Land Raver
Well-Known Member
lol and football stadium light bar on roof!
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
When you've all QUITE finished Miami-Vicing our Landy...
Big box of bits off L-R-P-S arrived just now - followed almost immediately by a second courier, with a big box from Laithwaites wine. Great start to the day!
Land Raver
Well-Known Member
good combo - makes for happy spannering!
Philcard
Member
Did you ever get your steering wheel? Spotted this one on our local 'Wightbay' site - was put up at end of July but might be still there.
Steering Wheel Landrover Original in Newport, Isle Of Wight
Steering Wheel Landrover Original in Newport, Isle Of Wight
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
I've not sorted one yet - have to admit, I prefer the "old-school" three-spoke to that (Defender-style?) four-spoke. It's a ways off, anyway...
The bullbar has now closed on eBay - £30. I'm not going to retire off it, but it's better than scrap money - and it seems to be going to a good home.
Anyway - question time again... I've got a brake pipe flaring tool here, but don't have the first clue what thread unions or size pipe I'm going to need. The main pipe across the front crossmember's crusty, and the ones between the TLS wheel cylinders are toast. Yes, I could dismantle and measure the existing thread, but I'm quite fond of being able to move the big ol' lump of tin...
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
Oh, gawd! SEALED BEAM LIGHTS! <points, laughs>
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TooMany2cvs
Active Member
So we move two steps forward, one slight shuffle backwards.
The pile of boxes in the back of the Landy get ever bigger, and virtually everything is now here. The other day, I pulled the alternator off to chuck a set of brushes in, see if that would get it charging... It didn't. But it DID get me VERY, very greasy indeed.
Hey-ho. A quick rummage found that EuroCarParts' ebay brand - CarParts4Less - was flogging 40A "D90/100/Jag XJ" alternators on eBay for £35, delivered, no exchange required. Seems rude not to take advantage of that.
So this morning's seen the engine bay pressure-washed, and the beginnings of a good service done. Except the new rotor arm seems to have hidden somewhere. And the old one didn't seem to like the new dist cap. Or the old one any more.
Finally, it fired again - and the charge light's off - but it doesn't seem to idle quite as smoothly as it did. The anti-run-on solenoid doesn't seem the best of fits into it's thread on the carb, and disconnecting it doesn't stop the engine. Still, it's running well enough to get a bit of warmth into it, to help drain the oil - at which point, I find out that there's more in the sump than'll fit in my drain tray. Filter off, and the can was full of a lot of thick gungey sludge. Then a ten-minute battle to get the new O-ring to sit and stay in the groove, which ended with the dawning realisation that the old one might still be in there. It was. Refill with oil, move it to drip on the grass... and now the starter's decided to stick and just spin without touching the flywheel. <sigh>
The pile of boxes in the back of the Landy get ever bigger, and virtually everything is now here. The other day, I pulled the alternator off to chuck a set of brushes in, see if that would get it charging... It didn't. But it DID get me VERY, very greasy indeed.
Hey-ho. A quick rummage found that EuroCarParts' ebay brand - CarParts4Less - was flogging 40A "D90/100/Jag XJ" alternators on eBay for £35, delivered, no exchange required. Seems rude not to take advantage of that.
So this morning's seen the engine bay pressure-washed, and the beginnings of a good service done. Except the new rotor arm seems to have hidden somewhere. And the old one didn't seem to like the new dist cap. Or the old one any more.
Finally, it fired again - and the charge light's off - but it doesn't seem to idle quite as smoothly as it did. The anti-run-on solenoid doesn't seem the best of fits into it's thread on the carb, and disconnecting it doesn't stop the engine. Still, it's running well enough to get a bit of warmth into it, to help drain the oil - at which point, I find out that there's more in the sump than'll fit in my drain tray. Filter off, and the can was full of a lot of thick gungey sludge. Then a ten-minute battle to get the new O-ring to sit and stay in the groove, which ended with the dawning realisation that the old one might still be in there. It was. Refill with oil, move it to drip on the grass... and now the starter's decided to stick and just spin without touching the flywheel. <sigh>
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
Oh, and the reason for the engine bay being awash in oil was obvious with the rocker cover off. About half of the gasket, on the manifold side, was either missing or completely dislocated inside the cover.
dominicbeesley
Well-Known Member
Anti run on solenoid? What carb has it got on it?
