hi, my l322 td6 Range Rover acts as if the servo isn't holding pressure. it takes ages to build vacuum and I only get one assisted press of the brakes before they become practiacally useless. if I turn the car off it only takes a few seconds to lose vacuum. this makes me think its either a leak in the servo itself. or a broken one way valve? I assume that if I had a split vacuum line then it would still hold vacuum in the servo for a while? and would surely affect other stuff EGR etc. am I right in thinking this? does that rule out a vacuum pump issue? thanks
Looks like the hose only does the servo
Seems I was wrong.
Most likely your egr is electronic or air over electric and may get egr faults.
You've asked this before my mate?
Thought I'd seen something recentlyMost likely your egr is electronic or air over electric and may get egr faults.
You've asked this before my mate?
yes, I put a post on recently. I took the vacuum line off the servo and checked it and it seemed to have really good pressure. so I assume there isn't a leak in the line. is it safe to assume thet the servo has gone and should just change it. because surely a vacuum check valve failure would only have consequences when the engine is turned off? it doesnt seem like an electronic issue because when driving the breaks work really well.....untill the pressure goes out of the servo.
Easier if you stick to one thread but from the below description of the servo it could be a leaking diaphragm.
Brake Servo
The brake servo assembly provides power assistance to reduce the pedal load when braking. The assembly is
attached to the front of the pedal box and comprises a circular housing containing a diaphragm, push rods, valve and
filter. A push rod at the rear of the housing is connected to the brake pedal.
The vacuum line is connected to a port in the front face of the housing. With the brake pedal released and the engine
running, vacuum pressure is present on both sides of the diaphragm. When the brake pedal is pressed, the rear push
rod moves forward and opens the valve to allow atmospheric pressure through the filter into the pedal side of the
diaphragm. The pressure differential acting on the diaphragm increases the pressure being applied by the brake
pedal, which is transmitted to the master cylinder via the forward push rod. If the servo fails, the hydraulic system will
still function but will require greater pedal effort due to the lack of vacuum assistance.
Brake Servo
The brake servo assembly provides power assistance to reduce the pedal load when braking. The assembly is
attached to the front of the pedal box and comprises a circular housing containing a diaphragm, push rods, valve and
filter. A push rod at the rear of the housing is connected to the brake pedal.
The vacuum line is connected to a port in the front face of the housing. With the brake pedal released and the engine
running, vacuum pressure is present on both sides of the diaphragm. When the brake pedal is pressed, the rear push
rod moves forward and opens the valve to allow atmospheric pressure through the filter into the pedal side of the
diaphragm. The pressure differential acting on the diaphragm increases the pressure being applied by the brake
pedal, which is transmitted to the master cylinder via the forward push rod. If the servo fails, the hydraulic system will
still function but will require greater pedal effort due to the lack of vacuum assistance.
yeah. that's my though too, I just find it weird that if I'm driving for a while it seems to have vacuum pressure but it just doesnt regain it quickly. I own one of those little camera things and wonder wether I could put it through the inlet and check for any leaks? I assume that changing the servo like most things on the l322 would be incredibly complicated. suitable driveway job?
I might try replacing the check valve first because its really cheap and easy
I might try replacing the check valve first because its really cheap and easy
If the leak is less than the vacuum pump provides then I'd say the above could happen.
I've never changed one yet so no idea how difficult it is.
You were asked if you had access to a vacuum pump to connect to the servo?
I've never changed one yet so no idea how difficult it is.
You were asked if you had access to a vacuum pump to connect to the servo?
yeah, I bought one. should be arriving tomorrow. I will first check the input and make sure that the vacuum pump is working well enough, after that I'll test the check valve. if that's all good then it must be the servo?
Looks like it could be a PITA
yeah. that’s my plan i think
i’ve put a vacuum gauge on the inlet and it seems that the vaccum pump is sucking well. i also connected a vaccum pump on the other side of the check valve and it seems to be working. i also noticed that when the car is turned off witch vaccum in the system. you can hear a whooshing sound coming from the servo.
i’m pretty sure that means the servo is broken so i’m going to try and replace it. can’t find and range rover specific videos though. and wonder if anyone here has done one before?
Ive just finished replacing the brake servo tonight. and it all seems to be working well. managed to bag a 2nd hand one on ebay for £30.
definitely one of the bigger jobs I've attempted. I didn't need to bleed the brakes in the end as I bled the master cylinder separately on the bench before fitting
.thank you
Whenever you split a braking system you should bleed the complete system. We don't cut corners with brakesIve just finished replacing the brake servo tonight. and it all seems to be working well. managed to bag a 2nd hand one on ebay for £30.
definitely one of the bigger jobs I've attempted. I didn't need to bleed the brakes in the end as I bled the master cylinder separately on the bench before fitting
thank you
