KiwiTDI
Active Member
You would know if you had abs swivel parts as the top swivel bearing is a bush with abs and the bottom a roller bearing, whereas both top and bottom would be taper roller bearings if non abs. Its possible a car originally with abs has had the swivel parts swapped out for non abs........
The reason the top swivel bearing is a bush for abs is that abs sensor pushes down through the middle of it to get to the serrated coupling outer inside the swivel.
The reason the top swivel bearing is a bush for abs is that abs sensor pushes down through the middle of it to get to the serrated coupling outer inside the swivel.
Chrisw8
Well-Known Member
**** YET ANOTHER UPDATE ****
ok.
Piccies of new swivel ball with Seal, and Bearing races fitted.
So time to remove brake disk ready for new one. another 5 minute job. LOL
Remove bolts using the wheel to hold everything.
20mins bashing later .......... OOooooops
was just about to set fire to the Disco, and noticed a weeny gap appeared.
so, more bashing with large hammer .......... taaa daaaa
off it came.
all cleaned up, and threads cleaned out.....
now more questions........
Should I 'copper slip' the new disc on, or is it meant to go on dry ??
and
stub axle seal......
which way does it go in ??
piccy 1 or piccy 2 ?
piccy1
piccy2
thanks for all your help so far.
ok.
Piccies of new swivel ball with Seal, and Bearing races fitted.
So time to remove brake disk ready for new one. another 5 minute job. LOL
Remove bolts using the wheel to hold everything.
20mins bashing later .......... OOooooops
was just about to set fire to the Disco, and noticed a weeny gap appeared.
so, more bashing with large hammer .......... taaa daaaa
off it came.
all cleaned up, and threads cleaned out.....
now more questions........
Should I 'copper slip' the new disc on, or is it meant to go on dry ??
and
stub axle seal......
which way does it go in ??
piccy 1 or piccy 2 ?
piccy1
piccy2
thanks for all your help so far.
Chrisw8
Well-Known Member
***** ALMOST LAST UPDATE ***** LOL
Ok, piccies of the rebuild......
Fitted swivel ball with new bolts, just about to tighten it all up........
Then removed it........ and refitted with new bolts and old washers !!!!
fitted the housing and with the 'big seal' still disconnected, I adjusted shims to get a tension of about 1.5kg. (Haynes recommends 1.16 - 1.46kg)
Happy with that, I fitted the oil seal and plate.
THEN IT CHUCKED IT DOWN !!!!!
So back in the garage......
Put the seal in the stub axle, all the way in and this way round.....(hope that's correct)
Fitted the bearing......
But I feel I might have pushed it in a fraction too far ....
Any opinions.
Fitted new disk and bolts....
That's as far as I got.
Nearly finished.
Few more questions.........
The preload tension in Haynes recommends 1.16-1.46 with no seal on , (which is what I near enough got). and with seal fitted, I got about 4.5 - 5kg.
Does this seem enough ?
and.
I think I put the stub axle bearing in a tad too far ..... about 1-2mm, (looking at my photos of the old one).
would this be ok?.
Ok, piccies of the rebuild......
Fitted swivel ball with new bolts, just about to tighten it all up........
Then removed it........ and refitted with new bolts and old washers !!!!
fitted the housing and with the 'big seal' still disconnected, I adjusted shims to get a tension of about 1.5kg. (Haynes recommends 1.16 - 1.46kg)
Happy with that, I fitted the oil seal and plate.
THEN IT CHUCKED IT DOWN !!!!!
So back in the garage......
Put the seal in the stub axle, all the way in and this way round.....(hope that's correct)
Fitted the bearing......
But I feel I might have pushed it in a fraction too far ....
Any opinions.
Fitted new disk and bolts....
That's as far as I got.
Nearly finished.
Few more questions.........
The preload tension in Haynes recommends 1.16-1.46 with no seal on , (which is what I near enough got). and with seal fitted, I got about 4.5 - 5kg.
Does this seem enough ?
and.