If you pressure washed under the bonnet I'd suspect that something to do with the ignition is damp...
Stuck Bendix on starter motor - pull motor out and free off and grease the bendix cog...shouldn't be too horrid a job if you cleaned the engine!
PS: Is the charge lamp on before the engine starts?
If you pressure washed under the bonnet I'd suspect that something to do with the ignition is damp...
Stuck Bendix on starter motor - pull motor out and free off and grease the bendix cog...shouldn't be too horrid a job if you cleaned the engine!
PS: Is the charge lamp on before the engine starts?
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
Solenoid on left of main carb body, just behind the crankcase breather stuff.
All that good fun on the right is EGR... Take a good look, it won't be there long. Somebody's clearly swapped the exhaust manifold at some stage, because it's been disconnected from that end, and there's nowhere for it to plug to. Oh, what a terrible loss... If it wasn't for the carb closure-slowing dashpot (the rearmost bit) being solidly attached somewhere round the back, it'd already be off.
902 suffix E engine number.
Oh, and all the post-wash oiliness? I missed whilst refilling.
You'd think so - but apparently not. I swapped the HT over after washing, and had a spark at the king lead, but not at a plug.
Famous last words... Easy to get at? I have had it starting on the handle, at any rate... <grin>
Yep, it's behaving itself exactly as you'd expect, and giving just north of 14v at the battery. Definitely charging.
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TooMany2cvs
Active Member
Yep. It actually ran out when I was test-driving it around the field before purchase...
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
Did European Zenith 36IVs have all that emissions crap on them? Your right to just take it all off.
If you rebuild the carb be sure to lap it on some MDF or glass with fine sandpaper so you get a flat mating surface. Just as you would do with a head gasket job after overheating etc... Fit an inline fuel fliter if it hasn't got one or your carb will gum up, if it already hasn't. You can plug up the hole in the metal spacer below the carb, with a bolt. I can't remember what size sorry!
Don't be tempted to buy a Zenith carb copy as a replacement, they are junk and made out of cheap parts.
If you rebuild the carb be sure to lap it on some MDF or glass with fine sandpaper so you get a flat mating surface. Just as you would do with a head gasket job after overheating etc... Fit an inline fuel fliter if it hasn't got one or your carb will gum up, if it already hasn't. You can plug up the hole in the metal spacer below the carb, with a bolt. I can't remember what size sorry!
Don't be tempted to buy a Zenith carb copy as a replacement, they are junk and made out of cheap parts.
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
...and FINALLY work actually starts on the brakes. (I only had to build the garage first!)
So one front corner is fully apart, surprisingly easily. Almost. Both wheel cylinders (11" TLS) seized solid, both snail cams rounded, flexi's seen better days, brake pipe from flexi to upper cylinder rotten, and a few nuts & unions without corners. On, and the drum retaining screws needed serious impact-driver abuse to remove, then the drum required serious club hammering... It would not turn by hand!
Question one... What order do the new snail cams go together in?
Obviously the hollow bolt comes in from the back, and the small bolt goes into the end, pressing the snail onto the splined section - but what order does the rest sit in? There's a thick stepped spacer/washer, the spring, a thicker washer and a thinner one.
Question two... The lower third of the swivel housing is THICK in dried-on greasy goop. Is this symptomatic of something I need/want/would be best to deal with NOW, or can I leave it until spring? It'd be really nice to have this damn thing on the road for when the weather turns...
