awlb · Feb 20, 2022

Hi everyone -

I'm wondering if it is possible to replace part #2 (circled, image 1) without removing the entire ignition cylinder assembly. Appears that one of the connections broke off and the two wires which were attached (image 2, inside green circle) are no longer attached to the switch where the connection has broken off (image 3, red arrow).

Since the connection broke, turn indicators and all engine-related warning lights and gauges stopped working. Starter DOES work, as do headlights, fog lights, hazard lights --- basically all the things that would work without your key being in the ignition.

Any way to replace this broken part without removing the entire assembly, drilling out the pins, etc.?

Thanks in advance, appreciate the input.

wireman · Feb 21, 2022

It might be possible, looks like it would be a pig of a job. It would all depend on whether you can access and depress the locking pin(s) that hold the switch to the barrel.

miktdish · Feb 21, 2022

You would need to take the lock off the column. There are two wee grub screws holding the 'switch' in (you can just see one on your pic).
That big brown wire is permanantl live, disconnect the battery first...

tottot · Feb 21, 2022

+1 on the above, did mine in situ. Bit of a fiddle but doable.

awlb · Feb 24, 2022

miktdish said:
You would need to take the lock off the column. There are two wee grub screws holding the 'switch' in (you can just see one on your pic).
That big brown wire is permanantl live, disconnect the battery first...

Will do, battery is disconnected. New switch and shear bolts (just in case) are on their way. I should have something to work on over the weekend whilst we are being buried in snow. Should get 8" overnight and another 8" tomorrow.
You said "There are two wee grub screws holding the 'switch' in (you can just see one on your pic).".... are you talking about the little spot on the lower left of the pic that I've circled in RED?
I've got to get some better reference manuals, and a parts book, I thought the ones I had were enough but hey, what do I know!
Thanks!

awlb · Feb 24, 2022

tottot said:
+1 on the above, did mine in situ. Bit of a fiddle but doable.

I'm going to try to do the same. Wish me luck.

cappers · Feb 24, 2022

awlb said:
Will do, battery is disconnected. New switch and shear bolts (just in case) are on their way. I should have something to work on over the weekend whilst we are being buried in snow. Should get 8" overnight and another 8" tomorrow.
You said "There are two wee grub screws holding the 'switch' in (you can just see one on your pic).".... are you talking about the little spot on the lower left of the pic that I've circled in RED?
I've got to get some better reference manuals, and a parts book, I thought the ones I had were enough but hey, what do I know!
Thanks!

View attachment 259806

Yep that's one of them, the other is 180 deg other side.
I did this last year, the tag for the main power feed snapped off, pain of a job, fiddly but doable. Not dropping the tiny grubs screws is part of the challenge. The barrel might also be quite tight in the holder.

awlb · Feb 24, 2022

cappers said:
Yep that's one of them, the other is 180 deg other side.
I did this last year, the tag for the main power feed snapped off, pain of a job, fiddly but doable. Not dropping the tiny grubs screws is part of the challenge. The barrel might also be quite tight in the holder.

Will keep you posted on how it goes.

miktdish · Feb 25, 2022

awlb said:
<snip>
You said "There are two wee grub screws holding the 'switch' in (you can just see one on your pic).".... are you talking about the little spot on the lower left of the pic that I've circled in RED?

Yes

awlb · Feb 25, 2022

New switch (for best case scenario) as well as two new shear bolts (for less-than-best case scenario) arrived today. Tomorrow, let's see if we can get those little set screws out and swap the switch out without removing the entire ignition assembly.

Hicap phill · Feb 26, 2022

awlb said:
New switch (for best case scenario) as well as two new shear bolts (for less-than-best case scenario) arrived today. Tomorrow, let's see if we can get those little set screws out and swap the switch out without removing the entire ignition assembly.

Make sure the internal rod don’t fall out

Flossie · Feb 26, 2022

I've done mine in situ but it was many years ago, I think the one screw is very difficult to get at? I may have removed the binnicle as well as the shroud to improve access, possibly the steering wheel too but mine comes off easily.
I think I would knock the shear bolts round and drop the switch if I had to do it again.

kevstar · Feb 26, 2022

Flossie said:
I've done mine in situ but it was many years ago, I think the one screw is very difficult to get at? I may have removed the binnicle as well as the shroud to improve access, possibly the steering wheel too but mine comes off easily.
I think I would knock the shear bolts round and drop the switch if I had to do it again.

Ive done a few of these its doable in situ if you've got wimins hands, I find it easier to take off the
unit off.

cappers · Feb 26, 2022

kevstar said:
Ive done a few of these its doable in situ if you've got wimins hands, I find it easier to take off the
unit off.

Maybe I've got 'wimins hands' but I changed the barrel without dismantling the whole assembly. Steering wheel and instrument binnacle off for room. The hard bit was accessing the rear grub screw and not dropping it; a magnetic wand and a bright torch helped

awlb · Mar 5, 2022

kevstar said:
Ive done a few of these its doable in situ if you've got wimins hands, I find it easier to take off the
unit off.

I enlisted the wife, actually, b/c of the close quarters and we also used a magnet to keep from losing the little screws.

awlb · Mar 5, 2022

Managed to get the switch out without having to remove the entire ignition. The two grub screws turned out to be small Philips-head which an eye glass repair kit screwdriver fit perfectly. Just a lot of tear-down of the dash to get there.

Question on the reassembly --- is there an ignition position that is best to get the right alignment? I adjusted the new switch to match the position of the old switch (on the back side of the image in the photo, the part that rotates) but the alignment of the two small screws is off by an RCH, and they just won't quite seat and grip. There are scuff marks on the edge of the case where the screws are rubbing on the metal while trying to be screwed in, but just slightly misaligned.

Given that the switch is prone to failure, I don't want to fiddle with the install any more than I have to.

Thanks for the input so far!

Welcome and suggestions and thanks for the feedback so far.

awlb · Mar 5, 2022

Hicap phill said:
Make sure the internal rod don’t fall out

Thanks, didn't know to look for that so appreciate the suggestion. Managed to not lose any parts during disassembly (that I know of)!

miktdish · Mar 6, 2022

Probably been out before, both of the two i've done in the past were grub screws...
As long as they screw in, go for it.

awlb · Mar 6, 2022

miktdish said:
Probably been out before, both of the two i've done in the past were grub screws...
As long as they screw in, go for it.

The screws fit into the switch fine when it’s out of the ignition but they just don’t want to thread in when installed. Going to try and find those grubs screws and try again.

Archy1234 · Mar 10, 2022

That looks tricky!! I had a problem with my ignition barrel. The little gromit that fits around the spindle cracked and the spindle just turned in it without turning the switch. Took me ages to work out the problem. the gromit was metal and I couldn't get a replacement. I glued it back together but never really trusted it not to crack again. Hence the new barrel and switch. I found it easier to get the whole thing off of the column than to tackle those grub screws again!

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