Lol no worries, please check it before you spend money on a new one though!

start with the basics first mate disconnect maf then test drive if its still the same then

it might be best that you and also check and monitor boost pressures as well as other pressures within the system ...there was once I was over boosting but not enough for a fuel surge results was limp mode instantly and lets be honest my ECU will be different to another or it has it days
I argued this point a while back with some gurus on this forum of why I have so many gauges installed the reason being I like to look after my investment not that its worth much
 
Right I forgot to ask, should this unplugging off the maf sensor happen when cold or warm engine or does it not matter?
 
It' raining which has put me off replacing the driver side push in ball joints today but am happy to drive and test :)
 
Right I forgot to ask, should this unplugging off the maf sensor happen when cold or warm engine or does it not matter?

You are only unplugging the electrical connector, I would just say make sure the engine and ignition are off, tho I do not know if it makes a difference.

Drive it, stop it, turn it off, unplug it drive it again see if it makes a difference.

Cheers
 
Well it started to really bucket down so I didn' try unplugging it, today I have spent trying to change the bloody ball joints, what a stupid design, getting a press in there is a nightmare, tomorrow out comes the gas, I am not gonna mess about like I did today.
 
Well it started to really bucket down so I didn' try unplugging it, today I have spent trying to change the bloody ball joints, what a stupid design, getting a press in there is a nightmare, tomorrow out comes the gas, I am not gonna mess about like I did today.
i am I am lost????? the weather permitted you from opening the bonnet to un plug the maff sensor then test drive ? the bonnet latch frozen up ? time taking aproxx 4 minute process puts other minds at rest also

if the maff sensor is down then this gives you time to resource one while your doing ball joints... I am also guessing we are talking about the same vehicle unless you know something we don't and the ball joints hare affecting the drive line performance and bind up hence you asking about the XYZ switch

ps also stick to genuine the cheap maff sensors on ebay run a resister type this is then set to one value only instead of the heated strip type also check for any engine oil in the harness though out the system

just trying to cover some basics when the engine limp modes or losses power is there any tell tail signs out of the chimney (exhaust )
 
Ah well I am a bit crazy yes, when I say it rained, it was a downpour so couldn' be arsed to get soaked to be honest, the reason ball joints were more important was of mot today, so I focused on that, I am currently sitting in the disco on a ramp being mot'ed, was ment to be in at 11 this morning but didnt get ball joints done till 3.
I will unplug the maf after the mot.
 
Oh the reason I mentioned the xyz was it was only thing I could think of causing it to go into limp type mode, I have never had a vehicle with so many sensors and computer stuff, I am used to old Perkins and bmc engines.
 
Oh reference to the exhaust when in limp ish mode, it blows a tiny bit of smoke, brackish but only the once, then all seems fine.
 
Oh the reason I mentioned the xyz was it was only thing I could think of causing it to go into limp type mode, I have never had a vehicle with so many sensors and computer stuff, I am used to old Perkins and bmc engines.
the xyz is only an inhibitor switch this stops you from selecting wrong gears at the wrong time
however over the past XYZ failures I have seen 9 times out of ten MS lights flash resulting in the transmission to jam in 3rd gear through out the entire rpm and road speed range ..so this would of been noticed if the transmission isn't selecting gears unless you have a transmission solenoid or valve body failure

the TD5 uses a different type of injection system to the old perkins that uses a governor on the mechanical fuel pump also does not need to meet newer emission specs at that time ....but saying that newer perkins engines are now using electronic governors specially in gensets or plant equipment where they are unattended

run some simple tests first you might find its as simple as unplugging a sensor then test drive
 
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