bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 19, 2016

• #41

So my conclusion is that of course if you got to the get a brand new rover and the richy rich who bought it will not address anything to do with the gearbox. At least in the L322 you should change oil in your box as often as you service the rest of the car and every 60k miles stick a new TQ in it. Simply like changing a clutch on the car. Honestly it would come to the same price (commercially) as changing the dual mass clutch system in a car like Ford!

For your entertainment:

 

ifloochies

Well-Known Member

• Jun 19, 2016

• #42

bitnix said:

So my conclusion is that of course if you got to the get a brand new rover and the richy rich who bought it will not address anything to do with the gearbox. At least in the L322 you should change oil in your box as often as you service the rest of the car and every 60k miles stick a new TQ in it. Simply like changing a clutch on the car. Honestly it would come to the same price (commercially) as changing the dual mass clutch system in a car like Ford!

For your entertainment:

Click to expand...

D on the transmission for Day mode, N for Night mode, and R for Race mode....bahahahahahaha!
I laughed so hard out loud, I'm sure my neighbours heard me and must be thinking I'm nuts.

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 19, 2016

• #43

Glad to be providing Sunday entertainment ifloochies!

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jun 19, 2016

• #44

bitnix said:

Welcome Disco1BFG!

Thank you for your time and kind words!
I will give them a call tomorrow what is their offering for my box although Phil did mention that the cooler in its original form as long as its new it should be fine.

Hopefully at the end of this thread the car will start and once put in D it will not drive backwards!

Click to expand...

No probs, HTH

When I was doing my power upgrade, I knew that the standard box can suffer with the factory power, so adding 60% was going to push things... a bit .... So I spoke to ZF technical, who were really friendly, and, paraphrasing said - "you won't overcool the box, so crack on.." Largely out of interest, I fitted a temp gauge too, and now the oil only gets above 60C under heavy towing - even at motorway speeds, it rarely gets above 55C, so I think in my case, the larger cooler was well worth it...

I hope your directions remain unchanged too ! .... though it would be funny

 

T

tomcat59alan

Well-Known Member

• Jun 19, 2016

• #45

bitnix said:

So my conclusion is that of course if you got to the get a brand new rover and the richy rich who bought it will not address anything to do with the gearbox. At least in the L322 you should change oil in your box as often as you service the rest of the car and every 60k miles stick a new TQ in it. Simply like changing a clutch on the car. Honestly it would come to the same price (commercially) as changing the dual mass clutch system in a car like Ford!

For your entertainment:

Click to expand...

Very good, remind's me of the Yank who's car stopped, he swore he had petrol in it because it needle on the gauge pointed to "Enough"

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 19, 2016

• #46

Quick update time:
I only changed 20 clutch plates in the box as the rest were okay so tomorrow this is going back and budget is going to be growing.

So at this stage really we are waiting for the gasket set and oil as well as the oil cooler.

So from the news really the only thing I decided to replace the TQ Hub Bushing and TQ Metal Clad Seal

I'm currently debating if I should have the pump shaved down due to the marks on the casing.

Tomorrow I will get a price from AC to get this done.
Some other pic updates:

Ultimate storage device.
Then the solenoid valves.

Then I moved into checking the pump pressure regulator valve as sometime they have some play in them and require replacement but luckily my one is okay.

After that I finally got all the block plates apart.

I also managed to get my hands on ATSG Manuals which have a lot more info rather than me just looking at part catalogues and working out what is what.

6 days until the big day!

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 20, 2016

• #47

So today I got the TQ back and a some parts.

Not quite sure of the quality of that rebuilt but I assume the functionality is 100% there. It was sent to Scotland to get sorted! There is a little weight plate and I think the little holes are to balance it too.
The entire lockup clutch inside was gone so that got changed along the rest of things inside (impeller hub, thrust bearing, stator cap and so on):

http://www.sonnax.com/units/42-258mm-LU-4L60-E-5L40-E-#TCprint

I also got the new TQ bush.

So things in the post are the Hella oil cooler, gasket set and 20L of oil.

