cornish rattler

Well-Known Member
Hi guys

I own a 1988 90 county bought in Feb 2014 it was a 2.5TD but converted to a Defender 200TDI at some point before i bought it, since owning it i have replace all the suspension, just poly bushed it, replaced the rear drum brake axle for a disco 300TDI rear axle.

the G/box is still an LT77 and plan to replace the chassis with a new galv marsland chassis, will my 90 loose its I.D. with all this being done :confused:
 
My understanding replacing the chassis with like for like shouldn't effect it.

Changing a series parabolic spring chassis to a coil chassis isn't like for like, so would count against it.

I'm sure someone else will be along who knows for sure
 
Hi guys

I own a 1988 90 county bought in Feb 2014 it was a 2.5TD but converted to a Defender 200TDI at some point before i bought it, since owning it i have replace all the suspension, just poly bushed it, replaced the rear drum brake axle for a disco 300TDI rear axle.

the G/box is still an LT77 and plan to replace the chassis with a new galv marsland chassis, will my 90 loose its I.D. with all this being done :confused:

Straight re-chassis shouldn't be a problem, just stamp the original number on the new chassis and say nothing.
 
Like for like replacement (ish) is no problem. The general advice is to destroy the old chassis so another vehicle with the same ID can't end up on the road, keep the receipt for the new chassis and if possible cut out and keep the number from the old chassis.

It doesn't matter what else is done, engines/gearboxes etc as they don't effect the vehicle ID.
 
if possible cut out and keep the number from the old chassis.

I know some people who have kept the old number, cut out a rectangle on the new chassis, and welded the old one in!

Bit OTT for me, but I think their logic is that it is still the original chassis, the galv chassis is repairs! :D
 
i'd cut the old dumb iron off and keep it somewhere. asked marslandto stamp it before they galv?
 
i'd cut the old dumb iron off and keep it somewhere. asked marslandto stamp it before they galv?
+1 I'm gonna have to SVA mine. As a 2nd hand chassis isn't classed as like for like. :Cry:
 
+1 I'm gonna have to SVA mine. As a 2nd hand chassis isn't classed as like for like. :Cry:

honest of you. i'm sure a lot of folk would have just bought a new dumb iron (cut and plate), welded it on and if anyone asked(doubtful), told them it rusted off. or welded on the old dumb iron.
 
honest of you. i'm sure a lot of folk would have just bought a new dumb iron (cut and plate), welded it on and if anyone asked(doubtful), told them it rusted off. or welded on the old dumb iron.

Easier to just take it to be checked. Never understood why peeps want to keep same reg. It makes no difference to the way ths car drives. Or the speed at which it rusts out and falls apart. .
 
what side dumb iron has the chassis no stamped on as it looks like my O/S dumb iron has been replaced at some point, probably why my front axle looks pretty new compared to the old rear axle i have taken off :)
 
Easier to just take it to be checked. Never understood why peeps want to keep same reg. It makes no difference to the way ths car drives. Or the speed at which it rusts out and falls apart. .

hassle and red tape? be interesting to see how smoothly it goes with you :)
 
what side dumb iron has the chassis no stamped on as it looks like my O/S dumb iron has been replaced at some point, probably why my front axle looks pretty new compared to the old rear axle i have taken off :)

offside, they do rust out so it could be legit
 
hassle and red tape? be interesting to see how smoothly it goes with you :)
Engine number matches. Glass is original number on chassis is visible. Got the thread on here as proof of swap. Can't see where the hassle is..
 

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