When I bought my latest td5 the seller said to me that unless you start the car within x amount of seconds of using the fob to unlock the car it automatically immobilises itself.
So after so long of being parked up without being locked and then unlocked the car will need the fob unlock button pressing to disarm the immobiliser before I can start it.
Why is this set like this? Can I alter it with nanocom? My last td5 never behaved in this way.

The D2 is fitted with a fairly sophisticated security system. This "timed" action of the passive immobiliser is dealt with in your Owner's Handbook. I don't think that this particular facility can be disabled, but as long as the system is functioning correctly it should not cause you any difficulties:-

Ahhhhhh excellent,thank you.that bit where it says the genuine handset key inserted..........my ign key is a blank key as it’s different from the door barrel for some reason unknown to me.So I unlock with a fob which can key open the door barrel but will NOT fit the ign barrel.so in an ideal world I’d like there to be only one key like normal,with a spare for my mrs-I only have the one set currently.

andy85 said:

Ahhhhhh excellent,thank you.that bit where it says the genuine handset key inserted..........my ign key is a blank key as it’s different from the door barrel for some reason unknown to me.So I unlock with a fob which can key open the door barrel but will NOT fit the ign barrel.so in an ideal world I’d like there to be only one key like normal,with a spare for my mrs-I only have the one set currently.

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The difference in the keys you have is probably because at some time in the past the ignition lock barrel suffered from a well known failure where the internals get so worn that the key would no longer turn in the lock and the ignition barrel was changed.

The fob with the electronic workings has a little circuit in it which interacts with a loop of wire in the ignition lock surround which tells the passive immobiliser that the correct key has been inserted in the lock.

For correct operation of the system you would really need to get a key cut with the correct blade for you ignition lock and a fob case attached so that you can transfer the electronics over from the original. You can then just keep the original key for emergencies should you ever need to use the EKA.

Alternatively you could get a complete new lock set which would be matching locks for both the door and ignition with keys, or get the driver's door lock to operate using the ignition key blade.

As long as the fobs are programmed to the BCU and you can unlock with the fob no matter what key you are using the condition is that the fob must be close to the ignition and if it's a D2 fob not a Rover 75 one you dont need to unlock to start it while it's already unlocked cos it will be remobilised by the passive coil when you turn ignition on(as well explained in the text quoted by @brian47) ... also the passive immobiliser can be disabled with dedicated tester