You will not have any problems bleeding the brakes.
You will not have any problems bleeding the brakes.
BOOMER
Bloke from Dorset
I'm beginning to wonder if you may have air getting back into the system somehow, are all your pipes/unions either new or airtight and fit for purpose?
Also where exactly is this nut, are you inferring that you've attached it between the clutch fork in the bell housing and the end of the slave cylinder piston?
There should be absolutely no need for it! If you've had cause to do this then something is very, very wrong and I'm beginning to wonder if you're going to have to strip it out and start again.
Clutch forks can bend, that would necessitate shimming out with a nut as you have to bring the pedal back up, they're not that expensive to replace
I'm beginning to wonder if you may have air getting back into the system somehow, are all your pipes/unions either new or airtight and fit for purpose?
Also where exactly is this nut, are you inferring that you've attached it between the clutch fork in the bell housing and the end of the slave cylinder piston?
There should be absolutely no need for it! If you've had cause to do this then something is very, very wrong and I'm beginning to wonder if you're going to have to strip it out and start again.
Clutch forks can bend, that would necessitate shimming out with a nut as you have to bring the pedal back up, they're not that expensive to replace
One of my discos had a shaped spacer between the cylinder rod and the clutch arm, looked like a proper part as it clipped on somehow, it was about quarter inch thick
BOOMER
Bloke from Dorset
One of my discos had a shaped spacer between the cylinder rod and the clutch arm, looked like a proper part as it clipped on somehow, it was about quarter inch thick
That's that stoopid bloody plastic clip that keeps the slave cylinder and the clutch fork married up, acts as a bit of a wear pad as well, easily broken
Useing the nut was a one off just to see if it made any difference on clutch release it didnt, as I say I have change every part of the clutch nothing is now original, all unions are tight, feed pipe was replaced yesterday because like you I thought perhaps air is leaking past the union, the only part I have not renewed is the damper which went straight into the bin.I'm beginning to wonder if you may have air getting back into the system somehow, are all your pipes/unions either new or airtight and fit for purpose?
Also where exactly is this nut, are you inferring that you've attached it between the clutch fork in the bell housing and the end of the slave cylinder piston?
There should be absolutely no need for it! If you've had cause to do this then something is very, very wrong and I'm beginning to wonder if you're going to have to strip it out and start again.
Clutch forks can bend, that would necessitate shimming out with a nut as you have to bring the pedal back up, they're not that expensive to replace
BOOMER
Bloke from Dorset
I'm now right out of suggestions, why not PM jamesmartin and ask him if he could shed any light?
The lever could bend but I really can’t see that being the problem as this problem started as soon as I replaced the clutch, and has been ongoing now for nearly a year as I have tried different things, I am fast now coming to the conclusion I am going to have to pull the bloody engine again, after replacing this clutch as I say this problem started so I pulled the engine out again and checked everything, all looked fine, replaced engine problem still there, pulled engine again everything looked fine, so replaced clutch with another new Borg & Beck just in case it was presure plate, put it all back together still the same and here I am still fighting with this bloody clutch.
I think I have spoken to James before about this but I maybe wrong, I'll give him a message. thanks for your help.
BOOMER
Bloke from Dorset
And what were the original symptoms that prompted you to change the clutch the first time?
