TSR2

TSR2

Active Member
Next week is time for me replacing at least one of the injectors. I know #1 is over-fuelling and 3# under-fuelling so I'm going to replace #1 and see if that works for now. I've found some excellent how-tos on here and the MG75 group for the actual process of removing the injector, my question really is before the work starts what washers, seals, o-rings etc. should I get and replace during the work. I only cleaned and replaced all the seals in the inlet manifold a few months ago, so assume those are okay but I'd be grateful to know what else should I replace in the process and if anyone can post links to specific items I'd be grateful.

Next, if things go well, is the diff mounts as the clunking is getting annoying and I want it sorted before I head off, any recommendations for good aftermarket/OEM, or should I spring for LR parts? Thanks in advance.
 
Have you thought of taking apart the injectors and cleaning them? It is not for the faint hearted abut can be done and you might as well give it a go if you already have a spare.
I took my injectors out and only had new copper washers and got away with it. I'm not sure if I should have had other stuff though.
Poly diff bushes are available on ebay and are much cheaper but you have to get the old ones out of the brackets. It's not easy but doable.
 
TSR2
make sure the engine is hot before you pry out the injector other wise it will be hard for you, them you may have to use a slide hammer, clean around the injector before hand with an hoover if you can as you do not want debris dropping into the injector port, these are the copper rings you will need below, always add new copper rings when any injector as been removed, the manifold seals will be fine as they are good luck,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271471329904

You may also want to think of replacing your plastic T connector on the injectors as they can go brittle over time
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
I’ve bought a used but tested injector and then I plan to get the one I’ve taken out refurbished to eventually replace number 3. I’ve seen a video and/or a thread on how to DIY so I may give it a go, depends on how my nerves are after taking it out!
 
Arctic2 said:
TSR2
make sure the engine is hot before you pry out the injector other wise it will be hard for you, them you may have to use a slide hammer, clean around the injector before hand with an hoover if you can as you do not want debris dropping into the injector port, these are the copper rings you will need below, always add new copper rings when any injector as been removed, the manifold seals will be fine as they are good luck,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271471329904

You may also want to think of replacing your plastic T connector on the injectors as they can go brittle over time
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-TD4-BRASS-LEAK-OFF-CONNECTOR-KIT-3-x-180-1-x-90-1m-Pipe/281404361492?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Click to expand...

All noted, it is your how-to that I’m going to follow (assuming that was your post on the MG forum!)
 
TSR2 said:
All noted, it is your how-to that I’m going to follow (assuming that was your post on the MG forum!)
Click to expand...

It could well be if it is the one where I advised to use a metal bar to pry off, this saves cracking the cam cover.
 
Arctic2 said:
It could well be if it is the one where I advised to use a metal bar to pry off, this saves cracking the cam cover.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that’s the one.

From what I can tell, it’s useless spraying anything like PlusGas in there beforehand.
 
TSR2 said:
Yeah, that’s the one.

From what I can tell, it’s useless spraying anything like PlusGas in there beforehand.
Click to expand...

As long as the engine is hot before hand, lets say give it a 5/10 miles drive then after about 10 minutes of cooling down remover the manifold, loosen and remove the injector nuts either side of the injector, remove the fuel pipes around that injector, place the bar across the cam cover and gently pry upwards the injector should come loose for you.

CNJ4eNql.jpg
1

H2ddaWzl.jpg
2

qrgg7qkl.jpg
3

YpUkfKml.jpg
4

Eg5mAzGl.jpg
5
 
Last edited:
Seems a silly question, but do you know roughly how wide is that pry-bar? I’ve one but it’s a bit industrial.
 
So you're not talking about the o-ring that is part of the leak-off replacement kit, this is a different o-ring. Sorry for coming across as dumb, I just don't want to miss out something.
 
TSR2 said:
So you're not talking about the o-ring that is part of the leak-off replacement kit, this is a different o-ring. Sorry for coming across as dumb, I just don't want to miss out something.
Click to expand...

andyfreelandy said:
shopping
The O ring about 1" down from the fuel connector.
Click to expand...

here you go chaps close up of said O-ring
 

Attachments

  • SDC16227.JPG
    SDC16227.JPG
    170.7 KB · Views: 128
  • SDC16228.JPG
    SDC16228.JPG
    275.3 KB · Views: 129
So, my used injector arrived and it's for an automatic. Unsurprisingly, the guy I bought it off is now ignoring me - so my question is can you fit an auto injector to a manual engine?
 
Difference is unclear. My previous TD4 had a mix and now I run an auto with 4 manual injectors!! Seems fine either way but your call!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Rear diff issues
Replies
5
Views
819
niko-h
N
J
F1: leaking rear diff - repairable?
Replies
2
Views
383
JackGriffin1933
J
OlympicLiftingPaulF
Brake Shield and MOT
Replies
10
Views
720
xDParis64
xDParis64
spacebrodie
Freelander 2 (LR2) Cut out - P0045-19
Replies
6
Views
728
Arctic2
Arctic2
S
Lucas Starter Motor on Freelander 1
Replies
11
Views
687
Andy Warren
Andy Warren