bluedog333

Well-Known Member
Does anyone actually make/supply a decent switch unit that actually functions properly out of the box and stays functioning for more than a couple of years? My last two have been Lucas and both haven’t lasted 2 years. I know they’re a simple, crap design, but surely they’re meant to last a bit longer?
 
I bought one from Dongoshaft last year, think that were Lucas and it's still going ok. Maybe it's yer hamfisted pigs trotters that's breaking 'em :rolleyes:
 
I bought one from Dongoshaft last year, think that were Lucas and it's still going ok. Maybe it's yer hamfisted pigs trotters that's breaking 'em :rolleyes:
This was from Bingocraft too, they’re open again next Monday. Might see if they can do me a deal on a Sh!tpart special, at least most of the Sh!tpart stuff has a 3 year warranty.
 
This was from Bingocraft too, they’re open again next Monday. Might see if they can do me a deal on a Sh!tpart special, at least most of the Sh!tpart stuff has a 3 year warranty.

Yeah I read that on their website. I note it's all preorder stuff so no browsing that three for square showroom :D
 
What's failing on them?
I fitted a new Lucas one but it was many years ago(14 at a guess) and still going strong but I did fit relays for the headlamps during the rebuild of my 110 at the same time.
Weather switch quality was better then or my relays are giving it an easier time I dunno.
 
Deffo worth pulling it and cleaning the contacts first, though I suspect you’ve already attempted this. Think the one I bought from Dingodollars was about 38 quid.
 
Yeah I read that on their website. I note it's all preorder stuff so no browsing that three for square showroom :D
Damn! I was going to look at those anodised purple gear knobs they’ve had in the glass cabinet for the last 7 years.
 
What's failing on them?
I fitted a new Lucas one but it was many years ago(14 at a guess) and still going strong but I did fit relays for the headlamps during the rebuild of my 110 at the same time.
Weather switch quality was better then or my relays are giving it an easier time I dunno.
Last one was full beam mechanism, this one now doesn’t indicate right unless I pull the stalk down about halfway ( or only put it up to halfway ), even then it’ll then stop indicating when I begin turning and then self-cancel before I’ve finished the manoeuvre. I know those blue rings are a pain and I will disassemble the thing at the weekend, but they just never seem to work right for too long!
 
Sounds like the blue ring has moved or you’ve busted a tab off it. Mines the same I have to keep pushing it down to turn right. It’s on my list of jobs, about page 12 :D
 
Does anyone actually make/supply a decent switch unit that actually functions properly out of the box and stays functioning for more than a couple of years? My last two have been Lucas and both haven’t lasted 2 years. I know they’re a simple, crap design, but surely they’re meant to last a bit longer?
Buy a second hand one from an old 90/110. My 1985 90 indicator is still working fine on all functions (touch wood). Early ones had bullet connectors, later ones went to spades so you might have to make an adapter or cut and solder the loom.
 
It’s the side/headlamp switch that keeps failing on my 110 TD5, it just can’t take the current through the cheap connectors and the plastic eventually melts.
On our 90 someone had fitted upgraded headlamps with a relay, and the switch never gave any trouble on that.
 
Proper p!ssing me off now. Had it apart this morning, nothing obvious wrong, everything lined up as is should be. However, the indicator would then come on with the slightest upward movement of the stalk (as if indicating right), literally 1-2mm would set it off, it would then stop indicating if the wheel would get turned further, then it would just self-cancel. Something’s fooked inside the switch, is there a spring inside the assembly? Maybe that’s broken?
Just going to order a new, cheap one. I’ll take the old one apart and investigate.
 
The switches arnt the problem, they are built like tanks and can handle the amps they are designed for and then some, the problem is a poorly maintained electrical system. Measure your voltage at the bulbs, that will tell you why your switches are burning out.
 
Proper p!ssing me off now. Had it apart this morning, nothing obvious wrong, everything lined up as is should be. However, the indicator would then come on with the slightest upward movement of the stalk (as if indicating right), literally 1-2mm would set it off, it would then stop indicating if the wheel would get turned further, then it would just self-cancel. Something’s fooked inside the switch, is there a spring inside the assembly? Maybe that’s broken?
Just going to order a new, cheap one. I’ll take the old one apart and investigate.

They operate on a spring and ball bearing from memory, pull it apart (bend tabs), clean it and button it back up, I did mine a few years back and it worked better than a new one!
 
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They operate on a spring and ball bearing from memory, pull it apart (bend tabs), clean it and button it back up, I did mine a few years back and it worked better than a new one!
Did you remove the metal cover plate by removing these two screws? I started to undo them but stopped, as I didn’t want a spring escaping and no indicators.
 

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