Remington rolling block

Remington rolling block

Active Member
Hello all,
Way back in august last year I had a few problems with power loss after I changed an oil pump. The power loss I fixed ( split turbo hose) But my original problem ( oil pump) is back...
Ok this is what happens, Short drives, cold weather no probs. it plays up once a go a distance or put it under load, ie, motorway or digging me out of the mud.... While driving its fine but stop and let it tick over oil light comes on, smallist rise in revs and light goes out...... However if while driving I keep the heater going full blast it doesn't happen.
Now in August I changed the oil pump rotors, pressure release valve and spring, new radiator/oil cooler. All seemed fine, no probs with anything. Now I have the same problem back, the only thing I didn't change was the oil cooler thermostat,,,,,, could this be my problem or am I looking at a lot of work and expence. Anyone got any ideas............. oooops sorry its a 1995 300TDI 90
 
check actual pressure at idle when hot as well as max pressure,and what oil are you using
if you have actual low pressure its rarely anything to do with the pump normally a bearing or bearings
 
Last edited:
as above, it may not be the pump that's the issue but a rather worn engine - checking a main bearing would answer the question I would assume
 
Remington rolling block said:
Hello all,
Way back in august last year I had a few problems with power loss after I changed an oil pump. The power loss I fixed ( split turbo hose) But my original problem ( oil pump) is back...
Ok this is what happens, Short drives, cold weather no probs. it plays up once a go a distance or put it under load, ie, motorway or digging me out of the mud.... While driving its fine but stop and let it tick over oil light comes on, smallist rise in revs and light goes out...... However if while driving I keep the heater going full blast it doesn't happen.
Now in August I changed the oil pump rotors, pressure release valve and spring, new radiator/oil cooler. All seemed fine, no probs with anything. Now I have the same problem back, the only thing I didn't change was the oil cooler thermostat,,,,,, could this be my problem or am I looking at a lot of work and expence. Anyone got any ideas............. oooops sorry its a 1995 300TDI 90
Click to expand...

Have you changed the oil pressure sensor?
 
Just read your post again, re the heater somehow cooling the engine and hence oil enough to stop it thinning and losing pressure. Highly unlikely, hopefully it's just your pressure switch.
 
Thank you gentlemen, given me a few things to try. Ive just got back from a 30mile round trip on duel carriageways,,,,, it didn't happen ??????
No I hadn't changed the oil pressure switch but will do
Yes I had changed the oil and filter .
Its had been fine for 6months, cant see it being a badly worn motor as runs nice and quiet even at start up, I do think an oil pressure gauge could answer some of the questons.
 
Could it be an electrical fault with the heater fan drawing more current? I would expect this to make it worse but you never know.
 
With your heater going full belt you are cooling the engine coolant which goes through the heater matrix which in turn will cool the oil/engine so oil light is not coming on, sounds like worn bearings to me, I have had this on one of my old cars, white metal was wiped from big end bearings.
 
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Remington rolling block said:
Thank you gentlemen, given me a few things to try. Ive just got back from a 30mile round trip on duel carriageways,,,,, it didn't happen ??????
No I hadn't changed the oil pressure switch but will do
Yes I had changed the oil and filter .
Its had been fine for 6months, cant see it being a badly worn motor as runs nice and quiet even at start up, I do think an oil pressure gauge could answer some of the questons.
Click to expand...

I would try getting a switch, they are only a few quid, and I have had them fail on many engines over the years.
If it doesn't work, try getting a gauge and checking the actual pressure.
Highly likely it is an instrument fault, they are more common than drastically worn engines.
 
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Pressure gauge, switch and thermostat on order.
Looking on the black side can the mains / big ends be changed with the engine in situ, working on my own without a crank
 
Logical first steps to change switch and check oil pressure but check what the pressure is under same conditions your light comes on when hot and ticking over.
The fact that when heater is running full belt and giving more cooling the light goes out is the clue to hot thin oil and possible worn bearings. Or wrong viscosity oil.
 
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Good morning Gentlemen,,,,,,,,,,, Well ill add to the confusions lol.
Ok the heater affecting the oil light, If I have the heater going from start up I don't get the light coming on no matter how far I drive, if I put it on once everything is hot it will cool things and the light problem gets less, just get the odd flicker at tick over.. Now for the confusion bit, the son in law came yesterday and I gave him a lift home, started her up from cold and he said " them tappets need adjusting Pop" I hadn't noticed,,,,,, could this be worn rocker bushes and shaft,,,,,, I say this cos im not getting any funny noises from the bottom end and the rattily tappets went away after about a minute or two,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ok now a real off the wall dumby question is ir poss I have the tick over set too low, id guess its ticking over at about 650/700rpm , but im guessing, I say this cos the slightest rise in revs the problem goes away,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ok you can all have a laff now lol,,,,, yes im clutching at straws,,,, with no crane if its an engine out job it just aint gona happen.
ps, thanks for the help lads ;)
 
For me that tick over is low,800 min.If tappets need adjusting then do so before worring about anything else.
 
I dont think its due to low tickover as you can normally get oil light to go out on an engine by cranking it over, I have checked that oil pressure is ok after a rebuild this way, before fitting leads and starting the engine.
Raising the tickover may help keep the light out but its unlikely to be the cause of the problem.
 
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What oil are you putting in it? The modern thin stuff is not ideal for an older engine, l would suggest 10w/40 or even 20w/50 in an old 300tdi particularly if it’s done over 100,000 miles
 
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jamesmartin said:
check actual pressure at idle when hot as well as max pressure,and what oil are you using
if you have actual low pressure its rarely anything to do with the pump normally a bearing or bearings
Click to expand...

@Remington rolling block - It's worth answering the questions in the above post ! :):):)

You need to know the ACTUAL pressure at idle - not some £1 switch's "impression" of the pressure on a good day when mars was in venus..... o_O

Buy and fit a good gauge - Zeaphod mentioned Durite - damn fine stuff IMHO. Fit the gauge on a tee piece with the original crappy switch and you will then KNOW, beyond doubt what is going on! ;) ( then leave the gauge in place and junk the switch :D )

SWMBO's 300Tdi (97) had a flickering oil light a couple of months ago - the switch had actually burst :eek: - oil pressure was actually 60 psi across the board :) - and a new switch stopped the light flickering :rolleyes:. Took me far longer to clean the mess up - shame it didn't spray oil inside the chassis where it might have done some good :mad::mad::mad:. Also cost more in engine oil than it did for the POS switch.

Don't forget to tell us which oil you are using too :)
 
I have got a Durite on order, should be here Monday/Tuesday. Cant remember what oil it is ( thrown the cans away now) all I can remember was asking for turbo diesel suitable oil
 
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