402 spec. So as long as you use that compatible fluid, you'll be fine. ;)
 
The tiptronic is usually a switch issue under the gear selector panel.
Just a thought. Have you tried removing the TCM computer, leaving it off the car over night, then put it back on.
It's highly doubtful this will fix it. But it's free to try.
Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
The tiptronic is usually a switch issue under the gear selector panel.
Just a thought. Have you tried removing the TCM computer, leaving it off the car over night, then put it back on.
It's highly doubtful this will fix it. But it's free to try.
Mike
Click to expand...

Don't forget that Land Rover call manual gear selection "Command Shift"!! Tiptronic is a BMW term for there similar system. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Don't forget that Land Rover call manual gear selection "Command Shift"!! Tiptronic is a BMW term for there similar system. ;)
Click to expand...

Hhmmm, Land Rover car, BMW engine, Mazda derived Jatco gearbox.
More like cross your fingers shift. Although, this is the one part of my auto system that hasn't ever failed......yet.
:)
Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
Hhmmm, Land Rover car, BMW engine, Mazda derived Jatco gearbox.
More like cross your fingers shift. Although, this is the one part of my auto system that hasn't ever failed......yet.
:)
Mike
Click to expand...

I don't like to use the BMW term, simply because I don't like BMWs. The TD4 engine is the worst part of the Freelander imho. I don't mind the other parts bin components though. ;)
 
So an update.

I got a ful diog done on the FL and this is the list.
Before i write out the list the codes were cleared and she ran great for 40mins and the f4 hdc has now come back. Also the codes on there i do not know what codes are old codes that were never cleared so i will be get another diog done tomorrow to confirm.

Engine codes x 2
7685 cruise control operating element - malfunction
5651 smooth running control

ABS/ASR codes x 3
5E14 CAN communication with engine control unit - no CAN message
5E1A engine speed signal - signal error
5E17 CAN communication with transmission control unit - message error

Airbag codes x 4
9008 driver side front airbag - resistance too high
9048 front right belt tensioner - resistance too high
9044 front left belt tensioner - resistance too high
9043 front left belt tensioner - resistance too low

JATCO code x 1
P1748 PWM solenoid valve 2-4 gear, brake - open circuit/earth/positive short

Instrument cluster codes x 3
7 internal bus monitoring - bus fault
9 communication with engine control unit - bus fault
5 automatic transmission - system in emergency operation

Immobilizer codes x 1
AE02 control unit reset - control units reset

So im gonna work my way through these codes, im assuming my issues will be the p1748 solenoid, abs faults and clustwr faults.

But as i said i dont know if some of these are old codes that were not cleared, my head tells me that these are still issues considering the srs, hdc and f4 issues. Will double check with another diog tomorrow.

But if anyone has any ideas on each or whats the main problem that would be awesome, as ive never seen this many error codes before on any car!!
 
When mine went tits up, it produced loads of codes, not quite that many, but not far off.
If you can get your hands on a second hand display binnacle, try it before you tip the car to bits.
Mike
 
The shift solenoid code is the root cause of a lot of the other codes as well as backs up what’s actually happening on the car with gear changes etc.

So personally I’d investigate and resolve that first as it’ll clear a lot of the CAN codes anyway as the TCM isn’t sending correct data out due to fault and that’s why the other modules flag a fault

Good luck
 
Skinny Mike said:
When mine went tits up, it produced loads of codes, not quite that many, but not far off.
If you can get your hands on a second hand display binnacle, try it before you tip the car to bits.
Mike
Click to expand...
Yeah a few have said a new ipack will do the trick. Definitly my next port of call.
 
td4van said:
The shift solenoid code is the root cause of a lot of the other codes as well as backs up what’s actually happening on the car with gear changes etc.

So personally I’d investigate and resolve that first as it’ll clear a lot of the CAN codes anyway as the TCM isn’t sending correct data out due to fault and that’s why the other modules flag a fault

Good luck
Click to expand...
Its either that or the ipack. The solenoid code is the code that comes up the most.

How easy is it to change, also will i need to change both brake solenoids as there are 2 2-4 solenoids within the box?
 
I doubt with the issues you’re seeing it’s the Ipack

There’s a guide on here on how to change solenoids - relatively easy depending on your skills and tools/equipment you have!
 
Co
td4van said:
I doubt with the issues you’re seeing it’s the Ipack

There’s a guide on here on how to change solenoids - relatively easy depending on your skills and tools/equipment you have!
Click to expand...
Coo I'll check it out. Got pretty much everything i could need so shouldnt be too hard, just finding the time.

Fingers crossed.
 
A friend is suggesting that the speed sensors will be up **** creek also? not sure how much experience he has with LR but he knows his cars in general. is this likely, I did get an engine speed signal error code? not sure if the sensors would be in the box or not. had a search on here and google in general and couldn't find much
 
The speed sensor code is thrown up by the gearbox when F4 comes on. This can be ignored. The speed sensor is one of 3 in the gearbox, used by the tcm ti determine gear changes, it'll be fine.
The actual sensors that may need looking at are the abs sensors. One for each wheel, but these would show up as abs sensor faults.
Mike
 
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