So one front corner is fully apart, surprisingly easily. Almost. Both wheel cylinders (11" TLS) seized solid, both snail cams rounded, flexi's seen better days, brake pipe from flexi to upper cylinder rotten, and a few nuts & unions without corners. On, and the drum retaining screws needed serious impact-driver abuse to remove, then the drum required serious club hammering... It would not turn by hand!
Question one... What order do the new snail cams go together in?
Obviously the hollow bolt comes in from the back, and the small bolt goes into the end, pressing the snail onto the splined section - but what order does the rest sit in? There's a thick stepped spacer/washer, the spring, a thicker washer and a thinner one.
Question two... The lower third of the swivel housing is THICK in dried-on greasy goop. Is this symptomatic of something I need/want/would be best to deal with NOW, or can I leave it until spring? It'd be really nice to have this damn thing on the road for when the weather turns...
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TooMany2cvs
Active Member
Aha!
So 11" TLS would be "LWB four-pot", right? The smaller, silver, snail certainly matched what was on there, rather than the larger, black, snail.
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
So that's as far as I can get without yet more bits...
One rear back together fully (cylinder utterly seized, of course, barely rotated by hand, and hammer needed to remove drum), other rear (rotated freely, hammer still needed to remove drum, but cylinder seized) needs the oil leak from the hub sorting before I put anything shiny on. Rear axle brake pipes weren't rotten, but the unions were seized and rounded, so more snippage. The old, dead flexi undid from the front-rear, fortunately, so at least I've got an end to repiping...
The little bolt in one new snail (AllMakes) sheared, but at least I've got some spares, what with needing six and being in boxes of four...
Did I ever mention I hate drum brakes? No? Well, I do. 'orrible things. Surely the series Landy was the last new vehicle in the UK with drums all round...?
One rear back together fully (cylinder utterly seized, of course, barely rotated by hand, and hammer needed to remove drum), other rear (rotated freely, hammer still needed to remove drum, but cylinder seized) needs the oil leak from the hub sorting before I put anything shiny on. Rear axle brake pipes weren't rotten, but the unions were seized and rounded, so more snippage. The old, dead flexi undid from the front-rear, fortunately, so at least I've got an end to repiping...
The little bolt in one new snail (AllMakes) sheared, but at least I've got some spares, what with needing six and being in boxes of four...
Did I ever mention I hate drum brakes? No? Well, I do. 'orrible things. Surely the series Landy was the last new vehicle in the UK with drums all round...?
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
So - rear hub seals... All very wet and oily around the back of the hub. So the whole hub's going to have to come out, right.
And this is a mid '80 vehicle. Of course, that's when they changed the parts... So how do I tell which kit I need before dismantling? If I've got the "Post-June '80" front brakes, can we assume I've also got the "Post-June '80" rear hubs? Or might it not be QUITE that simple...? It was first reg in Nov '80.
And this is a mid '80 vehicle. Of course, that's when they changed the parts... So how do I tell which kit I need before dismantling? If I've got the "Post-June '80" front brakes, can we assume I've also got the "Post-June '80" rear hubs? Or might it not be QUITE that simple...? It was first reg in Nov '80.
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
Ah, life has moved on. With the help of all those who've answered a couple of other threads, we now have a Landy that's on all four wheels and damn near ready for the first attempt at an MOT since 2010. It's got to swing by a mate's workshop first, to stick the new outrigger on, but the half floor's already been out for access, so that should be straightforward.
Fingers crossed!
Fingers crossed!
TooMany2cvs
Active Member
It's insured, I've put ten miles on it now, and the MOT is booked for Thursday.
The clutch bites VERY high, and it won't idle when it's warm. But - apart from that... It's slow, noisy, bouncy, cramped, uncomfortable... and I bloody love it.
The clutch bites VERY high, and it won't idle when it's warm. But - apart from that... It's slow, noisy, bouncy, cramped, uncomfortable... and I bloody love it.
