gpovanman

New Member
I live over in Mallorca and have got quite a problem at the moment. My crank seal was a bit iffy when I bought it, and the time has come to get it done. I went to Land Rover, but they told me that not only do they not stock series 3 parts, they cannot get them, or do any work on the vehicles. I tracked down the part at a factors, but he mechanic that is doing the work says that the new seal, although the correct one, is letting oil pour through due to the fact that the old one has worn the crankshaft. Does anyone know if he is correct, or is he just incompetent?
 
Hy gpovanman,
Never heard of this problem in this particular application, but I am not that Land Rover specific, (see the avatar) I have seen this happen many times in other engineering applications, as, I am sure, certain other members on this forum have too.
The problem is well known in engineering circles and there is a proprietory brand fix available.
I know that Bearing Services Ltd. (B.S.L.) sell a kind of bush, which slips over the worn part of the shaft, (It's a tight fit) and under the oil seal. The oil seal then runs on new material which is presumably a few thou' larger in diameter than the old shaft.
Contact any branch of B.S.L. for further information.
By the way, do you own a cat ? if so, can I call you Pat? gpovanman is a mouthfull.
Cruisermik.
 
No I haven´t got a cat, soory! The problem has been sorta solved by my mechanic over here. (dont forget that I live in Mallorca) He says that he has pushed the seal in a little more, and that now it will not leak. He claims that with the hardening of the rubber over time, then the seal has worn a very slight groove on the crank. But this comes from a man who said originally that it would take a day and ahlf to do the job, and then took 5 to do it (3 days to replace the box) It seems that the car isnt losing any oil anymore, but I may briefly return to the UK in a couple of months to pick up another Landy, cos this one is a right dog, and the previous owner has bodged it right up. Never trust a copper....
 
Doesn´t live on Lupin Close in Accy does he? Gave you some claptrap about it being his son´s car, and he is based in Aldershot?
 
Hope you have better luck with yours, than I had with mine, cos I´ve had loadsa troble with mine. Cracked engine blocks just ain´t funny...
 
Speedisleeves are what your are looking for.

The crank does wear if the seal has gone brittle, as the metalspring that is inside the seal starts to touch the crank.
 
Series rear crank seals are just plain rubbish.
As said above speedi sleeves are bloody good.
 
I do think that speedy sleeves and similar can not be fitted to a 2.25 engine crank because the seal runs on a smaller land behind the flange that the clutch fits on. Been a long time since I have done one. Moving a seal position so it runs on an unworn part of the land is a common fix.
 
I don`t think you can fit a speedy sleeve, when I rebuilt mine Turners were very helpful and said that although the seals sometimes do give problems its a case of fitting it the best you can and hoping for the best. Sometimes your unlucky and they do leak badly but its normally it just a case of a slight weep, that you learn to live with.
When I think back to cars in the 70`s that I worked on nothing was really dry underneath, it always amazes me when I work on my current cars how clean and dry they are.
 
I do think that speedy sleeves and similar can not be fitted to a 2.25 engine crank because the seal runs on a smaller land behind the flange that the clutch fits on. Been a long time since I have done one. Moving a seal position so it runs on an unworn part of the land is a common fix.


I think you are right, and that is why the seal is a split type.
I changed mine on my 2 litre derv, which then carried on leaking only slightly less than before!
 
Someone who had worked on Series vehicles for years once told me that he had never had to replace a chassis cross member under the bellhousing.

They nearly all drip some amount of oil from that seal so that crossmember is said to rarely ever rust.
 
Holy revived threads Batman.:mad: I think the time/date at the bottom of the post should go red after a year or less
 
Holy revived threads Batman.:mad: I think the time/date at the bottom of the post should go red after a year or less

iu
 

Similar threads