border · Mar 28, 2020

Gonna make a start on getting the inside finished. Got some of this stuff, don't know what it is called My son got it from work, he said they were using it in-between big concrete slabs on house foundations . Anyway it looks like it will be good for underlaying before carpet.
Juat wondering whats the best for sticking it down on to body. Gonna start in Cab on seat base , tunnel, footwells ect. before I put Carpet on top of it. Will also use it to line rear sides and roof too.
Its 10 mil thick, not sure if I should double it up as I have enough. Light stuff easy to cut., .

Wimblowdriver · Mar 29, 2020

That looks like a product called Hydrocell. Widely used in the construction industry, will make an excellent sound proofing in yer landy. We used to stick it to concrete with a glue which came in large tins at an eye wateringly expensive cost, but looked exactly like clear bostik. If you goggle Hydrocell you should find all you need to know about it and what type of glue to use. Or just trial and error (to make sure the glue doesn't dissolve it) with glue of your choice.

TheQ · Mar 29, 2020

If it doesn't melt it then high temperature impact adhesive.

border · Mar 29, 2020

Wimblowdriver said:
That looks like a product called Hydrocell. Widely used in the construction industry, will make an excellent sound proofing in yer landy. We used to stick it to concrete with a glue which came in large tins at an eye wateringly expensive cost, but looked exactly like clear bostik. If you goggle Hydrocell you should find all you need to know about it and what type of glue to use. Or just trial and error (to make sure the glue doesn't dissolve it) with glue of your choice.

Thanks he didn't mention Glue but will ask him. Might double it up to 20 mil in rear tub sides

TheQ said:
If it doesn't melt it then high temperature impact adhesive.

Might get a tin of this to try. https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-contact-adhesive-natural-500ml/32657
.

payydg · Mar 29, 2020

Impact adhesive. Worth adding some high density sound proofing to then cut out the whole freq spectrum, you can buy it quite cheap basically sticky back tar sheets with thick aluminium foil on top.

border · Mar 29, 2020

payydg said:
Impact adhesive. Worth adding some high density sound proofing to then cut out the whole freq spectrum, you can buy it quite cheap basically sticky back tar sheets with thick aluminium foil on top.

Glue from Screwfix works a treat, this Hydrocell stuff should act as a Sounproof hopefully,
Just need a Good bit of Hardwearing Carpet for Cab

payydg · Mar 29, 2020

border said:
Glue from Screwfix works a treat, this Hydrocell stuff should act as a Sounproof hopefully,
Just need a Good bit of Hardwearing Carpet for Cab

What I mean is technically closed cell only cuts out part of the sounds freq range to cut out the other part something high density is needed (like the aluminium backed tar stuff I mentioned). However that’s probably more applicable to a studio and on a land rover It’s a bit academic.

border · Mar 31, 2020

Just Drivers side floor pan to do then Cabs done, not very tidy but wont be seen.
Gonna cut some checker plate lids for the seat box, not sure how to fix them down , Any Ideas ? Then I can get my seats fitted.
Only going to Carpet the Cab, Probably put Plywood in the back.

Mcclegend · Mar 31, 2020

border · Mar 31, 2020

Mcclegend said:

Thanks Mate, See he put the sound stuff in First, then the foam, Suppose I could put some on top of my stuff, My doors have been welded up so no rust there, Ive also undersealed the bottoms of Floor pans and rear tub and wheel arches. Its not All about Soundproofing but more to try and make it look neat and tidy, as some you see have nothing at all in, just metal floors and footwells.
I still have the Origional headliners but they need a good steam clean before refitting.

frog hopper · Mar 31, 2020

border said:
Thanks Mate, See he put the sound stuff in First, then the foam, Suppose I could put some on top of my stuff, My doors have been welded up so no rust there, Ive also undersealed the bottoms of Floor pans and rear tub and wheel arches. Its not All about Soundproofing but more to try and make it look neat and tidy, as some you see have nothing at all in, just metal floors and footwells.
I still have the Origional headliners but they need a good steam clean before refitting.

DO NOT steam clean your headlinings, the fabric is held (thats a joke) onto the backing board with a thin layer of foam which will already be thinking about failing. Over time the foam turns into powder and you end up sitting in a Bedouin tent, if your headlining is OK treat it with care and it might last a bit longer.

border · Apr 1, 2020

frog hopper said:
DO NOT steam clean your headlinings, the fabric is held (thats a joke) onto the backing board with a thin layer of foam which will already be thinking about failing. Over time the foam turns into powder and you end up sitting in a Bedouin tent, if your headlining is OK treat it with care and it might last a bit longer.

Thanks Will try something else.

frog hopper · Apr 1, 2020

stevema said:
Today I spent 6 hours on top of 3 yesterday to clean off the old fabric from the headlining. Still not done. Awful job
View attachment 204225

Here you go, from off the RR bit.

dag019 · Apr 1, 2020

border said:
Just Drivers side floor pan to do then Cabs done, not very tidy but wont be seen.
Gonna cut some checker plate lids for the seat box, not sure how to fix them down , Any Ideas ? Then I can get my seats fitted.
Only going to Carpet the Cab, Probably put Plywood in the back.

Looks good but may be worth at this point cutting some access holes for the floor panel and tunnel bolts so you can remove them easily in future if needed. When I did mine I did not do this, and it made changing the clutch far more time consuming as I had to locate and cut access to all of the bolts and screws which by this time has been hot, and stood on, so all of the bituminous sound proofing I put down first was well and truly embedded into the bolt heads.

border · Apr 1, 2020

dag019 said:
Looks good but may be worth at this point cutting some access holes for the floor panel and tunnel bolts so you can remove them easily in future if needed. When I did mine I did not do this, and it made changing the clutch far more time consuming as I had to locate and cut access to all of the bolts and screws which by this time has been hot, and stood on, so all of the bituminous sound proofing I put down first was well and truly embedded into the bolt heads.

Yes Mate, was thinking about that. I'm going to cut round all bolts for access in the future, then put some thick rubber on top of floor plans which I will carpet separate on top so I can lift in and out, if you get what I mean.

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