Many had a condensation problem, it caused arcing on the rear of the dash PCB, this highlighted any dodgy soldering ...

Easy fix really ...


Just watched this video, so many questions.......
What is the liquid he used when cleaning it?
What is the cloudy liquid in the syringe that he made two lines with?
What was the first tool he used?
And what was he sodlering in two lines?
What damage did he see, as it isn't shown?

I think this is the sort of vid useful to those who already know what they are doing with PCBs, i.e. not me!
So glad I don't have this problem.
I saw a similar one on replacing capacitors on a sewing machine's PCBs which was much simpler to follow.
And does anyone without a micrscope have a chance of fixing the fault?

I have an engine ECU that was remapped for my Disco 2 that got dropped. I gave it, via a son in law, to a lady engineer who had one of those microscopes, and she couldn't see the problem with it, but it deffo is bust!
I try so hard to understnad electronics but get so slowly very nearly nowhere all the time.
But thanks for putting it up. I even have proper tools for removing the hands off the clocks, as I do watch and clock repairs sometimes!
 
Just watched this video, so many questions.......
What is the liquid he used when cleaning it?
What is the cloudy liquid in the syringe that he made two lines with?
What was the first tool he used?
And what was he sodlering in two lines?
What damage did he see, as it isn't shown?

I think this is the sort of vid useful to those who already know what they are doing with PCBs, i.e. not me!
So glad I don't have this problem.
I saw a similar one on replacing capacitors on a sewing machine's PCBs which was much simpler to follow.
And does anyone without a micrscope have a chance of fixing the fault?

I have an engine ECU that was remapped for my Disco 2 that got dropped. I gave it, via a son in law, to a lady engineer who had one of those microscopes, and she couldn't see the problem with it, but it deffo is bust!
I try so hard to understnad electronics but get so slowly very nearly nowhere all the time.
But thanks for putting it up. I even have proper tools for removing the hands off the clocks, as I do watch and clock repairs sometimes!
IPA was poss the cleaning agent
 
May as well do the haldex while I'm here.

Big steak pie for dinner once this is all done.

All in all regarding focus the dash was a doddle compared to my car now.

What I've spent in sorting the focus out in 5 years compared to now is loose change.

Currently my fuel tank is on a work bench the exhaust is off and the diff is disconnected
 
Just watched this video, so many questions.......
What is the liquid he used when cleaning it?
What is the cloudy liquid in the syringe that he made two lines with?
What was the first tool he used?
And what was he sodlering in two lines?
What damage did he see, as it isn't shown?

I think this is the sort of vid useful to those who already know what they are doing with PCBs, i.e. not me!
So glad I don't have this problem.
I saw a similar one on replacing capacitors on a sewing machine's PCBs which was much simpler to follow.
And does anyone without a micrscope have a chance of fixing the fault?

I have an engine ECU that was remapped for my Disco 2 that got dropped. I gave it, via a son in law, to a lady engineer who had one of those microscopes, and she couldn't see the problem with it, but it deffo is bust!
I try so hard to understnad electronics but get so slowly very nearly nowhere all the time.
But thanks for putting it up. I even have proper tools for removing the hands off the clocks, as I do watch and clock repairs sometimes!

First learn to solder properly, learn what a 'good' joint looks like, how the solder flows, what a 'cold' joint looks like and why a joint or wire will not 'take' the solder ...

Start with some lengths of plain uninsulated wire, 15mm long, solder them together to make a square 15mm X 15mm X 15mm ...
That'll keep you up to speed for a bit ...
 
First learn to solder properly, learn what a 'good' joint looks like, how the solder flows, what a 'cold' joint looks like and why a joint or wire will not 'take' the solder ...

Start with some lengths of plain uninsulated wire, 15mm long, solder them together to make a square 15mm X 15mm X 15mm ...
That'll keep you up to speed for a bit ...
My previous soldering experience has been making joints in wires when making up looms when building kit cars. No one has ever shown me how to do it, so back in those days you had to get it from books.
The sorts of cars I was working on didn't have PCBs.
So to learn all the stuff in your first para I'll have to Google all those terms and take it from there.
As it is, even now, I could make up the square you mentioned, It'd work and conduct electric. I always used to check each joint with a MM to make sure it conducted properly before applying the heatshrink.
But what I know, use of flux, etc, isn't much different to my knowledge of soldering in plumbing! 🤣 At least I can get that right although I don't enjoy it.
 
I was told a few years ago by the chap that repaired the dash issue that was causing my 06 Focus to go into limp mode that much of the issue was the EU ruled that makers should use no or low lead solder in their production.
After a number of years mostly the naughty,s rules were changed.
 
First learn to solder properly, learn what a 'good' joint looks like, how the solder flows, what a 'cold' joint looks like and why a joint or wire will not 'take' the solder ...

Start with some lengths of plain uninsulated wire, 15mm long, solder them together to make a square 15mm X 15mm X 15mm ...
That'll keep you up to speed for a bit ...
Have had a look at a couple, this one is better.


(This for numpties BTW. I was amazed to find that somehow I already did most of this, but still learned a few things. Thanks for making me have a dig for this stuff @Dippypud . :) :) :) :) :))
 

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