nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Ahh.. the last disco i had got a 2' lift thats why i dint av to jack it up, Not without drilling it
Mine has no lift nath and the diff guard went on with no problems.
bought them from paddocks on offer a while back. just use the little groove in the ring to slide it up the diff and into place, its a bit fiddly getting the bolts tight but a ring spanner and small socket set sorted it.
bought them from paddocks on offer a while back. just use the little groove in the ring to slide it up the diff and into place, its a bit fiddly getting the bolts tight but a ring spanner and small socket set sorted it.
probbably depends on tank type and amount of ****e in the boot
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
You got the single bolt type? Ones i got av 2 bolts with an allen key head... got rid of the lower front bumper this morning... Steering guard'd useful
two bolts on the top of the ring but to one side there is a notch cut out (sort of half circle shape) that fit nicely over the centre of the diff. Just slid it up from there and moved it till it was in the right position and tightened it up. Simples
these are what I bought PM121 Diff Guard - zinc coated (usually 14.95GBP)
these are what I bought PM121 Diff Guard - zinc coated (usually 14.95GBP)
not sure tbh goony, boot is usually pretty empty thanks to having no cover and late 300tdi if that is a different tank
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Yer thats the ones... the site ses exc vat but they were all in at that pricetwo bolts on the top of the ring but to one side there is a notch cut out (sort of half circle shape) that fit nicely over the centre of the diff. Just slid it up from there and moved it till it was in the right position and tightened it up. Simples
these are what I bought PM121 Diff Guard - zinc coated (usually 14.95GBP)
one thing i did notice though is i cant get to my rear diff plug now, the guard sits too far up and blocks the filler plug. Tried it on the front and rear and it did the same so must be a design fault as the other is fine but for the price i have kept it (couldnt be arsed to pay to post it back )
)
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
I fink u av ter turn the guard round till it exposes the plug then tighten em up... thats wot i did anywayone thing i did notice though is i cant get to my rear diff plug now, the guard sits too far up and blocks the filler plug. Tried it on the front and rear and it did the same so must be a design fault as the other is fine but for the price i have kept it (couldnt be arsed to pay to post it back
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Of coursei just set them up so the drain hole was at the bottom, will worry about fluids when i do them
as long as they protect your diffs mate thats whats important
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Still aint got a rear recovery point
kingsonlim
New Member
Still aint got a rear recovery point
you want some jate rings? have got 2 cast alloy type here that I can send along with your bits.....
kingsonlim
New Member
Welded i couldnt get hold of the forged ones n thems way too dear fer me, Ive had a bit of a nightmare this afternoon..... had to jackrear up right up to get the diff guard on the tank was in the way...had to put2 holes in the top of the rear bumper to get the tow bar bolts out that some tw@ had cut heads of.....
The anchor points where jake rings go are these the same lugs the lower tow bar brackets fit to? theres a bolt in both of em but no heads or nuts and they is stuck solid any ideas how to get em out? i started to drill the 1 out but just burning the bits out i assume they is high tensile bolts... so atm im stuck with no rear recovery point
the anchor point on the photo is indeed where the tow bar and or jate ring bolts on. It appears that there's a tow bar fitted before on your disco...
to get it off, you've got 2 choices:
1) heat the anchor point using a blow torch, then either using a hammer or a locking plier and try to wiggle the bolt out.........BE EXTRA CAREFUL WITH THE BLOW TORCH, AS FUEL TANK IS NEXT TO IT...
2) use a hammer, and an old + screw driver......try to punch the bolt out the other side.......you wont be able to move the bolt out the other side totally as fuel tank is in the way.....however, once you've started the bolt moving, they can be pull out with a locking plier.....
I went for option 2 earlier today when the bolt head snapped, while removing the tow bar...
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Ive treid lampin fook out of em no give at all.. gonna av to try heating it up
kingsonlim
New Member
Ive treid lampin fook out of em no give at all.. gonna av to try heating it up
maybe you're not hammering it hard enough....
I started with a claw hammer....no movement....then resorted to a 5 lbs hammer.....when the bolt moved towards the fuel tank...I used a cold chisel, and hammer it back.......by now, the bolt should have been loose enough to be drawn out with a locking plier.....good luck..!!!!
you want some jate rings? have got 2 cast alloy type here that I can send along with your bits.....
How much do you want for them Kingy? Could poss take them off your hands if you don't need them
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Used a blow torch n big ommer ****ed out (eventually ) so now i got recovery points front n rear still tinkering with the idea of tyres tho
) so now i got recovery points front n rear still tinkering with the idea of tyres tho kingsonlim
New Member
Used a blow torch n big ommer ****ed out (eventually
good thing you've got them bolts out...other wise, the tow bar won't fit...
the tyres you mentioned earlier are cheap....dont think you'll go wrong at that price...
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Could do with getting some steel rims to put em on
