You say "Long story short... I managed to burn my CCU" - how do you think you have burnt your CCU?

Pretty sure the syncing of the fob will 'only' allow you to activate the alarm. The car's alarm presumably isn't active - the doors open and no alarm is going off. So windows should work, regardless of whether the fob is synced (I think I'm correct in saying this).

Going by that, if the alarm isn't active, then it should still allow you to open and close windows etc. So the CCU is not working, but have you checked fuses and loom connectors (remove, inspect and reseat them)?
 
GrumpyGel said:
I think I'm correct in saying this
Click to expand...
That's correct. Fob syncing only effects the remote locking and intruder alarm disarm.
However unlocking with the key should also disable the alarm.
The engine will only start if the alarm/immobiliser module recognises the code from the key transponder. If the key transponder code isn't recognised, then a warning is sounded when the key is turned to the start position, but the ignition lights will still come on, but the starter won't crank the engine.
 
GrumpyGel said:
You say "Long story short... I managed to burn my CCU" - how do you think you have burnt your CCU?

Pretty sure the syncing of the fob will 'only' allow you to activate the alarm. The car's alarm presumably isn't active - the doors open and no alarm is going off. So windows should work, regardless of whether the fob is synced (I think I'm correct in saying this).

Going by that, if the alarm isn't active, then it should still allow you to open and close windows etc. So the CCU is not working, but have you checked fuses and loom connectors (remove, inspect and reseat them)?
Click to expand...
No alarm is active, windows do not work. All the easily visible wiring has been checked including connections (those that doesn't require taking the whole dashboard out..). Tomorrow I am going to try tap myself into the window harness and give it power to see if I can go around the CCU, if I'm thinking right about this approach
 
Nodge68 said:
That's correct. Fob syncing only effects the remote locking and intruder alarm disarm.
However unlocking with the key should also disable the alarm.
The engine will only start if the alarm/immobiliser module recognises the code from the key transponder. If the key transponder code isn't recognised, then a warning is sounded when the key is turned to the start position, but the ignition lights will still come on, but the starter won't crank the engine.
Click to expand...
But what if I can't turn the alarm on at all? With the key or with the remote in any way?
 
Nodge68 said:
The alarm gets told to disarm by the CCU.
Click to expand...
So no way in turning on it without I guess replacing the CCU or is it possible to fake a signal ?
Going to add that today I went to a second shop and they just gave the car back after 3 hours with nothing done on the system, they gave up because it was ''too many cables'' apparantly.
 
Bartosz417 said:
So no way in turning on it without I guess replacing the CCU or is it possible to fake a signal ?
Click to expand...

Not really. The FL1 is basic by modern standards, but the CCU is still heavily integrated into the vehicle's electronics systems.

What's wrong with your CCU?
 
Nodge68 said:
Have you removed the CCU to clean all the connectors?
They seldom go wrong, except when the windscreen leaks and causes corrosion.
Click to expand...
Yes, tried to clean the connectors incase something went into them or they came loose but still sadly nothing
 
Bartosz417 said:
No alarm is active, windows do not work. All the easily visible wiring has been checked including connections (those that doesn't require taking the whole dashboard out..). Tomorrow I am going to try tap myself into the window harness and give it power to see if I can go around the CCU, if I'm thinking right about this approach
Click to expand...
This is great and you may be able to get with windows working quite easily.

However, to open the back door, you are going to need to have programming skills with something like an Arduino. You'll have to listen for the door open switch, then lower the back window a bit then energise the latch. You'll also have to listen for the door being closed and raise the back window. This sounds like a lot of complex work to me. :eek:
Bartosz417 said:
So no way in turning on it without I guess replacing the CCU or is it possible to fake a signal ?
Going to add that today I went to a second shop and they just gave the car back after 3 hours with nothing done on the system, they gave up because it was ''too many cables'' apparantly.
Click to expand...
This is another example of a time when you do not give the car to a mechanic.

For help it will need to go to an auto electrician.
 
GrumpyGel said:
This is great and you may be able to get with windows working quite easily.

However, to open the back door, you are going to need to have programming skills with something like an Arduino. You'll have to listen for the door open switch, then lower the back window a bit then energise the latch. You'll also have to listen for the door being closed and raise the back window. This sounds like a lot of complex work to me. :eek:

This is another example of a time when you do not give the car to a mechanic.

For help it will need to go to an auto electrician.
Click to expand...
Actually, the links to the back door window was broken and I did recently replace them with a fix kit, but no idea how I forgot to mention this.
After succesfully operating the window up and down, open and closing the door, after a few times the window just went all the way down by itself after closing the door. After that, the button for the window has not been working for a longer time. I completely forgot about this incident, is there any way this could frick up everything else connected to the system? I think if I remember right when this happened a day later to open the back door I had to have lights on for the handle to work. Yes, the lights on the car had to be on...
Everything has been checked, every cable I can see, plug... now been playing with the multimeter but seems everything dead.
 
Bartosz417 said:
Actually, the links to the back door window was broken and I did recently replace them with a fix kit, but no idea how I forgot to mention this.
After succesfully operating the window up and down, open and closing the door, after a few times the window just went all the way down by itself after closing the door. After that, the button for the window has not been working for a longer time. I completely forgot about this incident, is there any way this could frick up everything else connected to the system? I think if I remember right when this happened a day later to open the back door I had to have lights on for the handle to work. Yes, the lights on the car had to be on...
Everything has been checked, every cable I can see, plug... now been playing with the multimeter but seems everything dead.
Click to expand...
I'm no expert on this. It sounds to me like you had some earthing problems with the electrics to the back of the car. I think they are behind the plastic paneling in the boot area, by the 'd' pillar or what ever the rear corner is called.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I'm no expert on this. It sounds to me like you had some earthing problems with the electrics to the back of the car. I think they are behind the plastic paneling in the boot area, by the 'd' pillar or what ever the rear corner is called.
Click to expand...
Will open up the paneling then and try to follow a few wiring diagrams
 
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