I'm putting the box back together and on Saturday is going back.

Phil - what is the best way to put oil after the box is empty after rebuild? Should I fill the TQ and perhaps have the gearbox upside down and pour some into there and turn the TQ so the oil gets into places and between gears for the initial startup? How about the valve block? I don't think its bone dry but still too dry for that kind of start up.

Any general tips for when the gearbox is in the car before I turn the key ?

 

Last edited: Jun 20, 2016

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jun 21, 2016

• #48

Can you turn the engine over with the starter, but stop it starting - that's easy on a 300Tdi (!!), but with all your electronical wizardry = = ?
(thats what I do anyway)

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 21, 2016

• #49

Haha well I could unplug something to make the car crank but not start but when gearbox is in Park I don't think much will happen!

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jun 21, 2016

• #50

bitnix said:

Haha well I could unplug something to make the car crank but not start but when gearbox is in Park I don't think much will happen!

Click to expand...

Once the converter is turning, and thus the oil pump - it should bleed itself, shouldn't it ??

 

B

Bemble

Well-Known Member

• Jun 21, 2016

• #51

The vane pump is set to its maximum flow position when the engine is cranked and typically automotive transmission pumps have a displacement of around 20-25cc/rev. so the pump will shift the whole sump volume in around 20 seconds at 1000rpm. I really wouldn’t worry about pre-filling/priming anything.

Phil

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 21, 2016

• #52

Thanks guys. I just don't want to mess anything up at this stage with the investment that I've made so far.

I got the cooler today:

Straight from Hella

I got the gasket set for £89 as opposed to like almost £170 as an overhaul kit from AC.

They also kindly sent a booklet which was quite well detailed for just a gasket set!

Gasket set for the block was also included. The only annoying thing they folded the package in half and that bent the metal gaskets for sump and transfer box. It shouldn't cause too many issues but still.

Only oil left to be delivered.

Friday car is getting towed back to the garage and on the weekend box should be fitted.

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jun 21, 2016

• #53

Cue Minions..... "Oooh.... Aarrhhh ..... Shiny"

Best of luck with it all going back together....

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 22, 2016

• #54

So today the gearbox juice arrived.

And I put the new balls in the block.

3 days to go!

 

vmaxer

Active Member

• Jun 22, 2016

• #55

send me your address i live in stoke if my gearbox goes i,ll nip it round

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 22, 2016

• #56

Haha! Is your gearbox going yet? I haven't made mine move yet so perhaps wait few days.

 

vmaxer

Active Member

• Jun 23, 2016

• #57

mines goin for box service and flush today fingers crossed they dont find anything..

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 23, 2016

• #58

vmaxer said:

mines goin for box service and flush today fingers crossed they dont find anything..

Click to expand...

I wouldn't do a flush just a normal oil change. Depending on the mileage and year of the car the gunk they want to flush out might be holding the box together! Better do couple of oil changes.

 

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Full Member

• Jun 23, 2016

• #59

bitnix said:

I wouldn't do a flush just a normal oil change. Depending on the mileage and year of the car the gunk they want to flush out might be holding the box together! Better do couple of oil changes.

Click to expand...

+1.....

 

bitnix

Active Member

• Jun 23, 2016

• #60

So the pump ring damage was not as severe as it looked. Sanding paper took most of the scratches out apart from one deeper one. And on another note the gearbox is put back into one piece now ready to be fitted on Saturday. I didn't bother you with a post about changing washers because in all fairness I wanted new block washers and some other ones so not a major overhaul here but I still changed most of them for new ones. The kit was much cheaper than anywhere else on eBay so I thought it would be for the best. Once it was done I had some silver and rattle cans so I thought I would give it that fresh look (just in case the potential buyer wants to be assured the whole box was out )

I kept the BMW sticker for life just to make sure we keep warning the brave never to loosen the sump plug!

And made a quick transport bracket so the TQ won't fall out.

After that I have the gearbox no.2 from a BMW to fix and sell to get the money back for that one!

I will total up the exact amount of monies spent with all the hidden costs and VATs on this repair in the next post when I get my head around it.