pgolonek · Apr 15, 2014

Hi I just bought LR Freelander Td4 2004 reg. for £2400
it's drive very nice, not rattling no shake on steering wheel, drive's very nice
but there is a dark side of that car too, U can see it on pic's
car has been checked by Independent Land Rover Garage at Preston Lanc's
they said its ok

but I cannot sleep thinking about when car will die on the middle of the road

will do more pic if needed for opinion
please any advice welcome

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7oS46kRPolBTXRGOFM3NzlKNDg&usp=sharing
big thx

fanatic · Apr 15, 2014

Slight leak

baptista · Apr 15, 2014

is it your first Land Rover? when it stops leaking it's cause it ran out of oil, then there is a problem.

if it bothers you that much take of the sump guard and clean the engine so you can identify origin of leak, if it is just a slight leak don't worry and just check the oil level regularly. that's what I've been doing for 6 years of ownership.

pgolonek · Apr 15, 2014

baptista said:
is it your first Land Rover? when it stops leaking it's cause it ran out of oil, then there is a problem.

if it bothers you that much take of the sump guard and clean the engine so you can identify origin of leak, if it is just a slight leak don't worry and just check the oil level regularly. that's what I've been doing for 6 years of ownership.

Yes it is my first Land Rover (may be these weird but been dream on about LR since were kid)
it's look like will do service with oils on all boxes
is it normal when turning on first gear it go slowly like been pressed brake gently?

Epicuser · Apr 16, 2014

pgolonek said:
Yes it is my first Land Rover (may be these weird but been dream on about LR since were kid)
it's look like will do service with oils on all boxes
is it normal when turning on first gear it go slowly like been pressed brake gently?

How many miles has it done?

Does it feel like the handbrake is on when reversing on full lock?

baptista · Apr 16, 2014

oils and filter changes are always a good starting point on a new 10 year old car, also should also check last time timing chain and belts where replaced, slow on cornering in full lock is it dragging one of the wheels? check the VCU, do the 1 wheel up test as on the sticky threads.

pgolonek · Apr 16, 2014

It has 115,800 k miles on clock
Mechanic from Independent LR garage checked visco after 20 min. drive test on road with some bars he said was all right.
When reverse on full turn may say its braking but hard to feel
Will do one wheel up test, maybe at weekend.
Thx for help

pgolonek · Apr 16, 2014

baptista said:
oils and filter changes are always a good starting point on a new 10 year old car, also should also check last time timing chain and belts where replaced, slow on cornering in full lock is it dragging one of the wheels? check the VCU, do the 1 wheel up test as on the sticky threads.

Does that test have to be after long trip (warm visco) or more cooled?

RealBeale · Apr 16, 2014

Well really obvious from the pics are the mis-matching tyres. Looks like AT's at the front and road tyres rear. This needs to be sorted ASAP as it's a leading cause of component failure on the drive train.

pgolonek · Apr 16, 2014

RealBeale said:
Well really obvious from the pics are the mis-matching tyres. Looks like AT's at the front and road tyres rear. This needs to be sorted ASAP as it's a leading cause of component failure on the drive train.

so here we go... mechanic said its ok with that if thread is about the same
now its look like another 400 quid for new rubber

RealBeale · Apr 16, 2014

pgolonek said:
so here we go... mechanic said its ok with that if thread is about the same
now its look like another 400 quid for new rubber

AT tyres will handle differently to ordinary tyres, so regardless of what vehicle they are on it's never a good idea to mix and match from a safety point of view. It's just that Freelandaes are even less tolerant due to it's drivetrain.
However, you may only need to buy a pair to match to whichever style tyre has the tread that suits you. But again they will need to be like for like and not "similair" from a different brand, and always the newest on the rear.

Tannaton · Apr 16, 2014

pgolonek said:
so here we go... mechanic said its ok with that if thread is about the same
now its look like another 400 quid for new rubber

If the mechanic said that then I would view him with caution.... he know not what he is talking about. The vitally important matter is that all of the tyres have the same circumference - if you have mis-matched makes and types then that is unlikely to be the case. You will probably find that 1 in 20 threads on this forum are about drive-train problems caused by mismatched tyres.

Don't go far until you have 4 matching tyres... looks a nice vehicle would be a shame to ruin it.

As others have said, keep an eye on the oil levels and what it leaves on the drive. For many, this is routine.

pgolonek · Apr 16, 2014

Right. At front axle I've got hankook AT 195 x 80 x 15 so Im going to buy same make with same thread.
Rear axle is same size but no AT.
I understand cannot expect a lot of tires worth £60 each.

Going this way, the mechanic test with crowbars about viscous coupling its worth ****.

Now I'm on panic mode, for how long that car been running on them tires like that?!
I did 400 miles now
OMG

Ian jones · Apr 16, 2014

Looks ok for the price

take heed on the advice given by fellow members regarding tyres

match all 4 make/model/size , plenty of info on here , it just needs some TLC

pgolonek · Apr 16, 2014

Will do, there is no other way !

Ian jones · Apr 16, 2014

pgolonek said:
Will do, there is no other way !

If you are getting no drone at speed the tyres on the car by chance may be within tolerance , so driving the 400 miles may not have caused any damage , another check is to feel the VCU after a run if is cold/warm that is normal , if it is very hot then you have got problems , theres only 5mm tolerance between front and rear tyres , which is not much

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