farmershort

farmershort

Well-Known Member
ok, so ignoring the fact that since I replaced the rear wheel bearing, the landy feels like she's wobbling apart - I now have another problem!

for the last week of two, I've had one or two cases of the clutch pedal sticking in the down position, and I have to lift it up with my toe to get it to spring back...

today it's started happening ALOT. it seems that pushing the pedal down all the way sometimes doesn't disengage the drive. This means It's had to stall a couple of times to stop me driving into the car in front!

Driving several hundred miles down south tonight... :(

from the searches I've done I've turned up a couple of things about master and slave cylinders, but it seems hard to pin down which one, and that it's not something else
 
bmp42 said:
try bleeding the clutch first as it sounds like you have air in the system
Click to expand...

Ok. I'll give it a go - hopefully the haynes has the details, and hopefully it's a simple and quick job. I'll need to pick some fluid up - I'll check on GTR what is the correct one.

Thanks

FS
 
IIRC it's Dot 3 or 4. Sounds stupid but have you checked the return spring (if you have one) on the side of the pedal?
 
To late :( game over :( broken down at the leics end of the m69! Clutch pedal won't work at all now, so can't get it out of neutral and into gear.
 
At your own risk
if your not towing you can try engaging gear and start engine (second or third)
if you match engine speed to road speed it is possible to change without clutch.

Or wait for recovery.
 
Recovery to my local garage is on its way apparently, so they'd only get ****ed off if I called them off. I don't want to fcuk up the gear box either - enough problems for 1 month!

From what I've read of previous posts, if it goes like this, then it's prob something to do with a fork and a bolt wearing through something? Sound right? Could it still possibly be a nice cheap master cylinder repair?
 
Sounds like the slave cylinder to me..check if theres any fluid left..if not, thats where i'd start..cheap too.
 
Oh please let it just be that!!!

The highways agency man has made me stand behind the barrier - lol. I'l" check the fluid level when I'm at the garage. Thanks.
 
Oh please let it just be that!!!

The highways agency man has made me stand behind the barrier - lol. I'l" check the fluid level when I'm at the garage. Thanks.
 
farmershort said:
Oh please let it just be that!!!

The highways agency man has made me stand behind the barrier - lol. I'l" check the fluid level when I'm at the garage. Thanks.
Click to expand...

fork worn through or clutch plate breaking up are my guesses.

I woulda done what fanatic said and driven it. Seeing as yer on the motorway I woulda got up to fourth gear and then stayed in it til I got off the motorway.
 
Dun't say what injun, but if it's a Td5 my guess is hole punched through pressed steel release fork.
 
Grippa said:
Dun't say what injun, but if it's a Td5 my guess is hole punched through pressed steel release fork.
Click to expand...

I'm told (but unable to confirm) that the fork on a TD5 is cast and not pressed unlike the 300tdi ones to which you are referring.
 
ratty said:
Now you've advanced to a more up to date steam engine are you allowed to take it off road or are ya grounded?:)
Click to expand...

Nope, fully qualified ter bust it as orften as I wish. :D

Enjoying driving it as is, but frunt valance & rear plough need ter come orf & it wun't be long before it gets matt blacked and toyed up a bit. ;)
 
Grippa said:
Nope, fully qualified ter bust it as orften as I wish. :D

Enjoying driving it as is, but frunt valance & rear plough need ter come orf & it wun't be long before it gets matt blacked and toyed up a bit. ;)
Click to expand...

:Dbonus:D

Will this one be fitted with the patented 'gripsybabes tarpaulin waterproofing system'? ;):p
 
smallTN296-6.jpg
 
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