JokerUK said:

...and or course nothing is straight forward!
Got the car up onto 4 ramps for the planned activities.
Thought I'd start with the Haldex as that sounded like the most pain - well I managed three bolts, but they were soooo tight (my poor arthritic hands!) - I've soaked everything else in pen oil and will leave overnight.

In the mean-time I drained and refilled the rear diff, nice and easy - oil was horrible.

Next moved to the front, took the engine cover and air -filter off and noticed that the far right (drivers side) injector was sitting in a pool of what I thought was oil, only to realise it was diesel!
I cleaned the whole area up so that I could try to trace the leak (added a pic but its pretty blurry)- went to start the engine, it cranks but doesn't fire

Did some reading on the forum and assume that this is a fuel transfer pump issue (yes it's on about 1/4 tank). I assume that this is as simple as going in through the access panel under the rear seat. Is there anything I should test first? - I didn't see any errors in IDD re: fuel pump
Also is there a recommended product as the price seems to vary greatly ?

I may have also spied a coolant leak on the LH side of the engine......

This is starting to feel a bit projecty

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OK having searched some more it seems that leak-off connectors are likely to be to blame for the fuel leak - I can see a replacement set for about £40 on ebay so may order those

If it's a transfer pump issue, then it's not that simple as the tank needs to be dropped to access the unit. Some clever spark decided that it would be more fun to remove the tank, rather than putting the access hole in the floor in the correct place.

Is the MAF sensor plugged in? It won't start if not.

It's a bit annoying when a new vehicle turns into an unplanned new project.

urgh - thanks for the reply - I did disconnect the MAF etc but reconnected it all after the non-start, that's not cheering news :/

Just read the process for dropping the tank - sounds like a real faff!

JokerUK said:

Yeah - four daughters and a grand daughter…..

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At least you get well thought out birthday and Christmas presents

JokerUK said:

Just read the process for dropping the tank - sounds like a real faff!

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Although- if you drop the tank are you working through the same access hole - could this not be made easier by making the underseat hole larger?

JokerUK said:

Just read the process for dropping the tank - sounds like a real faff!

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It is. Some owners just keep the fuel level above ¼ to avoid having to pull the tank.

JokerUK said:

Morning all,
I’ve just (yesterday) payed a deposit and committed to buy an FL2 HSE TD4 for daughter no1 as she has no car having separated from her partner and has a young baby.
She doesn’t know it’s doing yet as I want to check it thoroughly on arrival - it’s done just over 100k miles receipts for cambelt , water pump and full service. just mot’d for 12 months with advisories on worn disks so I will replace these.

It has little prior history but the price was ok - and it will be maintained by Dad’s garage.

unlike most things I buy I’m hoping that this is not a project! As I’m currently up to my ears with my Defender and RRS

I may give it another oil and filter change and run some injector cleaner through as well, just want to make sure it is safe

I;ve run through quite a few threads but any other guidance would be really welcomed

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Ok another day….cold and frosty but sunny!
- I’ve had to temporarily park the Haldex as I realise I need to get all the wheels in the air to rotate the prop to reach the bolts so it’s semi undone :/

- I completed stage 1 of the gearbox oil change, so drained and refilled for the first time.

- was all prepared to remove the rear carpet and fabricate a decent sized access hole for the top of the tank but decided to add a little extra fuel , try to start and re-read any codes first.

- the fuel made little difference other than moving the fuel gauge to just under half. But no start. I probably should apply power directly to the pump just to make sure it spins.

- however on reading the codes (which I also did yesterday!) I’m now showing a throttle stuck closed error (P0112 I think)

- I decided to pop off the throttle body and what a horrible black gungey mess inside! But it was open, not closed. I cleaned it up but when I manually try to rotate the flap in the first part of the movement it is very ‘notchy’ and not smooth at all. I plugged it all back in to the electrics to see if it moved on ignition on - but nothing, just the buzzing noise. Now I don’t have a lot to compare with, but my XKR I think immediately closes the butterfly when you put the ignition on and the buzzing is the motor keeping the butterfly closed.

I’m inclined to order a new TB just based on the notchy movement but thought if anyone has any comments?

I’ve also had a good look at the coolant leak and its the top plastic pipe of what I understand is the thermostat housing so I’ve ordered one of these too.

so much for getting through it all quickly!

if the car was for me I’d be more relaxed but as it’s for my daughter and two year old grand daughter I don’t want to mess around.

End of day - I realise I had completely the wrong error code(s) there are:
P02E9-73 Diesel intake air flow position sensor circuit high
P02E5-71 Diesel intake airflow control stuck closed
P02E1-00 Diesel intake air flow control - Performance

- I assume that these are still the throttle body and I will get one ordered.

Managed to do the oil change on the PTU - getting a pipe into that to drain is a real pain!

Still to do:
- Steering fluid reservoir but I think I need to get the car running for easy draining and fluid change
- Engine oil and filter (I ordered the wrong oil
- Brake fluid - I'm hoping that there is a service option in IID which will pump the fluid through using the ABS controller - anyone know?
- Still the Haldex although I may persevere with this once I've taken of the thermostat housing the problem is that the car is on the gravel drive, I do have some hard standing areas which would be better for axle stands but they are full of other projects...
So if anyone can think of a safe way of getting all 4 wheels off the ground and leaving clearance to do the Haldex - I'm all ears

I've also spotted the left rear of the engine is pretty oily - there is some sort of plastic manifold ? anyway one of the end bolts looks to be missing see arrow in pic - which is probably why oil is seeping

I took out the dip stick.... its got more kinks and twists in it than than a kinky-twisty thing - so need a new dipstick

Edit: just looking on the Land rover classics part site - I *think* my missing bolt is one of the engine cover studs, can work out what its screwing in to though - feeling incompetent!

Yes those codes are related to the TB.
Do you have the diagnostic equipment to calibrate the replacement?

Hmmm, can I do it with SDD/IDD (never done it before….)?

JokerUK said:

Hmmm, can I do it with SDD/IDD (never done it before….)?

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Yes, SDD has an air path calibration routine which will calibrate everything in the air intake system, including the TB and EGR valve.

Nodge68 said:

Yes, SDD has an air path calibration routine which will calibrate everything in the air intake system, including the TB and EGR valve.

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Ok that's good thanks , TB ordered will be with me Weds. Ordered a stat housing as well, hoping to strip the old one today if the rain stops

Blooming heck! It’s arrived! Only ordered it late yesterday.
was just sitting having late Sunday brek and DPD knocked. - happy days

OK - braved the rain (bad idea) now I'm cold, wet and grumpy! But all work abandoned for the rest of today I reckon

Got the TB fitted - re-connecting the rubber pipe at the bottom was a real pain.
Ran the recalibration in SDD and the horrible buzzing noise is gone and I can hear the FB flap smoothly moving.

Car still won't start - now getting an HDC error on crank and an error in SDD about ECM to Gearbox control.
Put in the rest of my large can of diesel just in case - no joy

Battery was pretty low so some SDD diags are unavailable , so I'm vainly hoping this may be related - but I doubt it, I know my Rangerovers and the XKR will generate a book full of errors on crank if the battery is even slightly low - is that the case with FLs?

It's official I've taken a driveable car and broken it!

just a thought now I'm sitting in the warm and dry - I fitted a cabin filter yesterday and there was a shed load of wiring in that area - could I have disturbed something that is causing the HDC fault? answers on a postcard