C

Chris the Greek

New Member
Hello everyone

I am having a problem with my M reg 300 tdi central locking /Alarm
I have a single button key fob that wont unlock the car. Although the light on the fob was working i decided to change the battery in case it was weak but no luck. I can unlock the car with the key but then the alarm comes on which stays on for a while and then it stops but the car wont start.
I looked on previous posts and found that the spider might be causing the problem then i read that the single button fobs dont have a spider. I am a bit confused so any help will be more than welcomed.
 
try to resynk the fob, if no joy and the sequence fails for some reason then the alarm ECU might be fubar'd, find a known good ECU on ebay or scrapyard fit it then try to synk again, check the alarm ECU, is it AMR2109 p/n on it? :

Single Button Remote Programming
Discovery I and Range Rover Classic 1994 - '95
Applies To:
Discovery I | '94 - '95
Range Rover Classic | '95

Note: This process must be carried out in 8 seconds to access learn mode. Best done with two people. You should have both remotes available or the second one will not work.

  1. Open hood and have assistant hold hood alarm switch down.
  2. With all doors closed and lock knobs up turn the ignition key on then off.
  3. Cycle drivers door button down then up.
  4. Assistant should then release the hood switch.
  5. Turn ignition on then off.
  6. If done correctly, horn will beep once and dash LED will light up. This indicates the learn mode has been accessed. If this doesn't happen repeat 1 thru 6.
  7. From inside car push and hold first remote. The dash LED should flash 8 cycles a second for one second, indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat steps 1 thru 6 again.
  8. Push and hold the second remote if the code is received the dash LED will flash 8 cycles indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat 1 thru 7 again.
Note: Turning the ignition on at any time will cancel the learning process.
The system can only store two remote codes and must be done one at a time.
If you only have one remote, program it twice
 
Last edited:
Try reprogramming your fob, but as u have an "active" security system with the single button fob you don't need the fob, they were an option, so get the system functioning correctly locking/unlocking via the key in the drivers door lock, unlocking should unlock all doors, remobilise the engine and unset the alarm but not set off the alarm.
Also you don't have a spider, they were installed in some of the later "passive" security system equipped D1s.
 
Excuse my ignorance but where is the ecu located ?
Also I need to tell you that some of the locks wont work due to a bad solenoid i believe.
 
Not knowing the spec of your vehicle in your part of the world but here in the UK its on the left behind the glove box.
Get the central locking sorted out first, remove the drivers door card and check the operation of the micro switches at the rear of the lock and also the actuator is operating fully as its that which controls or signals the slave actuators also to operate.
 
Well i brought my disco from the UK and is a right hand drive so we have it on the same side. is this ECU same with the window ecu ?
I will try and have a look.....
 
Chris the Greek said:
Well i brought my disco from the UK and is a right hand drive so we have it on the same side. is this ECU same with the window ecu ?
I will try and have a look.....
Click to expand...

Okay then just remove the passenger kick panel and on the left of the glove box you will see it, it will have a TV style coax plug plugged into it, that's the antenna. I understand that the glove box can be dropped down to give better access.
 
Hey guys
Thank you for your replies. I read somewhere that if there is a spider fault the engine might cut off while you drive. This actually happened twice a few days before the whole problem occurs. Discocool mentioned that the spider was introduced in later models. Is there a way other than opening the console to find out if there is a spider in my car or not? I have a disco 1 MK2 by the way
 
Chris the Greek said:
Hey guys
Thank you for your replies. I read somewhere that if there is a spider fault the engine might cut off while you drive. This actually happened twice a few days before the whole problem occurs. Discocool mentioned that the spider was introduced in later models. Is there a way other than opening the console to find out if there is a spider in my car or not? I have a disco 1 MK2 by the way
Click to expand...

Did you do as advised ? and look under the left hand side kick panel ...
 
Chris the Greek said:
Hey guys
Thank you for your replies. I read somewhere that if there is a spider fault the engine might cut off while you drive. This actually happened twice a few days before the whole problem occurs. Discocool mentioned that the spider was introduced in later models. Is there a way other than opening the console to find out if there is a spider in my car or not? I have a disco 1 MK2 by the way
Click to expand...

Spiders were introduced as part of the 'two button' fob security system on the 1996MY disco which was launched around June 95, if you have an auto equipped with EDC you won't have a spider and its possible that the very last of the D1s 1998MY didn't have a spider either... as rumours have it.

And yes a failing spider can cut out the engine mine did twice with a just misfire picking up shortly afterwards, also bad starting (cranking but not firing) and finally a couple of months later engine cutting out at 50mph and not starting again until I carried out a repair back home.
Fortunately the replacement of the faulty circuit is very easy on a V8 there's no need to go near the spider, no need to go there with a diesel either.
All the spider does is supply 12v to the circuits that are used in the immobilising of the engine.
 
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