I think I put the stub axle bearing in a tad too far ..... about 1-2mm, (looking at my photos of the old one).
would this be ok?.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
seal goes in as far as it can ,swivel load is correct ,if you have top and bottom bearing you need little preload compared to top bush type
Chrisw8
Well-Known Member
WELL I DIDN'T FINISH IT !!!!!
here's what I got done today................
went to fit the stub axle, but couldn't find the outside plate........HOW COULD I LOOSE THAT!!!!
so , trip upto Bearmach, nearly 4quid lighter ......
fitted.
next job........fill up with one-shot
then re-attach ball joints ....... another 5 minute job !!!!
huh...... first of all I couldn't get the track rod one anywhere near the hole.
Had to think about this one for about 20mins, then realised the axle stand had sunk into the tarmac about an inch. a quick lift with jack , and got it in............
then........
both ball joints decided to spin while doing up the bolts .......
after another 20min think.......I found that this worked....
great big bar from under the chassis to top of ball joints done the trick.!!!
Not sure if that's a recognised method.
Haynes recommend torque nuts to 40 n/m. that seemed a bit low, so I gave them a bit more.
fitted new wheel bearings and greased them up.
adjusted bearings as best I could.....first nut up tight, then release till wheel spins freely.
fitted lock nut and washer.
and that's as far as I got before bad light stopped play.
so, i'm almost there.
few questions re: brake calipers
Ive got new pads to fit.
How do I push in the pistons without breaking something ?
is there a special tool ?
here's what I got done today................
went to fit the stub axle, but couldn't find the outside plate........HOW COULD I LOOSE THAT!!!!
so , trip upto Bearmach, nearly 4quid lighter ......
fitted.
next job........fill up with one-shot
then re-attach ball joints ....... another 5 minute job !!!!
huh...... first of all I couldn't get the track rod one anywhere near the hole.
Had to think about this one for about 20mins, then realised the axle stand had sunk into the tarmac about an inch. a quick lift with jack , and got it in............
then........
both ball joints decided to spin while doing up the bolts .......
after another 20min think.......I found that this worked....
great big bar from under the chassis to top of ball joints done the trick.!!!
Not sure if that's a recognised method.
Haynes recommend torque nuts to 40 n/m. that seemed a bit low, so I gave them a bit more.
fitted new wheel bearings and greased them up.
adjusted bearings as best I could.....first nut up tight, then release till wheel spins freely.
fitted lock nut and washer.
and that's as far as I got before bad light stopped play.
so, i'm almost there.
few questions re: brake calipers
Ive got new pads to fit.
How do I push in the pistons without breaking something ?
is there a special tool ?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
lever on t/rod is a recognised method ,just refit caliper and slowly prise pistons back,you might find it helps to chock once fully back before moving on the next one ,have you got seal fitted right way round in pic its hard to tell with so much grease
Chrisw8
Well-Known Member
A POX ON IT !!!!!!!
so........
fitted circlip and shims
.......... dustcap and callipers
Thought I'd get a proper tool to push back pistons (not use a screwdriver like I used to on my motorbikes !!!) ....
and oooooooo, this is a bit stiff , get wrench on it...........
boinggggg......tool goes flying off....my thumb follows the line of the wheel arch
........ and time to play spot the broken bit 
MY CUP FLOWETH OVER !!!
Chrisw8
Well-Known Member
***** FINAL UPDATE ******
So another trip to Bearmach for new calliper.
I think I'll leave my c.card behind the counter, as I'm up there so often !!!
calliper, pads , pipes .... all fitted
Bleed the fluid with Eezybleed.
All done.
Bunged the wheel back on. Took it for a drive.
Steering good.
Brakes good.
No wheel wobble.
I Think I've cracked it.
What an expensive oil leak !!!!!
Thanks to everyone who have given me advice and putting up with my numpty questions.
Blimey ...... 1180+ views.
(I'll have a look at the other wheel next week.)
So another trip to Bearmach for new calliper.
I think I'll leave my c.card behind the counter, as I'm up there so often !!!
calliper, pads , pipes .... all fitted
Bleed the fluid with Eezybleed.
All done.
Bunged the wheel back on. Took it for a drive.
Steering good.
Brakes good.
No wheel wobble.
I Think I've cracked it.
What an expensive oil leak !!!!!
Thanks to everyone who have given me advice and putting up with my numpty questions.
Blimey ...... 1180+ views.
(I'll have a look at the other wheel next week.)
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
youve done the best thing in the end , did you get a caliper for other side too
