discool
Well-Known Member
The ECU can be see at the side of glovebox after removal of the black panel beneath , it's coloured green to distinguish from the other ECUs in that area. It's not prone to damp but if water has ever entered the vehicle in that area, then you will soon behaving a load of electrical.trouble.
The company called RemoteKey do a 24 hour service in providing a replacement fob and with the loan of programmer should u find you require a replace fob... or send them the ECU and fob to check. All the info is on their site. But ideally u need to get the disco recovered from the car park first.
If you can get access into the vehicle both immobiliser circuits, starting and fuel, can be bypassed with just two bits of wire and a 12v supply, but a bit vehicle electrical knowledge of the disco is required to do that.
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Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
I used to have this problem. I found sometimes that disconnecting the car battery and leaving it disconnected for about 20 minutes. Then reconnect and the fob would work again, sometimes I would have to press one of the buttons rapidly and repeatedly until a door locked.
Col
Col
discool
Well-Known Member
Something you don't know then, that after disconnecting and reconnecting the vehicle or fob battery is the fob can lose its synchronisation, just re synchronised the the fob by pressing the LOCK button on the fob at least four times.
The information is in the owners handbook.
Sent from my iPad Air on a train
The information is in the owners handbook.
Sent from my iPad Air on a train
OP:- I feel for you. This:-
is the way forward - get it home and sort it out there. This is why we are in the AA too - what you have spent on carparks and uber would, sadly, have paid for AA membership more than once.
Worth ringing the AA ( or the motoring organisation of your choice ) and seeing if they will help you if you join - I know they will sometimes.....
Good luck.
is the way forward - get it home and sort it out there. This is why we are in the AA too - what you have spent on carparks and uber would, sadly, have paid for AA membership more than once.
Worth ringing the AA ( or the motoring organisation of your choice ) and seeing if they will help you if you join - I know they will sometimes.....
Good luck.
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
@NickelLandy if you're still not getting anywhere today and a tow is feasible to get you somewhere more suited PM me your contact number and exact location and we'll see if LZIR can help you out.
discomania
Well-Known Member
I have sent him a PM about how to get it going, but he will need someone to tow start it so he can drive it home. A lot easier to drive it home under it's own steam but will need some strong guys and a big push or a tow!
Hi all.sorry for buttin in.iv got the same prob with my disco1 300tdi auto 98.i stopped at petrol station.fueled up got back in.emob light on key light on want tern over fob wont work.got it recovered home.maybe interference at petrol.nope still nothing.trieda couple of bits.nope.took my fob to mates garage.fob f....ked.towed car to mates garage.got new fob.wont communicate.read up about spyder.pulled dash apart.cant find it anywhere.not very happy at this point.found green box.had it checked.fine.found no earth to box.now central locking works.emmobiliser light key light goes out.turns over.wont fire.no diesel to injectors.fitted new fuel cut off solanoid on pump.still wont start.anybody got any idears please.thanks
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
has it got fuel from lift pump
discomania
Well-Known Member
I think the best thing to do when these Disco's develop this fault it to bypass the lot.
Before I owned my Disco the spider was bypassed as the starter feed was not working but it could be bump started - anyway, many years later it developed the issue on the FIP solenoid feed. My engine would turn over, so I sat down with the wiring diagrams and found an ignition switched AND starting position live feed. I found an SRS circuit would be live in run/start position so it was perfect, it was uninterrupted too. On the fuse board under the steering wheel and there is male spade terminal, this is on the SRS fuse, I didn't have SRS so didn't mind taking this feed. This was wired in through an existing grommet on the bulkhead up to the FIP as stock looking as possible with black sleeve etc. and worked like that for the rest of my ownership, I am certain it will still be like that as I know it is still driving about. This saved taking the whole dash to bits and took me about 15 minutes to fit, although the research with huge piles of wiring diagrams printed off took me a while!
Before I owned my Disco the spider was bypassed as the starter feed was not working but it could be bump started - anyway, many years later it developed the issue on the FIP solenoid feed. My engine would turn over, so I sat down with the wiring diagrams and found an ignition switched AND starting position live feed. I found an SRS circuit would be live in run/start position so it was perfect, it was uninterrupted too. On the fuse board under the steering wheel and there is male spade terminal, this is on the SRS fuse, I didn't have SRS so didn't mind taking this feed. This was wired in through an existing grommet on the bulkhead up to the FIP as stock looking as possible with black sleeve etc. and worked like that for the rest of my ownership, I am certain it will still be like that as I know it is still driving about. This saved taking the whole dash to bits and took me about 15 minutes to fit, although the research with huge piles of wiring diagrams printed off took me a while!
