Only just started to work on it again and heavy rain has arrived. I've attached an image of the original CCU showing part numbers etc, it shows as being YWC000031 would that be an issue if the replacement I fitted is YWC000030 ? I'll take the replacement out later and check the numbers on that and update here to suit.
 

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Might be worth trying to provide an earth to the CCU metalwork before you pass it on. I think if you had a 3 door CCU it would only affect the rear window. As said, there was no coding or changes required when I swapped a CCU. Just the fobs to recode to the CCU. If the CCU controls immob functions then they are passive and don't affect coding.
Fitted all the bolts and made no difference when turning the key, symptoms presenting same as my original post. I'm not sure whether I have read in this forum or someone told me recently but it now seems that my original keys have a little transmitter inside them that communicates with the drivers door lock sensor and that communicates with the CCU ? the keys need to be synchronised/programmed to the replacement CCU to enable the CCU to recognise my keys and then maybe the CCU may work as required and all the symptoms disappear hopefully. I've been searching for quite a few hours but can't seem to find any 'workarounds' so am I at a stage where I have to pass over to my auto engineer. FYI if anyone is interested a TD4 CCU 2001 bulletin I just found online - http://www.myfreelander.co.uk/Body/bodyprobs27.htm
Interestingly my CCU that I took out was a YWC000031 and the ebay replacement was YWC00030. Sorry about the ads down the sides they seem to come with it.
 
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Have you compared part numbers of the old and replacement CCU?
I can't remember exactly, but I'm sure the CCU has something to do with the immobiliser and alarm system, presumably it'll pass the key recognition code to the alarm module, and send the vehicle unlocked command to the alarm too. Normally when the CCU is swapped, it's best to swap the alarm module and ECM at the same time. There are sellers on ebay that sell kits of everything needed, often including a fob or two in the kit.
Using the door key all the time isn't ideal, as the lock is designed for emergency use, so they wear and fail eventually.
Thanks again, I've written a fuller update below but just wanted to say here that your presumption seems correct as after fitting the replacement CCU (00030) the engine ignition wouldn't work either so I refitted the old CCU (00031) which in turn enabled me to get back to a driveable vehicle albeit with the known loss of CCU controlled cabin features. Looking at kits planned for later today. On the upside I can now remove and replace my CCU in about 30 mins ;)Cheers again.
 
The thing that doesn't add up is the 'no ignition'. There is nothing in the immobiliser that prevents the ignition coming on. Also, I have changed CCU s with no problem.

So, I think the replacement CCU is faulty or the type is wrong. If you do get a KIT for a 5 door then change the CCU first. You might save some work !! Let us know how you get on.
 
Also, the chip in the key communicates with the Immobiliser module and prevents cranking when not correct. It does not prevent ignition and throw dash lights up.
 
The thing that doesn't add up is the 'no ignition'. There is nothing in the immobiliser that prevents the ignition coming on. Also, I have changed CCU s with no problem.

So, I think the replacement CCU is faulty or the type is wrong. If you do get a KIT for a 5 door then change the CCU first. You might save some work !! Let us know how you get on.
Thanks again and will do.

Could it be that the replacement CCU wasn't getting a synch'd key signal to send on to the ECU and alarm module? Do you think that I'll need to -

a) Get my current keys synch'd with whatever properly working CCU gets fitted in the end?
or
b) Do I just get a complete kit with keys and remotes which I guess would be the ideal solution ?

Going by the Bulletin all I might have expected from the replacement CCU was the rear window being 'non-compliant' however we are where we are and I appreciated your guidance and advice. Just in case anyone else reading this is interested I've pasted a section of that Bulletin below for ease of awareness -

Bulletin Number - 0069

Issue - 1

Date - 23.05.2001

Model - Freelander

Affected Range
- All 2001 Model Year derivatives in VIN ranges: 1A 300000 to 1A 315095, 1A 5767654 to 1A 599999

Re-Issue Information

Problem -


INVOLUNTARY OPERATION OF TAILDOOR GLASS - CENTRAL CONTROL UNIT (CCU).

The taildoor glass moves to the fully lowered position without driver intervention, while the vehicle is parked with the ignition turned OFF.

Cause

This is a rare condition which can occur due to a software error within the CCU resulting in a susceptibility to external interference
................................................................................................................................

N.B. The full bulletin provided qualifying conditions (tests) for the potentially faulty YWC000030 Central Control to be replaced with YWC000031.
 
So finally we have it sorted. Adam at AT Autoworks in Hatcheston, Suffolk collected my TD4 from my place two days ago on Monday morning and left me a car on the drive if needed. Adam phoned about mid afternoon that day and told me he'd found a dry joint on one of the supplies to the cabin fuse board, this in turn was causing a lack of power to quite a few of the circuits controlled by a number of the fuses within the fuse board. On returning my vehicle later that afternoon on his way home from work Adam said that the clock (which had also stopped working) is not controlled by the CCU in my particular TD4 model Y Reg 2001, that lead him to check the incoming supplies to the fuse board and to find the dry joint ( a small crack ) which he cleaned and resoldered and it resolved the issue. Everything now works as it used to. My thanks go out to everyone who responded to my initial post and who have taught me a lot more than I knew at the start of this thread. Much appreciated. 👍
 

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