+1 - was about to post a link to the same!!
RS2000CUSTOM
Active Member
Do try not to drive it at all....park away from garage, have her park elsewhere or push it (as I have had to previously)....the more damage done...the more the cost to repair...
The reason it works better when cold is due to oil viscosity I believe....as it warms and thins and starts getting pumped round the system, it looses pressure in the valve block, this reduces pressure availble to the clutch pitons and as such more slip-more wear-more damage....
stjohnsmythe
Active Member
Does anyone know if the gearbox in the V8 suffers the same issues?
ZF box suffers from 'Bearing before O Ring' failure....
I wrote about this a few threads previously....
inbetween A and B clutch packs is a Roller Bearing and an O ring....the Bearing fails causing movement between the two packs, this in turn wears out the O ring
It also suffers from Torque convertor issues too, but more evident than the GM box....
I wrote about this a few threads previously....
inbetween A and B clutch packs is a Roller Bearing and an O ring....the Bearing fails causing movement between the two packs, this in turn wears out the O ring
It also suffers from Torque convertor issues too, but more evident than the GM box....
wil2813
Well-Known Member
i wouldnt take that chance,maybe flush the pipes but definatly change cooler on rad . being a recent recon box all should be clean and some contamination from old g/b is poss trapped in cooler 9-10 this has caused the problem, if recon box was fitted and this was not changed they block up and restrict flow causing low pressure and fluid overheating.i personally wouldnt touch the gearbox at all just change the cooler he might have a pleasent suprise and a happy new year
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stjohnsmythe
Active Member
ZF box suffers from 'Bearing before O Ring' failure....
I wrote about this a few threads previously....
inbetween A and B clutch packs is a Roller Bearing and an O ring....the Bearing fails causing movement between the two packs, this in turn wears out the O ring
It also suffers from Torque convertor issues too, but more evident than the GM box....
Thanks for the info. I'll be in the market for a V8 L322 next. It's funny how the gearbox in the old P38 doesn't seem to give any bother whereas L322s seem to fail. Not exactly progress!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Just like the P38 diesel
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
Just like the P38 diesel
are LR fecking stupid ?
didn't they learn the first time round
Datatek
Well-Known Member
are LR fecking stupid ?
didn't they learn the first time round
It's what destroyed the British car industry (that and the unions) fecking bean counters trying to shave pennies off the cost with no thought for quality
Hopefully TATA are not making the same mistakes on the new models, even the later L322's had higher spec boxes I believe
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
It's what destroyed the British car industry (that and the unions) fecking bean counters trying to shave pennies off the cost with no thought for quality
Hopefully TATA are not making the same mistakes on the new models, even the later L322's had higher spec boxes I believe
thought that was the case !
nothings built to last anymore
oh well, a 2009/2010 TDV8 is next on my list... but i'll wait to see how reliable they turn out to be first
Yep from top of head box rated at something like 420Nm and the output is close to 440Nm or something like that....It's what destroyed the British car industry (that and the unions) fecking bean counters trying to shave pennies off the cost with no thought for quality
Hopefully TATA are not making the same mistakes on the new models, even the later L322's had higher spec boxes I believe
The 6HP26 is much stronger than the 5HP24
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
Ticking time bomb - aslong as you don't hoon around and burn off the lights, use high revs etc....you'll fair much betterhmmm and mine must be running at a lot more with the box of gizmos under the bonnet
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
Ticking time bomb - aslong as you don't hoon around and burn off the lights, use high revs etc....you'll fair much better
Ooops
well, been changing oil and filter every 6 months. so fingers crossed
i believe clean oil will help the life of the box as i think the main reason for total failure is when the gearbox dumps a load of metal swarf around the system ! ?
Clean oil will defo help....the main cause on the GM box is the LUC friction material entering the fluid...this has an abrasive property and wears the solenoid valves, this wear means that the valves don't seal effectively and as such the hydraulic pressure holding the clutchs is reduced causing them to slip, which in turn contaminates the oild further and a vicious cycle ensues....this then deposits larger bits of ****e into the box and trashes it....Ooops
well, been changing oil and filter every 6 months. so fingers crossed
i believe clean oil will help the life of the box as i think the main reason for total failure is when the gearbox dumps a load of metal swarf around the system ! ?
Clean oil and filters will be able to remove this abrasive material, but it will only delay the friction material wear rate, not stop it...but with clean oil and careful driving ..... you should get 70-80k out of a new box (much like the life cycle of the original)
UPDATE:
1st thing i notice was this:
it appears that the cover has been removed or falling off no good but thats the least of my problems.
I drained the oil from the gearbox and with the oil only being in there since October it came out a redy brown colour:
I then removed the sump to check for residue on bottom of the sump i found this lying in the bottom of it:
Even i know that shouldnt be there but cant seem to find where it has come from and threads appear to be fine?
I have also noticed that there are some metallic bits in the oil and some black flaky bits in there too?
Dead Gearbox? I dont think im going to get very far with the company who done the gearbox in October but ill try them in the morning and see what they say.
1st thing i notice was this:
it appears that the cover has been removed or falling off no good but thats the least of my problems.
I drained the oil from the gearbox and with the oil only being in there since October it came out a redy brown colour:
I then removed the sump to check for residue on bottom of the sump i found this lying in the bottom of it:
Even i know that shouldnt be there but cant seem to find where it has come from and threads appear to be fine?
I have also noticed that there are some metallic bits in the oil and some black flaky bits in there too?
Dead Gearbox? I dont think im going to get very far with the company who done the gearbox in October but ill try them in the morning and see what they say.
