steely dan

Active Member
Had the car 10 years . My wife ran it very low on petrol . .Filled it at a good friends garage so fuel is OK , ran it 3 miles and then it sat for three days unused . She then drove it 16 miles round trip to work where it started to run on three cyl. I discovered it ran it another 5 miles and then after changing the oil decided to remove plugs to check . No 1 plug seized in and wouldn't budge other 3 ( Iridium ) plugs came out and were perfect . Put it back together , started it and it went down to running on two cylinders . I checked the timing marks on cam and crank pulley , perfect , pulled the three good plugs out and still had compression on No1 . Checked compression on nos 2,3 and 4 all at 220psi . All four leads giving good spark , pulse getting to injectors ( checked by adapting side light bulb, a neat trick ) . Chenged nos 3&4 injectors for nos 1&2 and engine still fired on 3 &4 . Cam cover removed and cams seem OK .
It's in a local garage now and even he is baffled .
MLS gasket fitted 5 years ago , engine was running perfectly , no water loss or any other HG symptom .
Is there any scenario that would cause injection system to shut down nos 1&2 cylinders under a fault condition ?
I've left the Haynes manual in the car so can't check but is there a crank or cam sensor ? and what would symptoms be if Lambda sensor failed?
Your help would be appreciated as this is puzzling .
 
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there should be ignition feed to injectors and ecu switches injector- I would suggest that with a computer safe circuit tester the wiring to the injector is checked
 
Is it the 50th anniversary in your sig? Have you changed the disy cap? They fail and so does the rotor arm.
 
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Is it the 50th anniversary in your sig? Have you changed the disy cap? They fail and so does the rotor arm.

Yes it is .
S'funny you say that as I called the garage an hour ago to ask if he had checked that . I replaced the cap and rotor about a year ago and I seem to recall the rotor was retained with a grub screw .
 
Yes it is .
S'funny you say that as I called the garage an hour ago to ask if he had checked that . I replaced the cap and rotor about a year ago and I seem to recall the rotor was retained with a grub screw .

It is? Sometimes they are the very devil to remove too. It's well worth changing the cap an rotor arm even if only to eliminate them.
 
took mine off recently the cam seals had gone and leaked into the cap causing it to short out.
i never even noticed any rough running though, it's amazing it was even running at all from the state of the inside, tracking all over place it must have been
 
That was one of my initial thoughts but upon removing the plug leads all were clean & dry.
No 1 plug is a mystery though as I fitted the plugs last December when I was having trouble with emmissions on the annual test and I can definatley say that I NEVER overtighten plugs . Why it should have seized in situ I don't know.
Ho Hum.........
 
run the engine if you can until it is hot then squirt a bit of wd40 down and then try to get the plug out
 
Well it was a simple fault but a real bitch to find!
After checking everything ( and I mean EVERYTHING ) including all plug connections on the second more intricate examination of the main ecu plug on the main loom three connections were corroded. It took a magnifying glass to find the corrosion and after a gentle rub with my smallest swiss file , a spray with contact cleaner and some WD40, BINGO running sweet again.

Thanks for all your help lads .
 
Well it was a simple fault but a real bitch to find!
After checking everything ( and I mean EVERYTHING ) including all plug connections on the second more intricate examination of the main ecu plug on the main loom three connections were corroded. It took a magnifying glass to find the corrosion and after a gentle rub with my smallest swiss file , a spray with contact cleaner and some WD40, BINGO running sweet again.

Thanks for all your help lads .

Clean with brake cleaner and when dry buy and spray electronics lacquer
 

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