Which one did you find best? I tend to go to Morris as there’s a local distributor to me and there great fluids, been around since time began, but quite a rare company to most people but anyone in industry or commercial vehicles knows morris.
 
Good stuff, if you need technical advice just send them an email, normally you get a very in depth reply, really good firm to deal with.
If you do your gearbox service definitely take sump off and have a look for filings etc and change filter, possibly allow two changes as a lot of fluid stays in the torque converter so first time you may only have 40-50% new fluid, a second change removes much more old so even though some will be there you’ll have more new than old.
 
So I've done a gearbox service. Gears changing smoothly. What I have noticed about the Trans fail safe message is that it only does it going in or out of park. Even with the engine off, if I wobble it in park it will pop up with the message.
 
Post recycle…

A pal has a 322 and it is constantly flattening the battery. Currently when he needs it he boost starts it. An auto leccy looked at it and we conducted a series of tests to find out what was drawing current.

With the car locked etc, the current drain was over 10 amps for about 10 mins, then dropped to 7 and eventually down to what would be expected every time. The screen inside appeared to be live during this period. I can’t recall if it was any better leaving the car unlocked.

The only known problems was a jammed CD auto changer, the owner has wrestled this out. What else does the sat nav, cd, display screen share and can the fuse be pulled to discount the issue?
 
Post recycle…

A pal has a 322 and it is constantly flattening the battery. Currently when he needs it he boost starts it. An auto leccy looked at it and we conducted a series of tests to find out what was drawing current.

With the car locked etc, the current drain was over 10 amps for about 10 mins, then dropped to 7 and eventually down to what would be expected every time. The screen inside appeared to be live during this period. I can’t recall if it was any better leaving the car unlocked.

The only known problems was a jammed CD auto changer, the owner has wrestled this out. What else does the sat nav, cd, display screen share and can the fuse be pulled to discount the issue?
Hi just thought I’d share my past post on this subject, hope it’s useful and helps resolve your issue.

Get the battery up to full charge or replace if required. If you can check the earth straps around the engine to chassis as mine were very corroded. Check when you switch off and lock that the management systems fully shut down as they restart every time you unlock the car and run on for 20 minutes on locking. If you don’t drive the car long enough after, you don’t replace the drain. If any codes don’t clear with a fully charged battery as mine, I had to disconnect the battery every night and re-connect next day for a week (following the correct disconnecting procedure) before everything returned to normal. A flat battery will cause mayhem.

I also noticed that if you unlock the car but don’t drive away the screen stays live for the 20 minutes or so. However, by turning ignition on then off the screen and who knows what else goes off and thus reduces drain when you are working on, washing or just leaving it unlocked. You can then lock the car knowing it’s already half asleep.

Good luck chasing it down, let us know if you find more detail.
Tricky :cool:
 

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