Just about everything I have done was because the previous owner didn’t. Brakes, pipes, cables, hubs, vcu bearings, rear diff mounts, tyres, but it seems ludicrous to me that I have to spend lots of time removing the front bumper to get to the headlight unit just to sort an indicator problem.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's the pitfalls of buying second hand, and can be applied to any vehicle, not just your Freelander. In reality, once sorted, they are generally very reliable.
That's normal. It's actually very common to do large amounts of disassembly to remove a headlight unit on any modern vehicle. An increasing number of modern vehicles need the bumper or grills removing, so headlights can be removed, just to change the bulbs. A Freelander is much less work than that.
I'm curious as to why the indicator connection should corrode. They don't get wet, splashed or dirty in normal circumstances, unless the access holes in the wheel arches are missing the covers. If that's the case, it's a previous owner causing the problem, not the design of the vehicle.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
@Old diver indicator problem is a current thread @Nodge68 - the only feedback is my experience of the contact in the headlight unit burning out...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-indicators.342855/
So long as you can see an end to the list of problems @Old diver I'd say give it a go because they should be reliable and you look to have replaced most of the parts that do fail!
If it is a contact on the headlight unit and you go through the (probable) pain of removing the bumper at least you'll know you'll be able to remove it again quickly in future (once all those screws have been loosened/replaced) - which is great because it means you'll never need to do it again
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-indicators.342855/
So long as you can see an end to the list of problems @Old diver I'd say give it a go because they should be reliable and you look to have replaced most of the parts that do fail!
If it is a contact on the headlight unit and you go through the (probable) pain of removing the bumper at least you'll know you'll be able to remove it again quickly in future (once all those screws have been loosened/replaced) - which is great because it means you'll never need to do it again
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Take a look at the earth point on the inner wing, just behind the headlight. I've seen corrosion on the individual wires at that point before now.
Will do as soon as it stops raining
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's been hideous down here this morning. I've seen flooding in places where it doesn't normally flood, including my garage floor.
well here goes
got it up in the air on 4 axle stands
the diff mounts were goosed so replaced them
on the prop the bearings seem fine but a lot of play in the rubber surrounding the bearing
the damper thingy the metal ring has come loose and was flying around
ive removed both props and split them down
as the vc was now off the car i did the check on it whilst one end was held in a vice
i put a 1.2 meter bar on the free end with 5 kg hanging on it
it took about 45 seconds to do 45 degrees is that ok ?
that damper ring can you put it together without using it?
i think i read somewhere the early ones never had it
wheres the best place to buy prop bearings?
theres thousands on ebay any recommendations
cheers in advance
i might get to drive it soon
got it up in the air on 4 axle stands
the diff mounts were goosed so replaced them
on the prop the bearings seem fine but a lot of play in the rubber surrounding the bearing
the damper thingy the metal ring has come loose and was flying around
ive removed both props and split them down
as the vc was now off the car i did the check on it whilst one end was held in a vice
i put a 1.2 meter bar on the free end with 5 kg hanging on it
it took about 45 seconds to do 45 degrees is that ok ?
that damper ring can you put it together without using it?
i think i read somewhere the early ones never had it
wheres the best place to buy prop bearings?
theres thousands on ebay any recommendations
cheers in advance
i might get to drive it soon
I might be wrong and Nodge or Grumpygel will be on to talk to you, but I don’t think you can bench test the vcu. I fitted Bearmach vcu bearings which cost me £93.30. Got them from Ian Sim ltd, who is an independent Land Rover specialist in Ladybank, Fife. They have been on for a couple of thousand miles and no problem. Nodge did a good write up on re fitting with photos. Search for it on the site.
yep ive read his write up very comprehensive
i didnt check the vc i just ploughed in and took it all out
so obviously now its off i cant check the way he showed
found out what the noise was on the o/s
its the o/s flitch top mount
it d be nice if there is a way i can check the vc whilst its off
or ill do it when its all built up
cheers
i didnt check the vc i just ploughed in and took it all out
so obviously now its off i cant check the way he showed
found out what the noise was on the o/s
its the o/s flitch top mount
it d be nice if there is a way i can check the vc whilst its off
or ill do it when its all built up
cheers
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
You can check it in a similar way to on the car. Use soft jaws and clamp one splined end in a vice. Either use a uj fitting on the other end or I have used a mole grip wrench with the teeth in the splines locked on then put a tube over it. Times will be shorter. I think you divide wheel times by 3 as diff is 3:1. I would expect to see 15 secs or less with 5Kg on 1.2m bar for a bench test. Hippo has posted bench times on this forum for you to compare.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
The bench test is exactly the same as the test when it on the car - but I can't remember if it should be longer or shorter - I suppose shorter as without the diff its the same as having a bar that's 3 times longer. Mind you that could all be wrong to!
Bell Engineering have a video on YouTube - they use a shorter bar and heavier weight than the data collected here, but it shows a time of about 7 seconds for their units...
Bell Engineering have a video on YouTube - they use a shorter bar and heavier weight than the data collected here, but it shows a time of about 7 seconds for their units...
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
45 seconds is ok. Once the timings reach 1 minute, it's time for a refurbished VCU.
It'll work fine without the damper.
Avoid cheap, no name EBay types and avoid Bearmach and Britpart too. The only bearings worth fitting are OE or original LR, which means only GKN are any good .
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
45 secs off car is too long imo. That would be over 2 mins on car??
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
On the car, not off.
I was referring to his original OWUT giving 45 seconds, which is ok.
Off the car, the VCU should time about 1/6th of the on car test.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Op says......"as the vc was now off the car i did the check on it whilst one end was held in a vice
i put a 1.2 meter bar on the free end with 5 kg hanging on it
it took about 45 seconds to do 45degrees is that ok ?"
i put a 1.2 meter bar on the free end with 5 kg hanging on it
it took about 45 seconds to do 45degrees is that ok ?"
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Just been out and turned wheel. One turn of wheel is three turns of prop. So should be 1/3 time off car?? Or am I missing sommat. Had nothing else to do as in power cut due to high winds!!
